Brakemotive "ebay" drilled/slotted rotor review
^ yes i have seen those as well, but compare the lower rusted drilled hole with the cracked one and see the difference in thickness, its very obvious the owner let the rotor wear down well below its minimum thickness.
Once the chamfered area is "compromised" u need new rotors, which is why having D/S is a better idea as once the end of the slots are starting to disappear you know its time to change your rotors and avoid such mishaps.
Most d/s rotors site state ... "The slots and diamonds are machined to the minimum rotor thickness to insure rotor strength and integrity" Once you see the slots starting to even out with the rotor switch out
Once the chamfered area is "compromised" u need new rotors, which is why having D/S is a better idea as once the end of the slots are starting to disappear you know its time to change your rotors and avoid such mishaps.
Most d/s rotors site state ... "The slots and diamonds are machined to the minimum rotor thickness to insure rotor strength and integrity" Once you see the slots starting to even out with the rotor switch out
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I have read about some cheaper ebay rotors being low carbon steel and comparatively very soft but I doubt these are like that. Like I said, I'll get 20 thousand miles on them in a year and should have a good idea if they are soft within 6 months.
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From: Bowling Green Ky (Home of the Corvette)
Great info guys. I'm in the market for rotors and would like to keep the cost at a minimum. I do not do performance driving, therefore am not very hard on brakes at all. Might look into these a little more.
rob.g
rob.g
I didn't measure them but they looked about the same size as the OEM's and are at least as heavy. I kept the OEM's just in case of a tragedy but I really don't think they will be a problem.
I have read about some cheaper ebay rotors being low carbon steel and comparatively very soft but I doubt these are like that. Like I said, I'll get 20 thousand miles on them in a year and should have a good idea if they are soft within 6 months.
I have read about some cheaper ebay rotors being low carbon steel and comparatively very soft but I doubt these are like that. Like I said, I'll get 20 thousand miles on them in a year and should have a good idea if they are soft within 6 months.
I don't have them anymore, they went to the scrap yard where they belonged in the first place.
BTW: I was using EBC "green stuff" pads with these. Loved them, but they eat rotors like candy.
BTW: I was using EBC "green stuff" pads with these. Loved them, but they eat rotors like candy.
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I have over 6 thousand miles on them now and they are holding up perfectly. No rust, no judder, just execllent performance. I'll update again next year when I have over 10k on them. Here is what they look like now...1 front and 1 back one...
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Bad news for me...the front rotors have developed a high speed brake judder and I think it is worse than the stock ones had before I replaced them....but the stocks had 40k miles on them.
The rotors still look great and have no rust. Also I have not had the TSB for installing the splash shield so I may try to get that done before I change the fronts out again.
I contacted the ebay company and they said they only had a 120 day warpage warranty but offered to sell me a new set at a discount. I will probably replace the fronts with R1 premiums or the Barkeperformance dimpled though.
With only 10k miles on the pads is there any reason I couldn't just replace the rotors my self and leave the current pads in place? They seem to work well.
The rotors still look great and have no rust. Also I have not had the TSB for installing the splash shield so I may try to get that done before I change the fronts out again.
I contacted the ebay company and they said they only had a 120 day warpage warranty but offered to sell me a new set at a discount. I will probably replace the fronts with R1 premiums or the Barkeperformance dimpled though.
With only 10k miles on the pads is there any reason I couldn't just replace the rotors my self and leave the current pads in place? They seem to work well.
That sucks. I would definitely get the TSB splash shields installed. You really should get new pads when going with new rotors but I can see your point about only having 10k miles on them.
I'm looking at replacing my front/rear pads and don't like the idea of having my car down for a whole day while they machine the OE rotors. I saw a suggestion on the Z forum of these rotors for a quick and cheap swap. Glad I didn't get 'em and sorry they didn't turn out so good for you.
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From: TX
Thanks for the review, I almost pulled the trigger on a set of Ebay rotor and brake set for my car because the brake judder on my stock rotors. Is the judder normal for our cars or does this mean my rotors are warped?
Judder is fairly common for these cars, although it's hard to say which you have. Judder is normally caused by uneven pad transfer (glazing) of the rotors and it can occur independent of actual warping of the rotor, yet exhibit symptoms similar to warping, so you may have one or the other or both going on. Classic judder is as described in the TSB.