ok guys..........here it is....a little disappointment and confusion for my first dyno ....but it was 102F with 32% relative humidity and when i asked the "technician" if he had any training he said "why no, anyone can run this equipment"....it was dynojet run at Carboy in houston

i have a 2004 5at and all 3 pulls were in 4th gear........

so.......it seems that i have bone stock hp and torque numbers with about $2100 worth of performance mods.....ztube, 3/8" spacer on the intake side....headers, high flow CATS and Injen exhaust.....i am still going to get TS to reflash the ecu to "dial in" these mods.......but the dyno seems a little suspect to me.......the a/f ratio seems rich.........there is a dynopak up north at sgp racing that i am considering for a comparison.......how about some comments?

 

Shooter,
Without a stock dyno on your car, you don't know how much you actually gained. Your car could have been 215 WHP bone stock. Have you tied the ECU reset ? https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/6526-easy-ecu-resetting.html
I added an Invidia G200 exhaust and didn’t feel or hear much of a difference. I did the ECU reset- pedal method. The car shifts better, pulls harder, and the exhaust sounds better. I haven’t redyno’d the car yet with just the exhaust.
Just my .02s

 

g35strongman........i didnt pull a stock dyno.........didnt think i needed too since there should be plenty of stock runs found here and i shouldnt be that far off.........so if an average stock G is 215hp then i gained about 18hp with my bolt on mods measured on a 102 degree day............i plan on running a dyno on a dynopak next time to compare the difference between the 2 types of dynos........but i mainly ran it to get my a/f ratio curve to send to technosquare.........i want to reflash the ecu and hope to gain more torque and hp with the tuning.....

now one thing i noticed on the torque curve.........looks like i should be shifting at about 5000 rpm!........i have been running the car up to redline before....what do you think? is it more important to keep the torque from dropping off to keep the acceleration up?

 

I say take it to redline of the HP curve.
Your steadily make more power as you approach redline. Once you shift in to the next gear, you'll be in the 4,500 to 5,000 rpm range. The graph shows @ 205 HP and 215 TQ
If you shift at 5,000 the RPM will drop to the 3000 to 3500. The graph shows @ 115HP and 205 TQ

I think the TS flash also raises your rev limiter. you'll be able to pull a little more power out of the top end.

 

Your numbers look completely fine, especially the A/F. You've got to remember that both headers and high flow cats are showing minimal gains on these cars. The Z-tube is worth nothing (sounds damn good though), the catback does nothing because the stocker is perfect, the spacer gets you about 8whp, the headers about 8whp, and highflow cats MAYBE 3whp. Most stock 5AT sedans see 215whp/210wtq. Your numbers look good and solid.

As for the temps, your numbers have been corrected by the Dynojet program to compensate for the ambient conditions. However, I think your car would probably be putting down an additional 5-10whp in 50 degree weather.

Going to dyno on another machine is both pointless and a waste of money. Dynos all read a little differently. Dynos are tools, not machines to gauge bragging rights. The dyno is there to gauge your car's gains and losses from mods. It's not there to compare your numbers to Joe Blow's living 6 states away. Stick with the same dyno to reduce bias.

As for shift points, shift at redline. Calculating shift points is easy and I can already tell by your dyno that redline shifts are ideal.

 

215hp sounds right for sedans BUT he has a coupe and that is just troubling to see bc his numbers are suppose to be around 225hp (stock). The only thing I can figure is either he drives like a granny most of time and his ecu isnt use to the higher revs/load on the dyno (therefore, should reset ecu) or dynoing in 4th for AT is a bad idea. Most of the dynos I have seen for AT are in 3rd not in 4th gear pulls. Wait until it cools down more and redyno in 3rd with a reset ecu and see if u still pull the same numbers. GL

 

drive like a granny! who said that! this car is meant for spirited driving which i take every opportunity to confirm

thnks for the comments g35strongman........redline is more fun anyway!

thanks for the positive feed daveb........i have been doing a bunch of reading and know that the dyno is only a tool for comparison sakes and not for bragging rights......but the numbers should still mean something

anyway.....the machine was showing 102 degrees and 30% relative humidity and anyone who lives in houston knows it is about 80% this time of the year (i checked the weather channel and confirmed 80%)....do you know how the difference would affect the numbers? would it affect the a/f ratio? this is really what i was after (the a/f ratio).....i forwarded it to TechnoSquare for comments and have not received any yet.........

