Hey, I used the template today and it looks like the caliper will actually hit the edge of the rim on 18's.... so like 19's or bigger are required even with spacers since the clearance isn't so much spoke clearance it looks like actual size of caliper clearance...

 

^ found the same thing.
There's a bit of a step in the rim that gets in the way.

...Big question is, do any 18s fit over the Akebono?
If not, what the he!! do you do for snows?

That about kills this idea for me

:edit:
word of caution when printing out the template.
Make sure it prints @ 100% scaling.

 

^ I thought i read somewhere that you can use the stock wheels but need like 20mm spacers. Also the new Stock 18 rims fit over the brakes.

 

I've heard a few different stories.
There was definitely rim interference with the template.
& I checked template accuracy with a caliper

..kinda bummed right now, I was hoping to use the sport 18s for snows.
I haven't seen a post from anyone that actually did a test fit though.

 

You mean by actually placing the caliper/rotor on the Sport 18s? Not just this? I can do that for you tonight, like i did for the spare in that other thread. Just LMK.

- Mike

 

^ I tried the template last night & it was definitely hitting the barrel. (barely)
I even used a digital Vernier to confirm the scaling of the template.
IDK if there's a fudge factor in the template though.

...I'd love to try an test fit of the barrel.
The spokes don't worry me, a spacer will fix that.

 

Well, I'm pretty sure then 08 stock 18 don't work, that's why in the 09 they had to make a new 18inch wheel. I thought it was the spokes that was the problem though. I read somewhere a long time ago that the calipers and the wheel with the 18s was so close that you could only fit like a piece of paper between them which means a rock = death.

 

^ thanks....
Considering that the template is not perfect,
that sounds bang on.


...I really didn't want to go through the hassle of swapping my 18s for the new 18s, just to mount some snows

 

check craigslist - i've found the old rays 19's for as cheap as 300!!! with three good tires. you can sell your stock 18s for a few hundred and pick up those rays or i'm sure you can find someone selling the new 18s for CHEAP. They are so ugly I can't imagine anyone who would want them - other than a snow setup haha

I've been debating the akebonos for awhile....they'd look gorgeous, but for the price - i think just getting some slotted rotors and upgraded pads will do the trick - Stillen is offering free metal matrix pads with purchase of rotors - anybody have experience with any Stillen branded brake setup? I'm really considering but would like to see if anyone has feedback http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...odel=G35%204DR

anyone run into issues at dealerships with aftermarket rotors/pads? warranty issues i mean?

 

Honestly, slotted rotors is just for looks. I've had them in my old car and it didn't do anything for performance at all - eventually took them off. In fact, depending on the type of pad you put on them, it made some noise when stopping from high speeds. Most performance pads these days don't gas up like they did years ago, so the benefits of the slots are lost in them.

As for Metal Matrix, never again will i use those. Unless you get them nice and hot (rarely happens in a daily driver, even with spirited driving) it will never perform as good as OEM in cold stops (slow speeds, traffic, etc.). What ticked me off the most? I was pulling out of the driveway one morning, in the middle of summer mind you, my neighbor's kid appeared out of nowhere, running towards my path. The brakes didn't so squat, i just heard and felt it slide. Thankfully my neighbor grabbed his kid just as i swerved to the curb.

As for warranty, i never really had problems with them. But as with most dealerships, your mileage may vary.

If you want to take "baby steps" , check out the Carbotech pads. The nice thing about them is they can be switched around from level to level without having to resurface the rotors. So, you can run Bobcats for daily, and move up to XP16's for heavy track use... and anything in-between, like the AX6 for AutoX.

I don't know if you've managed to replace pads on your ride yet, but although it's a rather simple process with the OEM, most BBK's have it easier as it's literally a drop and replace type of thing.

 

oh really? I knew drilled rotors couldn't stand up to much heat in "spirited driving"and weren't an upgrade, but I was under the impression that the slotted were - you just saved me a bunch of money

Carbotech? Good deal I'll check em out. I want a pad that will still give me good bite during normal street driving but will hold up during spririted maneuvers if they start to get hot. Everything I've heard about our OEM setups is that they're pretty damn good to begin with. I'll go check out Carbotech.

Is the pad changing process as simple as just getting the car up and taking off the caliper to get to the pads? I'm confident I could do that, but not sure about anything beyond the physical changing of them

 

FWIW, my genuine Brembo 1 pc rotors (drilled) I got from Tirerack were very good rotors. They lasted over 3 years, and were still running strong when I sold the car. No cracking, no warping, nothing.

I'd buy them again in an instant if they were offered for our cars.

 

Slots basically just help with letting out gas build-up between pad and rotor. But you are taking metal out of the rotor itself to do the slots, theoretically reducing thermal capacity. Drilled, certainly not a good idea for track use as it's prone to crack. (looks nice though)

Carbotech's are pretty good pads and have great reviews, but they are rather pricey... about 2x the cost of the OEM pads themselves. They're also one of the very few pads available for us Sport owners.

I have to say, all the reviews i've read from fellow Sport owners who took their car to the track were positive. I can say the same from my own experience with it, granted MSR isn't known for being hard on brakes. Then again, i did beat on it pretty well in the straights, turns and all this in near 100 degree temps.

... and i still have plenty of meat left for daily driving.

Yep, replacing the pads is fairly simple. The fronts are a little tricky because there's a typical bolt on the topside, but the bottom is held on by a torx bolt for which i didn't have a wrench/driver for. Harbor sells them cheap though. So, long as you have all the tools, you're good to go. The rears are super easy, just one bolt, swing the caliper over and replace the pads.

Overall, i'd say jacking the car up is a little harder than replacing the pads. Shouldn't take you more than an hour first time around.

Download the FSM from my site. Forget the instructions on them, it looks more complicated than it really is, but do take note of how much to torque everything back.

 

I purchased a complete kit from everything g35 for my 07 g35s sedan and they do fit w 15mm spacers go to gallery and look for my pics, I also purchased steel brake lines upgraded MuBu force brake pads, spacers with install about $2700 oh and I had stillen sway bars put on what a difference they make, no pitch at all into corners. The brakes are very good, maybe excellent but it has been so cold here, no chance to really test them.

 

Great to hear it worked out so well for you. EverythingG35 is a great place with great people. I shop there a lot!