Sorry to hear Rollo I actually had purchased Drilled slotted rotors and the stop tech pads from Brake motive on ebay for my Previous car which was a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart and i drove that car hard i had this setup on the car for 2 years without a problem then I bought my G

 

Well...brakemotive sold me a new pair of front rotors for 80 shipped so I added the splash shields and tried the new rotors...

These warped more quickly than the first. I only replaced the fronts so I think I'm going to have them turned, front and then back to see if I can isolate the warping to the front or back before I start replacing rotors again.

I'll update again after I figure it out but I have to say that I DO NOT recommend these rotors for our cars.

 

RE Brakemotive. Set purchased in 2009 still going strong at 30,000 miles. Minimal wear.
I have since also installed on a Mustang and a Nissan Rogue. EZ install and breakin. NO probs whatsoever.

One word though... use the ceramic pads that they were designed for.. NOT OEM. Note..A friend bought just rotors and warped the stuffings out of them using aftermarket metalic pads

 

Purchased in 2009 30,000 miles later am very happy. Minimal wear..
Since then have installed sets on my Mustang and a Nissan Rogue. No probs at all.
I did follow breakin procedure to the letter. You can warp new rotors very easy with ceramic pads if not installed or broken in properly.

I asked a local shop about them and they showed me a storeroom full. They only sell installed sets.

I have only used the ceramic pads designed and sold with the set.

 

Any rotor should work and feel perfectly fine when you first install it. The biggest concern people have about cheap, improperly drilled rotors is cracking due to the fact that the metal constantly contracts and expands due to the heat from braking.

While not everyone with cheaply drilled rotors will have this problem, it sucks being the small percent, especially when you're in a situation when your life depends on your brakes working properly for just a few more seconds.

Unluckily, even the more expensive drilled rotors have issues with cracking as well, it really just depends on whether the rotors are drilled blanks or were produced drilled. These days, especially when it comes to drilled rotors, brand names don't mean sh*t anymore.

 

Those pics are as bad as it gets. Pretty obvious the bottom one was subjected to a overheat from the crazing and cracking. It looks more like pad/ rotor mismatch/ bad driving habit like riding the pedal/ hung piston, panic stop from high speed, etc. Did all other rotors exhibit heat damage like this?

It's a given that drilling will cause stress risers and for most drivers no real advantages.

 

Don't know, don't care. I've had a set of ebay drilled and slotted rotors crack on me before, just not as bad as the one in the second pic. Ultimately, drilled rotors are useless unless it's a track car as your brakes will not get that hot under daily driving conditions.

The second pic looks like they might have drilled right through the supports inside the rotor.

On the other hand, slotted rotors will help draw in the brake pads by letting out the excess gasses that the more performance or race oriented brake pads produce therefore can actually be useful even for daily driving, and they have the advantage of not having an issue with cracking either.

And one more thing to think about - you can, in a sense, measure the amount of stopping power by the amount of area where your brake pads make contact to the rotor. Like cooling and surface area, the more surface area to make contact with the brake pads, the better. The holes in your rotor take away quite a bit from this, so if your drilled rotors aren't going to get hot enough to need the extra surface area to be cooled, you are sacrificing braking surface for looks.

 

Had the front rotors turned and the judder went away. It has been a few thousand miles now and feels like it might be returning...

I'm thinking of trying the brakeperformance dimpled/slotted next....

 

See the brake rotors milled in usa, Illinois EBAY site to find a good blog on how judder happens.. and please note your rotors only need to be .002 out to give you pedal judder feel. Make 100% sure the mounting surfaces are dead clean and no rust accumulation is
present. Also check the new rotors for flange burs. If runout still persiste there is a brake align product that is a sliver of steel shim material to recover true parralel rotation.
When old rotors are turned that had juder before it will return because the original cause was not addressed..Turning rotors works only if you only need a pad change. In other words- you need new rotors and pads to match.. anything else is a bandaid not a cure.
eliminate runout.

It takes me a good 5 minutes per wheel to clean the mounting surface even when I use the wire brushes designed for it.. There is a neat brush at the parts store that is hollow and fits over the studs to brush the flange base..( saves your knuckle skin) Pay particular attention to the edges- I touch it with a file with a quick spin of the flange to knock off the rust ring there.

 

I finally ordered replacement rotors/pads for my front wheels. I chose R1Concepts premium D/S and Posiquiet pads, mostly due to kool_yaar's good experience with them but also because I did not find a negative review when I googled them.

Brakeperformance had some good reviews about their customer service where people had to return them to get replacements after warping. I don't have the luxury of not having my car for a week or 2 while they send me new rotors so I decided to go with the R1's and hope they work as well for me as they have for kool_

I'll post pics after I recieve them and get them on the car.

 

Thats a lot of pressure! lol. Hope everything works out for you! like i said before iv loved these rotors and have no cracks or such like the pics after ~45-50k miles with some hard driving/braking plus i think 1 track day...

Disclaimer(just to be safe!): i have no affiliation with R1 and neither can i guarantee how well the brake setup will work for you...

 

Ok...I finally got around to installing my new R1 Premium D/S rotors and posiquite ceramic pads today. My initial impressions are:

Wow! I can't believe how much better my brakes perform. I will try to get some pics tomorrow and will update the first post with pictures and my continuing saga....

 

any updates on the R1?

 

any updates on the DUI ?

 

lol hahahaha!
thank the lord, NO!
i know its a bad graphic i have.
i had nothin else to use. and didnt wanna
leave my posts blank.