Osiris Dyno tune results on a 2005 A/T Coupe
#17
#18
He told me that I was running allitle lean but it should richn up when I drive it.. BS
Last edited by JJSOLON; 06-19-2011 at 08:11 PM.
#21
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Ok, I'll break it down for you so you can understand how your engine / ecu work.
The MAF reads the amount of air flowing through the intake and tells the ECU "hello mtr fkr, this what I have" Ecu tells Injectors "beeeoch, spray this much fuel at this much pace", ECU has to be programmed to say to spark advance "speed this shhh!t up" if KNOCK sensor says, wooaaahhh nicccuuhh, thats too much, the ECU pulls back spark advance, ADDS more fuel (you lose power).
So again to reiterate.
MAF calculates air flow
ECU determines how much fuel is needed
ECU adds timing (spark advance)
Knock determines ping, and sends signal to ECU to pull timing or continue with aggressive timing.
#24
Your car runs on a Mass AIR FLOW... (MAF)
Ok, I'll break it down for you so you can understand how your engine / ecu work.
The MAF reads the amount of air flowing through the intake and tells the ECU "hello mtr fkr, this what I have" Ecu tells Injectors "beeeoch, spray this much fuel at this much pace", ECU has to be programmed to say to spark advance "speed this shhh!t up" if KNOCK sensor says, wooaaahhh nicccuuhh, thats too much, the ECU pulls back spark advance, ADDS more fuel (you lose power).
So again to reiterate.
MAF calculates air flow
ECU determines how much fuel is needed
ECU adds timing (spark advance)
Knock determines ping, and sends signal to ECU to pull timing or continue with aggressive timing.
Ok, I'll break it down for you so you can understand how your engine / ecu work.
The MAF reads the amount of air flowing through the intake and tells the ECU "hello mtr fkr, this what I have" Ecu tells Injectors "beeeoch, spray this much fuel at this much pace", ECU has to be programmed to say to spark advance "speed this shhh!t up" if KNOCK sensor says, wooaaahhh nicccuuhh, thats too much, the ECU pulls back spark advance, ADDS more fuel (you lose power).
So again to reiterate.
MAF calculates air flow
ECU determines how much fuel is needed
ECU adds timing (spark advance)
Knock determines ping, and sends signal to ECU to pull timing or continue with aggressive timing.
#27
- power seems low considering your mods. Dynojets aren't known for reading low.
- your graph shouldn't be so bumpy, particularly with smoothing set to 5
- can you confirm the bottom scale is accurate...shouldn't torque and horsepower cross at 5252 rpms?
I recommend you get your money back and go to a different tuner.
- your graph shouldn't be so bumpy, particularly with smoothing set to 5
- can you confirm the bottom scale is accurate...shouldn't torque and horsepower cross at 5252 rpms?
I recommend you get your money back and go to a different tuner.
^+1
#28
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
I'll chime in here a little bit just with the experience I have with a similar platform. I ended up getting a COBB tune done last year in about March or so in a pretty central elevation (comparable to that of Missouri) with, as mentioned, pretty similar mods- spacer, intake, Z-tube, Stillen exhaust, HFCs... and I think my numbers were almost identical. I don't have a copy of my dyno sheet but suffice to say the numbers are about the same. There's a lot to say about whether or not a lot of those breathing mods actually add anything- frankly I think the brain automatically equates extra noise / aggressive exhaust note with speed. Not the case... as both mine and your car have proven.
Being in the 1000-2000 foot elevation range doesn't help and neither will warm air if memory serves. Hello sea level.
Anyway... the AT is a bit disappointing in terms of what it puts into the ground and what is lost between the engine and the wheels but that's where we're at. I had an pro tuner do some dyno runs on my new build with the turbos (pre-BUILT blocks) and we were getting a lot of the real messy stuff up top as well. I think what he'd said about that was the tranny was actually slipping under load so he just needed to go into his tuner kit and tighten up the bindings electronically. Unfortunately I can't qualify that statement because it was the next run where we decided to build the block / tranny. I'll let you kind of fill in the blanks on that one. If a guy was more oriented to the engine side of Osiris I could see where he may not have polished it up to smooth out those lines. Then again, I might just be talking out of my @ss. My memory isn't as good as it used to be.
Anyway man- some pretty smart guys in here suggested to me that before I went and got all crazy spending a ton of money on NA mods I was going to end up selling anyway to sit on the car for a bit and put some money in the bank to spend on an inevitable upgrade. If we're going to be running shop to shop, sometimes driving for hours, and spending this kind of money over what... 20-40 expected HP... You KNOW at some point you're going to be lounging in the FI forums...
There are probably better tuners out there- there's always someone who knows more and can do better... I don't see a transgo in your mod list and while I know it's more of a shift-speed mod it made a HELL of a difference on my car when I was NA. In fact, it was almost the difference between me going FI and not- until I sat in an FI car and found out what REAL power was.
When the guys were building my tranny I asked them what kind of shape it was in. They asked me how it had felt beforehand and I said... I don't know- felt okay to me. They asked me how badly I felt it slipping and I said I didn't feel it slipping. The guy kind of scoffed at me and said with no equivocation at all "Oh, it was slipping."
