Hi guys,

Ok some of u might know, the stealers here refuse to install my Akebono brakes because they're gay.

So anyway, I'm looking at DIY'ing the brakes myself. I've read several DIYs and asked people on what to do. But I just wanted to clarify a few things when installing the new lines and calipers.

I have listed below the steps that need to be taken to make sure the brake lines are connected correctly and with no air trapped inside.

If anyone can suggest anything or any better way of doing this please let me know:

1 - Unscrew old caliper from rotor
2 - Let it hang (with zip ties)
3 - Connect new lines to new calipers
4 - Disconnect and remove old brake line with old caliper attached (remove both from vehicle)

Now this is where I need clarification:

5 - Attach new caliper onto rotor & connect the new brake line.
6 - Keep bleeder valve closed
7 - Pump brake until it's hard (keep foot pressed down so no air is sucked in)
8 - Open bleeder valve and let air/oil drain.
9 - Close valve and pump the brake again (keep foot pressed down)
10 - Open valve and let air/oil drain out until only oil and no air comes out.
11 - Close valve

is this the correct way to go about bleeding the new calipers and oil?

Also do I install the new brake pads AFTER I've done the above steps?

Or is it advisable to install the pads before I start draining the air/oil out?

 

Install the pads before, definitely.

Otherwise you're going to have to remove the calipers again to push the pistons back in, not to mention you risk popping the pistons out. You'll also have to suck some fluid from the reservoir caused by the back-flow, or it may overflow. You want the pads touching the rotors, not the pistons.

By the way, be sure to wrap a rag around the reservoir, just in case the fluid does overflow.

As for hanging the calipers, if you can find a thick gauge steel wire or even a coat hanger, i would suggest that over zip ties. The iron calipers are quite heavy and some zip ties are better than others in terms of holding weight.

Also, before doing all this, spray some PB Blaster on the rotor hub and torque member bolts minutes if not hours before doing the swap. It'll make your life easier.

Hope that helps.

 

Hey thanks for the feedback Mike,

I actually just sent u a pm regarding the bleeder valves.

Ok so just to clarify, I should install the pads and shims into the new caliper before mounting it onto the rotor?

OR I install the caliper onto rotor, then install pads and shims, then install break lines and bleed the system out?

 

Welcome

Install the caliper, then pads before bleeding. The lines can go either before or after you put the calipers on. IMHO, the lines should go on the new calipers immediately after disconnecting it from the old one (or are you using ss lines?).

 

There are some great articles on the Stoptech site that apply regardless which brake system.
e.g. Brake Bleeding; see also pad bedding etc.

Also, be sure to clean off any spilled/leaked brake fluid from the calipers after bleeding.
It is corrosive and will destroy the paint finish.

It's really a straight forward job once you get into it.

:edit:
Disconnect the battery during bleeding to prevent the ABS from activating!!!!


.

 

yeah I'm using the SS lines.

ok so once I've disconnected the old lines I'll try and connect the SS lines asap but without bleeding then I'll install the pads followed by bleeding

BTW I forgot to ask. When I remove the old caliper/lines would I need to bleed them before removing them?

or can I just disconnect the line, take out the 2 nuts holding the caliper and remove it from the car?

I'm thinking once I remove the old lines is it under pressure or something? or should I expect the fluid to start dripping out of the old caliper/lines?

Thanks InTgr8r for the linky I'll check it out

 

The OE lines (front) are in 3 pieces.
Caliper> flex line> solid tubing> flex line to wheel well fitting
B4 disconnecting lines...
- Install new rotors & Ake caliper c/w pads (OE hanging) Do all 4
- Install SS line on the Ake caliper with banjo bolt and 2 copper washers.

Then....
- Disconnect two fittings at each end of OE solid tubing.
Caliper will now be free.
- Disconnect OE flex at wheel well fitting.
- Connect SS line at wheel well fitting

Repeat all 4 corners

Then...
Start bleeding procedure.
Make sure to fill reservoir & DON'T let it get low

 

Also, make sure you bleed in the following order:

Right rear, left front, left rear, right front.

This is per my 06 FSM, but would think it applies to all years. Anyone confirm?

 

Thanks for the feedback dude,

So I'm guessing it would be ok not to bleed the original calipers if I am to follow your instructions above.

just a few question,

when u say:

- Install new rotors & Ake caliper c/w pads <---- "c/w pads" u mean install pads right? what's the C for?

- I was going to start at the rear passenger side and the rear driver side, then front passenger side then front driver side. Can I install them this way and then bleed the same way I installed them? i.e.

bleed the Rear passenger side first
Then Rear driver side,
Then Front passenger side,
finally Front driver side?


Hmm odd, someone told me to do it like I wrote above, can anyone clarify which way is the correct way?

 

I'd go with the FSM order for full fluid change. I've learned from some users here and around the web that for basic bleeding after swapping out the calipers, you can do it in any order so long as you do it one caliper at a time... that is, don't disconnect all four at the same time, in which case, follow the proper order.

p.s. There's no need to bleed the old calipers, IMHO it's just a waste of fluid.

 

Ok cool,

a few more questions please:

1- What is the oil that's used in the break fluid?

2- Is it ok to mix it? I dunno if there are grads of this stuff or if all break fluids are the same?

3- Do I have to disconnect the battery while doing this process?

4- Roughly how long did u have to hammer the rotors for to eventually get them loose?

 

1. You can use DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. Do not use DOT 5 fluid!
2. It's OK to mix them. If you bleed a few times, it'll eventually replace all the old fluids.
3. Yes, for ABS reasons posted by Ian above.
4. I used a bolt to remove the front rotors, for the rears it wasn't as bad as i thought -- a few bangs on the hub and edges of the rotor and some PB Blaster prior. For the rears, make sure your parking brake is off.

Btw, you don't have to remove the brake shield up front. For the rears you can trim it completely, or just trim the "lip".

 

Thanks mix for the feedback,

lol how did u exactly use a bolt to remove the front rotors?

As for the brake shield I thought I had to trim a bit off for the caliper to fit?

for the rears I was planning on hammering the 90 degree bit outward so I can at least have it there for dust and stuff. Similar to what Q8y did when he installed his.

 

Welcome.

For the front rotors, there's an extra hole on the hub (if you have a sport, a bolt is there to prevent you from mounting the rear wheels up front). All Nissan OEM rotors have this hole, however. I just screwed a longer bolt through and it pops the rotors off.

For the shields, the fronts are out of the way, no need to do anything with it. For the rears, people trim the entire thing off, but really it's just the lip and a small part by the caliper that's blocking the way. It's personal preference on that one.

If the rear rotors refuse to come out, you can try this how-to. I actually bought all the parts but never had to use 'em:

 

sweet trick, and yes I "had" the same bolts, thanks I'll buy the necessary tools