who has a tune?

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  #16  
Old 07-06-2012, 11:06 AM
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You could do that, I would think it'd be a lot more work tho. And you'd have to check to see just how lean it was running since you've got quite a bit of mods... I would think that you would need to add
Some fuel even to the stock map for the economy map. Detonation is not your friend lol
 
  #17  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:36 PM
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I agree lol, i never did get my cruising AFRs done yet i think im perfect on all the WOT stuff. Averaging in the 13s sometimes high 12s.
 
  #18  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:38 PM
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This is the part that confused me a bit as much of the tune is based on a margin of load values- whether you're in a power map or an Eco one like what seymore is saying if you trim down your low load sections for cruising and beef up your high load side for the spray and pray sessions... Don't you accomplish the same as having two separate maps? I guess having an Eco Map would help being low(Er) on fuel all the way through because then you wouldn't hammer on it at all which- if you're running tons of mods or FI- would gobble fuel.

So other than that is having a streamline, efficient power tune practical- or do you need to have more fuel dumped at all load levels in a power map to help keep things quenched for the upcoming high boost / high load condition?
 
  #19  
Old 07-06-2012, 02:42 PM
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Stock, dd, 100 octane, and valet. I don't understand how some guys have different maps for power and fuel economy. If you tuned for efficiency, you should have both, no?
 
  #20  
Old 07-06-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
This is the part that confused me a bit as much of the tune is based on a margin of load values- whether you're in a power map or an Eco one like what seymore is saying if you trim down your low load sections for cruising and beef up your high load side for the spray and pray sessions... Don't you accomplish the same as having two separate maps? I guess having an Eco Map would help being low(Er) on fuel all the way through because then you wouldn't hammer on it at all which- if you're running tons of mods or FI- would gobble fuel.

So other than that is having a streamline, efficient power tune practical- or do you need to have more fuel dumped at all load levels in a power map to help keep things quenched for the upcoming high boost / high load condition?
Well based off of stock you would pretty much have to add fuel in just about everywhere in the load range/rpm range with the exception of idle of course. But lets say you had a base map to go off that was already pretty close (which i did) then you only need to make small adjustments here and there. For example with my base map i was given i was already pretty close in all the RPM range at WOT with the exception of like 2200-3000 rpm i was still running a little lean at WOT so all i had to do is dial in some more fuel. At first i dialed in WAY to much and went from 14afrs to 11s lol. So i took out almost as much as i put in and was a little richer but still on the lean side. But long story short just do little by little adjustments and youl dial it in.
 
  #21  
Old 07-06-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
Stock, dd, 100 octane, and valet. I don't understand how some guys have different maps for power and fuel economy. If you tuned for efficiency, you should have both, no?
actually, efficiency can be another type of map...jack of all trades, master of none.
 
  #22  
Old 07-06-2012, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by seymore4
None of the maps come with limiters or anything. When you start a tune everything is stock in the rom file, whoever is making the tune manually changes everything on each map. That means setting the rev limiter on each map.
Typically I recommend:
1) power
2) economy (same as power but leaner under 3000rpm and low load-- above that defaults to power
3) stock
4) valet or "GF mode" 4000rpm limit and 70mph
5) anti theft (will barely run)

There's no reason to NOT leave it in the tuned map all the time, the performance map is optimized for performance and efficiency and thus is where your car will run the best.

But back to the rev limiter bit, you can set the rev limiter to whatever you want on all 5 maps. If you're getting it tuned somewhere just specify how you want it set.
i believe 2 and 3 are switched. at least that's why i was told when i got tuned at church's.
 
  #23  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jiggawuah
i believe 2 and 3 are switched. at least that's why i was told when i got tuned at church's.
It's up to the tuner to set them, it's not a preset thing. You could specify which maps you want where when you get tuned
 
  #24  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:05 PM
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Since i am new to this tuning and getting mine next month. What is this AFR?
 
  #25  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bluedevils95
Since i am new to this tuning and getting mine next month. What is this AFR?
Air fuel ratio. Basically measuring how much fuel you're burning. Too little is lean and that's bad. Too much is rich and that's also bad, but not quite as much .

Too lean damages things and can go boom, too rich just wastes gas
 
  #26  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:25 AM
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But a tune for performance and lean for eco is good?
 
  #27  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:35 AM
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It doesn't really hurt anything when you're not under load, IE cruising on the freeway. There's a limit to how lean you want to go however, you can't just lean it out and get 45mpg... lol
 
  #28  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:46 AM
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Lol! I just want to lean it when i drive to school or just a long cruise
 
  #29  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:53 AM
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Then I'd recommend picking up the tuner version of osiris and playing around with it and seeing just how comfortably lean you can get, a shop is going to tune very conservatively so if you're going for maximum fuel efficiency thats probably not going to cut it
 
  #30  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:59 AM
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Well ever the hfc go on, i am going to church automotive for my tune. I am just waiting on gaskets for them.
 


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