Not following you there???

I also use my dyno sheets to figure when I should be shifting. Horsepower is just part of the equation though, looking at your graph you've lost a lot of torque past 6K rpm. The torque is whats going to give you that "pull". A tuned rev-up can pull decently at the top end due to the VVT, not so much for a DE. If your talking about an 1/8 mile than staying in 3rd is best due to what I previously mentioned.

Judging from your numbers, I'm assuming you have a DE. The valve train isn't the only thing you have to worry about since the oil pumps suck on those engines too, which is why just about everyone who goes FI upgrades the pump. Those with N/A builds that are shooting for higher RPM do the same. When the pump can't keep the oil flowing with the RPM, thats when you have problems. And your curve does not support it when your dropping power past 6500rpm.

 

Your right I know nothing. Shifting at stock points nets me ..14.9@93 shifting at 6900 14.6@97 ...not my first rodeo. 6800_7000 is safe on a na de. Ive tuned my fair share of vqs.

 

#1 those are pretty bad times.
#2 its very irresponsible of you to come on here and say you tune for XX shop then give advice that could potentially wreck someone's motor..

 

Following your logic, every engine should rev 500rpm higher than redline just because you need a faster trap speed.

If you want to do this to your car then that's your deal. But I wouldn't encourage others to do the same.

And you shouldn't be overrevving your Subaru either. All you need is a little knock at 7500rpm (beyond redline) and your engine is gone.

 

Seymore4 you realize before you can even get on the rollers at most shops you sign your life away? I'm saying ~7000 rev limit on a DE Motor isn't a big deal for a na setup. It's not like I bang the rev limiter daily. If memory serves me correct the Uprev canned tunes are at 6800 or 6900. So I have mine set at 7050 (Just checked). I run it out to that only at the track.

These motors are not made of glass.

 

Keithk831, Thats not what I said, What I said is based on where the power comes in and goes out and gearing. It's not like every build actually benefits from revving it a touch further. If your car is trapping 110 and your at the top of 4th and your valvetrain can keep up bumping it a little isn't the end of the world. Also if your tunes solid you should not be knocking.

 

The EJ25 engine has been said to be "made of glass". I think you're right in the sense that if you're 1 or 2 seconds from the 1/4 mile line then it's sometimes good to keep it in gear. But not on an engine that isn't made for it, or that loses power beyond that point. I don't even have a ton of power after 6000rpm, let alone 7000. The powerband on these cars is decent above 3500rpm. Shifting at or close to redline isn't going to hurt. And it's certainly not going to hurt you by 0.3 seconds in the 1/4 mile. Other factors were involved there...I guarantee it.

 

Jesus christ, I ****ing tested it myself at the track. and the EJ25 is far from glass a 4cyl that can make 450awhp I don't exactly consider glass. my 91 2.2NA Block held together @360awhp.(135CRANKHP stock).


I can't find my slips but my 60's were exactly the same. high 2.2's. The time to shift hurts.

 

Uprev base tunes come with a stock rev limiter

 

The Base maps that the protuners use is not bumped , But I recently dynoed a uprev canned run and it's rev limiter was bumped.

 

protuners do not have canned base tunes, they have to create their own. If you were a protuner you would know this...

etune customers can request a higher rev limit if they want, that's probably what you experienced