No, there's not really a way around not dremelling that piece. You saw my photo with it un-modified, i wouldn't recommend using it like that, that's flat out dangerous.

It will definetly help in body-roll, it will be a somewhat large improvement. Remember,a sway-bar will help more in reducing body-roll. Although changing to a stiffer spring while keeping the SAME roll-bar, will still increase stiffness, because all a roll-bar does is basically take a compression force on the cornering side, and transfer some-most of that force to the opposing side. Stiffer roll-bars deflect less, and transfer more.

If all you want to do is lower roll though, i can't completely recommend a sway bar kit, they can sometimes make the back end twitchy and track funny while straight driving on uneven roads. I would always get a sway bar AFTER springs, they are the final garnish. The cherry to the Sundae

 

I'm with you, cmo. I installed the same NF210 springs on my G over 6 months ago and I don't have any sag in my rear end either(I know, that just sounds wrong LOL). My rear actually sits slightly higher than the front when measure under the door sill (6" front Vs. 6-1/2" rear)... you can't really measure to under the fenders, because as you mentioned, the rear fenders sit slightly lower than the fronts. Not sure why some people get the saggy rear and some don't with these springs... seems very hit or miss. Wonder if Tanabe's quality control is off or something.

 

good info. imma deff. buy that for my awd cause my rear is way lower then the front.. thanks for such good info.

 

Are these springs the same rates as stock, only shorter or are they stiffer spring rates AND shorter? Do they add any bounce? Basically, if someone went from a stock suspension car to this one, will they notice the difference in a bad way (namely the wife!!!)?

 

So has this been determined as "the fix" for all X's? Has any other X tried this successfully? I'm about to pull the trigger on these springs and would like to know I won't have to live with the saggy rear.

Thanks

 

looks good and good idea to get rid of the saggy butt.

 

thanks just bought those energy suspension mounts!

 

Forgive me for resurrecting an old thread, but I found this thread particularly enlightening, and I thought it was worth bringing back to the top.

Who's done this? Are there any long-term results to talk about?

This mod makes a lot of sense to me, and I don't see any issues. I have a set of early 350Z springs in my garage, and it'd be rad if this made it look right ( fix the sag in the rear) and function properly. It would be handy to have some reports from the field.

 

i did the same thing with my H&Rs....def helped out!

 

dropped my 05 rwd sedan on tanabe nf210's and have quite the saggy rear. thanks for the great diy, i remember reading this before the drop but couldnt find it for the part number until today. looks like a safe and easy fix.

 

Hello, 2 years ago.

I recently performed the same mod, based on the same bushings as matched up with Swift Springs on a G37S 6MT Sedan. The driver's side came out perfect... Mission Accomplished. However, the passenger side is actually too high compared to the driver's side. I'm considering trying again with the 3/8" bushing of the same specs, just on the passenger side, but a thought occurred to me today. If someone has an opinion on this, love to hear it:

My mechanic (don't judge me, LOL) struggled with getting the passenger side back in place while the bushing was in the mix, but not so much with the driver's side. I'm wondering, could the top-seat (conical rubber seat) be oriented so that it's not fit into the tower properly? Could that explain why the passenger side was difficult to re-seat, and why the passenger side is higher than the driver's side?

Although I've customized the bushing perfectly to be flush against the shelf of the top-seat, observe how the polyurethane is harder, and less forgiving than the rubber of the top-seat. Is that a problem, having the top of the spring not crushed into the rubber the way it would be without this bushing?

 

What about simply cutting a nice groove for the last 4-5" of the coil spring to sit into, that would effectively lower it around 1/4-3/4" of an inch at a minimum I would think. You can clearly see it's resting on that end section, as well it would allow even loading on the spring rather than almost all the loading being in one or two locations on the coil.
Obviously taking the urethane piece all the way out would be too much I'm assuming?

See attached thumbnail for epic MS Paint work. I meant to draw a sharper angle on the upper line, as you can imagine you want to cut it on an angle to match the angle of the spring.

 

Yes Matt, epic MS Paint work. LOL

I thought about that, grinding down a tapered section into the ledge of the bushing by 180* around.

But if all that's going on is that the upper seat isn't properly seated... that would be the solution. My problem is that I don't know what the frame/tower looks like on the flat of the upper seat. I didn't install them, or get all up in the mechanic's business when he did. Are there raised elements there which fit into the grooves of the upper seat rubber? Is that my problem?

 

Yes, it is definitely possible for the upper factory bushing not to be seated in the upper mount on the tub of car. There 3 (if I recall correctly) metal tabs that lock this upper bushing into place, but if one or more of these metal tabs accidentally gets bent down (toward the car frame) and doesn't get seated inside the hole in the center of the bushing then it will cause the bushing not reseat properly. I've had this happen to me several times when reinstalling the rear suspension on my G so you have to be very careful when installing those upper bushings on to their mount. Those metal tabs are all fairly thin and fragile, so try not to bend them too much otherwise the metal will eventually fatigue and break off.

I'm not sure how much higher this would make the car sit if this bushing wasn't seated properly, but it's definitely something I would check. The other thing to check is to make sure that the spring itself is rotated properly in the spring seat in the aluminum lower control arm. There is a ledge of sorts that the lower most coil should butt up against but not sit on. If it is sitting up on it you will essentially be making that spring almost the thickness of the coil longer.

Hope this all make sense. If I can find some pics of one of my MANY suspension installs then I will try to post those up as well so you'll have a better idea of what I'm trying to say.

I doubt that the polyurethane being harder than the rubber will cause any issues, but if you were to only use the polyurethane and eliminate the rubber bushing altogether then that would transmit a lot more of the road noise and imperfections right into the body of the car (read: more harshness), which you and your passengers would feel. The rubber bushings are there to help isolate some of this road harshness from what we actually feel inside the car. I've actually gone with full poly bushing setups (and even had solid bushings in my E36 M3 at one time) in other cars in the past and although you gain steering feel and overall handling you do sacrifice a whole lot of ride comfort over the factory rubber bushings. I'm too old for that now, so all of my cars recently have kept the factory rubber bushings.

 

Just for reference, here's a thread I started years ago regarding the Tanabe springs. There aren't any pics of the install here, unfortunately, but I'm pretty sure I took some, so I'll check my computer when I get home later and see if I have any pics of that upper rear bushing mount.

https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-bra...springs-3.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/media-s...ings-pics.html