DIY: Oil Change
#32
09-29-2007, 02:26 PM
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#33
09-29-2007, 02:36 PM
Originally Posted by terrycs
I've never used ramps before, only floor jack and jack stands. Is it possible to get the front of a lowered car onto ramps?
#34
09-30-2007, 07:03 PM
Originally Posted by treacherous
Capacity increased with Rev up motor in '05 IIRC. I was looking at an '03 G owners guide and it shows 4L so this must be the case.
"Wow, 5L of oil eh?
My 2003 Maxima is essentially the same engine, but mine only takes 4L. My nieghbour just picked up a 2005 G35C and wanted me to help change his oil."
"Wow, 5L of oil eh?
My 2003 Maxima is essentially the same engine, but mine only takes 4L. My nieghbour just picked up a 2005 G35C and wanted me to help change his oil."
My 04' G35 shows 5 US quarts, which should be something like 4.75 litres or something.
#35
09-30-2007, 08:15 PM
Do'in your own oil change/filter........!
For those who wish to use ramps there's special ramps on the market for
lowered cars. Or you could do like I have and lift the car while someone
slides the jack under the frame. I need to spend that extra $200 to get
Sears racing jack........not, that's four oil changes on my car. Just so you
guys know, hand tighten means snug plus all the pressure you can gather
to get it tighter with both hands. Another thing, you don't need to change
that washer on the drain plug every time you change oil. Only change it
when you notice seepage from the drain plug. I still have four from my
'92 300ZXTT, two I used in 11 years I owned that car doing oil changes every
2K miles......does this tell you anything? Oh yea, I had 125K miles on my Z
when someone else drove it out of my garage......sold!
lowered cars. Or you could do like I have and lift the car while someone
slides the jack under the frame. I need to spend that extra $200 to get
Sears racing jack........not, that's four oil changes on my car. Just so you
guys know, hand tighten means snug plus all the pressure you can gather
to get it tighter with both hands. Another thing, you don't need to change
that washer on the drain plug every time you change oil. Only change it
when you notice seepage from the drain plug. I still have four from my
'92 300ZXTT, two I used in 11 years I owned that car doing oil changes every
2K miles......does this tell you anything? Oh yea, I had 125K miles on my Z
when someone else drove it out of my garage......sold!
#36
12-06-2007, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by acidrane
2. using a 10mm socket, unscrew the 16 (or was it 17) screws that hold the belly pan on. there are 3 plastic clips in the middle of the belly pan. to remove these, use a flathead and pop the center of the clip out. the entire clip assembly will then fall down.
3. once the belly pan is off, everything is in plain view. the drain plug and filter (located literally an inch above the drain plug....so easy!)
3. once the belly pan is off, everything is in plain view. the drain plug and filter (located literally an inch above the drain plug....so easy!)
I suppose it still beats paying 30 bucks for a bloomin' oil change. 
BTW, I've only had this car for like five months and I'm extremely nervous about screwing stuff up.
#37
12-16-2007, 02:49 AM
Originally Posted by obsdnoblivion
Are you kidding me? All that junk has to be moved to get to the drain plug and filter? Do you drive a sedan or coupe? Is it lowered? You don't have scraping issues driving up on ramps? I'm so unsure about where to put jack stands or what points to use as jack points, and then I'm super scary when it comes to getting up under there as low as my car sits even being totally stock. I don't like being under there any longer than I have to. If it fell, there would be no turning back! And with all that junk covering the underside of the car, I'd have to be under there that much longer? I suppose it still beats paying 30 bucks for a bloomin' oil change.
BTW, I've only had this car for like five months and I'm extremely nervous about screwing stuff up.
I suppose it still beats paying 30 bucks for a bloomin' oil change. BTW, I've only had this car for like five months and I'm extremely nervous about screwing stuff up.
When it's on stands, I place a cinderblock behind the rear-wheels... The car is pretty sturdy in this setup, so I wouldn't worry about anythign...
As far as screwing up the oil change... There really isn't much you could screw up, as long as you use the correct oil/filter. Just make sure to lubricate the gasket on the filter before you install it.
#39
12-16-2007, 03:17 AM
#40
12-16-2007, 12:25 PM
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I just changed my oil recently. I got the car up on rhino ramps (the wider 12000 ones) without any problems.
I then removed four rear screws on the belly pan. The rear part of the belly pan then folds down (there's a cleft) exposing the oil pan and filter. I didn't need to remove all 16 screws to take the whole belly pan off.
Apart from getting the OEM oil filter off, the rest of the oil change was easy.
I installed a Fram SureDrain plug for easier oil changes in the future too.
I then removed four rear screws on the belly pan. The rear part of the belly pan then folds down (there's a cleft) exposing the oil pan and filter. I didn't need to remove all 16 screws to take the whole belly pan off.
Apart from getting the OEM oil filter off, the rest of the oil change was easy.
I installed a Fram SureDrain plug for easier oil changes in the future too.
#41
01-19-2008, 01:21 PM
#43
02-26-2008, 09:03 PM
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#44
02-26-2008, 11:16 PM
Originally Posted by ez-g
The plastic panel in my 07 has a creased "hinge" across the whole panel, but no trap door. I unscrew the four rear screws and the whole back half of the panel folds forward.