So that tells me that there's a good chance some wear and tear on your AT is being read on the dyno sheet. And no, I'm not a car guy but I'm familiar with deductive reasoning.
Keep us posted on your decisions!
Being in the 1000-2000 foot elevation range doesn't help and neither will warm air if memory serves. Hello sea level.
Anyway... the AT is a bit disappointing in terms of what it puts into the ground and what is lost between the engine and the wheels but that's where we're at. I had an pro tuner do some dyno runs on my new build with the turbos (pre-BUILT blocks) and we were getting a lot of the real messy stuff up top as well. I think what he'd said about that was the tranny was actually slipping under load so he just needed to go into his tuner kit and tighten up the bindings electronically. Unfortunately I can't qualify that statement because it was the next run where we decided to build the block / tranny. I'll let you kind of fill in the blanks on that one. If a guy was more oriented to the engine side of Osiris I could see where he may not have polished it up to smooth out those lines. Then again, I might just be talking out of my @ss. My memory isn't as good as it used to be.
Anyway man- some pretty smart guys in here suggested to me that before I went and got all crazy spending a ton of money on NA mods I was going to end up selling anyway to sit on the car for a bit and put some money in the bank to spend on an inevitable upgrade. If we're going to be running shop to shop, sometimes driving for hours, and spending this kind of money over what... 20-40 expected HP... You KNOW at some point you're going to be lounging in the FI forums...
There are probably better tuners out there- there's always someone who knows more and can do better... I don't see a transgo in your mod list and while I know it's more of a shift-speed mod it made a HELL of a difference on my car when I was NA. In fact, it was almost the difference between me going FI and not- until I sat in an FI car and found out what REAL power was.
When the guys were building my tranny I asked them what kind of shape it was in. They asked me how it had felt beforehand and I said... I don't know- felt okay to me. They asked me how badly I felt it slipping and I said I didn't feel it slipping. The guy kind of scoffed at me and said with no equivocation at all "Oh, it was slipping."
So that tells me that there's a good chance some wear and tear on your AT is being read on the dyno sheet. And no, I'm not a car guy but I'm familiar with deductive reasoning.
Keep us posted on your decisions!
#30
So I spoke with Jared from uprev via email today and this was his response.
Jared:
From the dyno charts it doesn't look too far off. It's a LITTLE on the lean side above 13.0, but nowhere near the danger zone yet.
Hard to say on the ignition since I can't run the car first hand, but the power gains are more that what would be expected from slight AFR changes so I imagine that the ignition is in the right place.
I responded to his email
Hello Jared, So do you think its worth having it retuned? If so would you be able to get me in next Friday or Saturday? I will have to drive down to your location. So I'm just trying to plan in advance.
Thank you for getting back to me
He emailed me back
I doubt that we'd be able to get much more out of it, but we'd be willing to give it a try if you want. Next week is no good, but we could do a week from next Friday if that works for you.
We should be able to dump the tune that is on there and only have to spend about an hour trying to retune it. Since you already have the license you'd be looking at ~$125 for the dyno time
I responded
I'm going to go ahead and have you retune my car. For me its more about piece of mind because I had a pretty bad experience at the tuner here in Mo. Friday July 8th will work for me. I have about an 8 half hour drive to get to Austin so I will probably come down on the 7th. Can we set something up for the morning? I will be driving back to Mo. that same day. Also will you be able to put the cruise control setting in like anti theft,Valet and maybe a stock setting? Once again thank you for getting back to me..
I'm hoping all goes well and at least when I leave there I will know that it was done right.. I will post results when I get back from Austin. Thanks for all the input guys. I love this site because people are very helpful..
Jared:
From the dyno charts it doesn't look too far off. It's a LITTLE on the lean side above 13.0, but nowhere near the danger zone yet.
Hard to say on the ignition since I can't run the car first hand, but the power gains are more that what would be expected from slight AFR changes so I imagine that the ignition is in the right place.
I responded to his email
Hello Jared, So do you think its worth having it retuned? If so would you be able to get me in next Friday or Saturday? I will have to drive down to your location. So I'm just trying to plan in advance.
Thank you for getting back to me
He emailed me back
I doubt that we'd be able to get much more out of it, but we'd be willing to give it a try if you want. Next week is no good, but we could do a week from next Friday if that works for you.
We should be able to dump the tune that is on there and only have to spend about an hour trying to retune it. Since you already have the license you'd be looking at ~$125 for the dyno time
I responded
I'm going to go ahead and have you retune my car. For me its more about piece of mind because I had a pretty bad experience at the tuner here in Mo. Friday July 8th will work for me. I have about an 8 half hour drive to get to Austin so I will probably come down on the 7th. Can we set something up for the morning? I will be driving back to Mo. that same day. Also will you be able to put the cruise control setting in like anti theft,Valet and maybe a stock setting? Once again thank you for getting back to me..
I'm hoping all goes well and at least when I leave there I will know that it was done right.. I will post results when I get back from Austin. Thanks for all the input guys. I love this site because people are very helpful..