18" Stock Sport Wheels... Spacers Brand/Size?

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Jan 2, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #1  
I know that I need hubcentric spacers, but what brand(s) do you recommend and what size (is it as simple as measuring the gap between the fender and the wheel currently?). I'm trying to get the clean look where the wheels come even with the fender line... or is there a cleaner look? You tell me..

Thank you!

Here are some pictures for help if you need it lol.


This picture was before I plastidip'd. Useful nonetheless



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Jan 2, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #2  
Well you aren't dropped, mine is. 20mm all around will have it flush! Go with H&R spacers!
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Jan 2, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #3  
Quote: Well you aren't dropped, mine is. 20mm all around will have it flush! Go with H&R spacers!
Flush with the fender line even though the stock sport wheels have a 5mm difference in offset? I appreciate your response for sure!

Would you recommend the drm or the drs (http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...1&c=WH&m=all)?

Edit: Could you put a picture or so up of your setup? Thanks
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Jan 2, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #4  
Quote: Would you recommend the drm or the drs (http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...1&c=WH&m=all)?
The Trak+ DRM are the way to go. Very well made, and no problems at all with them (unlike Ichiba V2 spacers)
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Jan 3, 2012 | 06:27 AM
  #5  
Quote: The Trak+ DRM are the way to go. Very well made, and no problems at all with them (unlike Ichiba V2 spacers)
That's what I was thinking. What's the application difference for th drs, like why would somebody use those rather than the drm spacers?
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Jan 3, 2012 | 10:08 AM
  #6  
Quote: That's what I was thinking. What's the application difference for th drs, like why would somebody use those rather than the drm spacers?
Some feel that having one set of studs is better than two. But you need to press out your old studs which is a real pain and you cannot easily revert to stock easily.

With the DRM spacers, you do have to make sure your wheels have cavities in them in between the holes because the stock studs will protrude past the spacer in the thinner sizes (ie. <25mm).
You should also remember to re-torque the nuts of a brand new spacer after 50 miles or so--treat them like a new set of alloy wheels.
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Jan 3, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #7  
Quote: Some feel that having one set of studs is better than two. But you need to press out your old studs which is a real pain and you cannot easily revert to stock easily.

With the DRM spacers, you do have to make sure your wheels have cavities in them in between the holes because the stock studs will protrude past the spacer in the thinner sizes.
You should also remember to re-torque the nuts of a brand new spacer after 50 miles or so--treat them like a new set of alloy wheels.
Great information man, thank you! One thing I thought about.. Wouldnt it be easy for someone to take the wheels off the spacers and steal them or can you install some antitheft nuts?
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Jan 3, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #8  
Quote: ...

Would you recommend the drm or the drs (http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...1&c=WH&m=all)?

...
Without a doubt, the drm type.


Quote:
Some feel that having one set of studs is better than two. ...
They obviously don't understand the physics involved then.


Quote: Great information man, thank you! One thing I thought about.. Wouldnt it be easy for someone to take the wheels off the spacers and steal them or can you install some antitheft nuts?
You can use your anti-theft nuts just the same as you would have if you were bolting to your hubs.
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Jan 3, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #9  
Sweet ! Thank you guys. Any recommendations on aftermarket nuts or should I save my money ?

Edith and to verify that I will have no issues with the bolts protruding past the space I can just look right?
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Jun 21, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #10  
UPDATE:
If I was dropped on the Eibach PK, would I need less aggressive spacers, like 15mm instead of 20mm all-around?
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Jun 21, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #11  
If you go Eibach, I would do 20mm. I have 15mm myself and it is not flush. I should have gone 20mm...
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