Upgrading sound while keeping headunit - advice needed
Sunil
Ok, now that I upgraded the speakers I am wondering what the next step may be
I like the sound but would like to potentially add an amp. If I am keeping the HU stock, is a line output converter even necessary if an amp has speaker level inputs? I am pretty new to audio upgrades so could use some advice here. It seems that Pioneer GM-6400F amp has speaker level inputs, or is there something else missing?
Per Pioneer: "What, you DON'T own a Pioneer headunit? Well, we won't hold it against you. In fact we'll even help you build onto your system. The GM-6400F's speaker level inputs allow you to connect your OEM unit (or any unit that doesn't have the typical RCA-type inputs) without having to buy add-on adapters. SO, the install goes faster, you save money, and you've got a Pioneer amp in your vehicle."
I like the sound but would like to potentially add an amp. If I am keeping the HU stock, is a line output converter even necessary if an amp has speaker level inputs? I am pretty new to audio upgrades so could use some advice here. It seems that Pioneer GM-6400F amp has speaker level inputs, or is there something else missing?Per Pioneer: "What, you DON'T own a Pioneer headunit? Well, we won't hold it against you. In fact we'll even help you build onto your system. The GM-6400F's speaker level inputs allow you to connect your OEM unit (or any unit that doesn't have the typical RCA-type inputs) without having to buy add-on adapters. SO, the install goes faster, you save money, and you've got a Pioneer amp in your vehicle."
Sorry for delay guys. I forgot about this thread. The following is what I ended up doing:
After replacing the door speakers as stated in the original post, I noticed incredible sound clarity, but not much bass response. To improve this, I felt I didnt need the line output converter or the amp to power the door speakers and scrapped that idea. But I did buy the Kicker sub and Pioneer amp I talked about in the first post. I also added a Stinger fixed line output converter for those. The result was incredible. It was exactly what I was looking for. A much better sounding system, not overpowering, but really nice sounding, and inexpensive. I spent about $600 total with installation. And the 10 inch sub was mounted in the cut out in the rear deck. I would highly recommend this if you want a cheaper improvement on the stock system.
After replacing the door speakers as stated in the original post, I noticed incredible sound clarity, but not much bass response. To improve this, I felt I didnt need the line output converter or the amp to power the door speakers and scrapped that idea. But I did buy the Kicker sub and Pioneer amp I talked about in the first post. I also added a Stinger fixed line output converter for those. The result was incredible. It was exactly what I was looking for. A much better sounding system, not overpowering, but really nice sounding, and inexpensive. I spent about $600 total with installation. And the 10 inch sub was mounted in the cut out in the rear deck. I would highly recommend this if you want a cheaper improvement on the stock system.
Sorry for delay guys. I forgot about this thread. The following is what I ended up doing:
After replacing the door speakers as stated in the original post, I noticed incredible sound clarity, but not much bass response. To improve this, I felt I didnt need the line output converter or the amp to power the door speakers and scrapped that idea. But I did buy the Kicker sub and Pioneer amp I talked about in the first post. I also added a Stinger fixed line output converter for those. The result was incredible. It was exactly what I was looking for. A much better sounding system, not overpowering, but really nice sounding, and inexpensive. I spent about $600 total with installation. And the 10 inch sub was mounted in the cut out in the rear deck. I would highly recommend this if you want a cheaper improvement on the stock system.
After replacing the door speakers as stated in the original post, I noticed incredible sound clarity, but not much bass response. To improve this, I felt I didnt need the line output converter or the amp to power the door speakers and scrapped that idea. But I did buy the Kicker sub and Pioneer amp I talked about in the first post. I also added a Stinger fixed line output converter for those. The result was incredible. It was exactly what I was looking for. A much better sounding system, not overpowering, but really nice sounding, and inexpensive. I spent about $600 total with installation. And the 10 inch sub was mounted in the cut out in the rear deck. I would highly recommend this if you want a cheaper improvement on the stock system.
Last edited by dohturdima; Dec 27, 2010 at 01:33 PM.
hello guys, I was curious to see replies to the last poster, I also have a 2007
Infiniti G35x, with no Navi, and I am looking to replace all my speakers, including tweets and add a subwoofer. Any thoughts out there guys would really be appreciated.
Infiniti G35x, with no Navi, and I am looking to replace all my speakers, including tweets and add a subwoofer. Any thoughts out there guys would really be appreciated.
I also bought a Pioneer amp (as above) and the Kicker sub along with a line converter (passive) but haven't gotten around to the install yet. backdrft76 who did all of the above is really happy with the result, so my expectations are similar.
Hey guys i have a 2008 sedan with bose.what r our otions with the bose system..I bought infiniti kappa perfect series for the door and i have a jl audio w7 12inch,Is there a way of upgrading the stock sub in the bose system without me installing this big *** w7 lol.i would like to save my trunk space but if not **** it i will install the w7.helpppp lol
I have made a significant improvement in the stock head unit with subwoofer project. I also have Boston acoustic speakers in the doors, but thought it still sounded "boomy" (too much midbass).
However, I installed cap filters at the speaker that cut 0-200HZ, and WOW, what a difference.
So, what I have installed to date added to the BASE model 2006 G35 coupe head unit:
Boston Acoustic SR65 door speakers
Add Amp, to tap the signal for a sub
JL Powerwedge Max 12"
Scosche 0-200 HZ filter
Soon to come: Rear Boston Acoustics SR65 speakers for the back seat area.
also with Stinger 0-300HZ Bass Blockers.
Eventually, I will upgrade the head unit, and amps for the 6.5s but this will carry me for a little while.
However, I installed cap filters at the speaker that cut 0-200HZ, and WOW, what a difference.
So, what I have installed to date added to the BASE model 2006 G35 coupe head unit:
Boston Acoustic SR65 door speakers
Add Amp, to tap the signal for a sub
JL Powerwedge Max 12"
Scosche 0-200 HZ filter
Soon to come: Rear Boston Acoustics SR65 speakers for the back seat area.
also with Stinger 0-300HZ Bass Blockers.
Eventually, I will upgrade the head unit, and amps for the 6.5s but this will carry me for a little while.
Last edited by Iagent; Apr 3, 2011 at 01:26 PM.
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