What is the normal battery current drain for a parked car?
#16
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My experience with my 05 G35 is when the battery is fully charged, the car can be left alone with the car alarm armed, and at the two week mark still start the car. When my Optima battery was new, I've made it to three weeks before restarting the car.The variable is the quality of the battery, the age of the battery, outside temperature,and how good of a charge it has. If the car is a daily driver, there should not be a requirement to hook up a battery tender nightly or over the weekend.
#17
My experience with my 05 G35 is when the battery is fully charged, the car can be left alone with the car alarm armed, and at the two week mark still start the car. When my Optima battery was new, I've made it to three weeks before restarting the car.The variable is the quality of the battery, the age of the battery, outside temperature,and how good of a charge it has. If the car is a daily driver, there should not be a requirement to hook up a battery tender nightly or over the weekend.
#18
dvandriesen, if you have a 110-milliamp draw, you're going to have issues with any battery you try to use. As I mentioned before, even if a 100-milliamp draw is considered by some to be normal for a G35, it is still a high enough draw that it will eventually (sooner rather than later) discharge any battery used in that vehicle. That would make either a quick disconnect or some kind of quality maintainer nearly mandatory for such a vehicle.
In addition to avion's suggestion about the temperature, quality, age and state of charge of a battery, I would definitely include how the battery is used. Daily-driven vehicles with a 100-milliamp draw can absolutely have issues, depending on how far the car is driven, at what speed and if accessories are being used. A 20-mile daily commute at highway speeds will likely help maintain a battery far better than a 10-minute commute in stop and go traffic.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
In addition to avion's suggestion about the temperature, quality, age and state of charge of a battery, I would definitely include how the battery is used. Daily-driven vehicles with a 100-milliamp draw can absolutely have issues, depending on how far the car is driven, at what speed and if accessories are being used. A 20-mile daily commute at highway speeds will likely help maintain a battery far better than a 10-minute commute in stop and go traffic.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
#19
dvandriesen, if you have a 110-milliamp draw, you're going to have issues with any battery you try to use. As I mentioned before, even if a 100-milliamp draw is considered by some to be normal for a G35, it is still a high enough draw that it will eventually (sooner rather than later) discharge any battery used in that vehicle. That would make either a quick disconnect or some kind of quality maintainer nearly mandatory for such a vehicle.
In addition to avion's suggestion about the temperature, quality, age and state of charge of a battery, I would definitely include how the battery is used. Daily-driven vehicles with a 100-milliamp draw can absolutely have issues, depending on how far the car is driven, at what speed and if accessories are being used. A 20-mile daily commute at highway speeds will likely help maintain a battery far better than a 10-minute commute in stop and go traffic.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
In addition to avion's suggestion about the temperature, quality, age and state of charge of a battery, I would definitely include how the battery is used. Daily-driven vehicles with a 100-milliamp draw can absolutely have issues, depending on how far the car is driven, at what speed and if accessories are being used. A 20-mile daily commute at highway speeds will likely help maintain a battery far better than a 10-minute commute in stop and go traffic.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
#21
I need to double check and see if the alternator is pulling any power when car is off if not nothing else to check as I have pulled every fuse and found that my radio fuse is pulling the major of my draw but it got me back to the 110ma. I'm gonna try and test with a yellow top optima actually which I have heard good reviews on. Not sure why but 110ma is where I'm at which definitely seems high however some say high and some don't.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
#23
It sounds like you need to address that issue with your factory stereo. Any warranty coverage left?
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries
#24
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Did you have the battery load tested immediately after a 24 hour high current charge? If it tested good, and charging circuit is putting out > 14Vdc under full load and you only have a 100ma draw, then seek Infiniti to perform the Technical Bulletin to reduce the the high current self test it does randomly.
#25
Did you have the battery load tested immediately after a 24 hour high current charge? If it tested good, and charging circuit is putting out > 14Vdc under full load and you only have a 100ma draw, then seek Infiniti to perform the Technical Bulletin to reduce the the high current self test it does randomly.
#26
Did you have the battery load tested immediately after a 24 hour high current charge? If it tested good, and charging circuit is putting out > 14Vdc under full load and you only have a 100ma draw, then seek Infiniti to perform the Technical Bulletin to reduce the the high current self test it does randomly.
#27
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I think this might be it, Call them and ask if this is the one that reduces the random high current self checks. The actual Bulletin # seems to be based on year of the car, so they will have to look up the one that really applies to your car.
2005 Infiniti G35 Electrical System Service Bulletin 335971
NHTSA: Action Number: 10044526 Service Bulletin Number: 335971
Report Date:
Jul 06, 2012
Component:
Electrical System
Summary: Infiniti: reprogramming electronic control unit (ecu) on all qualifying vehicles. No models listed. Model years 1998-2013. *pe
2005 Infiniti G35 Electrical System Service Bulletin 335971
NHTSA: Action Number: 10044526 Service Bulletin Number: 335971
Report Date:
Jul 06, 2012
Component:
Electrical System
Summary: Infiniti: reprogramming electronic control unit (ecu) on all qualifying vehicles. No models listed. Model years 1998-2013. *pe
#28
battery drain TB, copy of a post
This is a copy of a post from another web site with the same problem.
I have not measured drainage, but I did have an incident where my battery was dead after the car sat for a few days.
It is a 2008 G37S Coupe. This happened about 2 years ago.
I took it in to the dealer and they had a Service Bulletin that had them reprogram the ECU.
They told me that the ECU performs a periodic test of some systems (i.e. check for fuel vapor / leak). These tests drain the battery, and if not driven very often can lead to a dead battery.
The reprogramming of the ECU changes the intervals of this test (to alot less frequently).
They replaced my battery and reprogrammed the ECU at no cost.
No problems since.
I have not measured drainage, but I did have an incident where my battery was dead after the car sat for a few days.
It is a 2008 G37S Coupe. This happened about 2 years ago.
I took it in to the dealer and they had a Service Bulletin that had them reprogram the ECU.
They told me that the ECU performs a periodic test of some systems (i.e. check for fuel vapor / leak). These tests drain the battery, and if not driven very often can lead to a dead battery.
The reprogramming of the ECU changes the intervals of this test (to alot less frequently).
They replaced my battery and reprogrammed the ECU at no cost.
No problems since.
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