 

5 speed autos should dyno in 4th gear which is the 1:1 ratio. Looking at your dyno, looks like they let off the throttle after 6500rpm. Take it to the track to see what MPH it pulls is my suggestion.

 

shooter, I in no way meant to offend you. I just wanted to pt out that out car's ecu is set on how we drive in a daily basis. Therefore, if you babie your car then of course those dyno pulls arent really going be high bc your car wasnt ready for them.

From some of the dyno meets, the AT are dyno in 3rd and MT are in 4th (http://www.yellowg35.com/dyno1.html)

 

none taken mr_pharmD..........i understand the implications of a "granny" driver and thought a little tounge in cheek was called for

 

thae track sounds like fun ........definitely time to get her out and give it a go!

 

Mod's other than an S/C or TT are useless. The car is pretty much squeezed. I like the noise of the plenum spacer and the JWT... but look at the dyno charts, you might get a total of 10-15 whp with all those mods... tops. The 5 AT is lifeless.. a slush box as it has been called in the past.

 

Even with a coupe, I think his power levels are completely normal, especially for the conditions the car was run in. In cooler and denser air, he should see an addtional 5-8whp increase.

As for the ECU reset, IMO it's a myth. I've done the ECU reset and noticed the car felt slower after it was done, much like my 96 Maxima did when I reset the ECU. Recently I datalogged before and after the reset and noticed reduced timing and lower air flow values after the reset. That confirms to me that a ECU takes some time to select the ideal parameters for the VQ. I wish I could read A/Fs, but I'm pretty certain the car runs rich (not good) after a reset. Running rich is an initial safe guard.

Well, all autos are known as "slush boxes". That term started way back in the 1950s with the 2 speed Powerglide auto. Anyways, I'd hardly call the JATCO 5AT slushy. It has perfect gearing, a good torque coverter stall rpm, and it shifts soft/hard depending on throttle application. It's not a manual tranny, but it definitely does quite well for an auto. Look at how close the 1/4 mile performance of the 5ATs is compared to the 6MTs. On average, we're talking a mere .2 seconds and often times the autos post better times than the 6MTs.

 

asdadiow has an opinion that many can identify with.........but not all of us here are just looking for massive neck whipping increases in power....

i get off on the researching, learning, deciding, buying, anticipation........then the install......i want mods i can do myself.......i dont want to pay some mechanic to do the work........i enjoy spending time under the hood

sure i would like to make the car faster, quicker, but the cost of SC or TT is out of my reach at the moment....so i will continue to add bolt-on mods and evaluate them as i go..........the process of getting there is more fun

i wish one (1) bolt-on would really make a big difference in performance.....so far only the crank pulley did the trick for me..........all the others have contributed somewhat....no neck snapping changes can be felt with these bolts-ons i have so far.........BUT, the combination of headers, crawford CATS and Injen exhaust....sounds awesome to me

i still need to reflash the ecu to feel the benefits from the free flowing intake and exhaust mods i have bolted on....this is my next mod, unfortunately the first one i can not do myself

 

For what it's worth I think you should re-dyno... I have seen a modded coupe dyno at one shop 214... only a couple months later (w/same mods) 281! The first shop was questionable because everyone was dynoing WAY lower than expected. Climate variance was not the issue (I don’t care how ho or cold it's unlikely you will get 67hp difference).

I have similar mods that you do (minus cats & headers) and dynod 271 on dynapack) - with CAI and exhaust only I dynod 247 on dynojet.

Others have their opinion - mine is go to a different experienced shop and dyno again.