Originally Posted by RowanBuds

Can anyone describe what the crush washer should look like. I went to the local autozone, bought everything (i dont need a new drain plug, correct?) and asked the guy for a crush washer.

He gave me some blue plastic ring, that looked like it had a star cut in the center, perfectly round on the outside. Does that sound right?

Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan

+1... you need to more than just hand tighten the oil filter and drain plug. Once you feel the filter is tight, give it another 1/2-1 full turn (as tight as your hands will let you). The drain plug needs to be tightened back on with the 14mm wrench, dont do it too tight though, just make sure its "snug" (i've done 2000+ oil changes in the last 2 years so i'm not just talkin outta my a$$) also, when changing the filter... make sure that the gasket from the old filter comes off with it (sometimes they like to stick to the housing) and if you double gasket it you'll have one BIIIIG mess to clean up.
-GP-

Originally Posted by acidrane

OK so i changed my oil last night and thought id give you guys a run down on how its down. i wont take any responsibility for your actions due to lack of experience or ignorance (i gotta cover my *** here! )

i don't have pics, i wasn't planning on writing a diy but after doing it, i thought id share my experience.

1. drive the car up on rhino ramps (you can jack it up and use jack stands as well)

2. using a 10mm socket, unscrew the 16 (or was it 17) screws that hold the belly pan on. there are 3 plastic clips in the middle of the belly pan. to remove these, use a flathead and pop the center of the clip out. the entire clip assembly will then fall down.

3. once the belly pan is off, everything is in plain view. the drain plug and filter (located literally an inch above the drain plug....so easy!)/ the plug and filter are located on the passenger side of the car. take a 14mm wrench and unscrew the drain plug (make sure the oil cap on top is off!). then unscrew the filter off. you may need a locking type oil filter remover if its on too tight (usually attaches to a ratchet and as you tighten the ratchet, it'll squeeze and remove the filter).

4. get the new filter and screw it on. tighten it as much as you can using your bare hands, then turn it 1/4 turn more. hand tighten it only! (make sure you dab a little oil on the rubber seal)

5. screw the drain plug back in. use the 14mm wrench to tighten it. after its tight, turn it 1/4 turn more. DO NOT over tighten the drain plug

6. start filling the oil from up top. i put in 5.25 quarts in and ran the engine, then checked the levels. make sure everything is tight and sealed, no leaks.

7. get back down and screw the belly pan back on.

there is no trap door on the belly pan, tho having one would've saved me a lot of time. the took me longer to get the belly pan off then to change the oil!! this is by far, the easiest engine I've changed the oil on. once the belly pan is off, everything is right there in front of you. you don't have to reach up thru wires and hoses and hot engine parts. hope this helps you guys!

vick

Originally Posted by Mike75

Any1 use a Fumoto valve in place of their OEM drain plug?
I just got my '07 G35x last week so still I'm learning about the car.
I had the valve on my last car ('05 Legacy GT) for a couple yrs and had no issues w/it.

Originally Posted by filipinowise

Thanks this is very helpful you

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

Check this out, Its a video of the procedure + info

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...ment_video.htm

text explanation link http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...eplacement.htm

Originally Posted by kool_yaar

Here ya go Form a Funnel, but now that i see the ~$30 price id rather use a crappy piece of cardboard

Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley

Easiest just to get an aluminum shroud where the oil access door keeps you from making a mess everywhere...