Urgent input/advice needed on e-brake-vdc-slip-cruise lights coming on!
#31
#34
I ended up going with the shop that had the best reviews on yelp.
Fortunately, my rear pads were fine, so I only had to have the fronts done. However, they told me they needed to replace my front rotors too because they were too thin to be resurfaced.
New front pads/rotors + brake flush (since it's been >4 years): Total cost: $510.
For the parts, they charged me $70 for Centric 106.08150-FU pads, and $180 for 2 Centric 120.42074-FU rotors. I just did a quick search on amazon.... If these and are the same parts, I could have saved ~$70 if I bought them from amazon.
Fortunately, my rear pads were fine, so I only had to have the fronts done. However, they told me they needed to replace my front rotors too because they were too thin to be resurfaced.
New front pads/rotors + brake flush (since it's been >4 years): Total cost: $510.
For the parts, they charged me $70 for Centric 106.08150-FU pads, and $180 for 2 Centric 120.42074-FU rotors. I just did a quick search on amazon.... If these and are the same parts, I could have saved ~$70 if I bought them from amazon.
#35
#37
#40
I'm not sure if it fixed it. I have not tried to replicate the problem yet. Based on the level of fluid in the reservoir, and the angle I was accelerating at, it would make sense if this was the problem. I will try to replicate it later. If the problem persists I will take it into the shop and have my brakes checked out.
Would I be able to pull error codes with a code reader even if the SES light did not come on?
Would I be able to pull error codes with a code reader even if the SES light did not come on?
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Hasanbaloch
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
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02-29-2024 08:45 PM