DIY: Replacing your battery

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Old 03-26-2010, 11:38 PM
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DIY: Replacing your battery

Here's a little how-to on replacing the battery on the G. It's literally a sub-20 minute job. It'll probably take you longer to go out and buy the battery from your local store. This is the first time i've done it on the G and with some help from Texasscout and tolyD i managed to get this done rather quickly. The instructions are very similar to Texasscout's DIY except this one doesn't involve a back-up battery and the method of removing the shroud is slightly different.

Tools needed:

* 10mm deep socket, and ratcheting wrench (makes life easier)
* Small flathead screwdriver, for popping the clips
* Pen and paper

Parts needed:

* Battery (Group 35), we use Duralast Gold in this How-To (About $85 from Autozone)
* Battery terminal grease (About $1)
* Battery terminal felt pads (this and the grease above helps prevent or limit corrosion at the terminals) (About $1)




Steps: (Warning: Keep anything flammable away from the battery while you work on it. And please remember safe practices when doing this or any other thing to your vehicle.)
  1. Using your pen and paper, jot down all your radio presets. On an '07 sedan you will have presets for your satellite, FM and AM stations. You should also note how many miles you have on your maintenance reminders -- those shown in the gauge cluster screen. You don't have to worry about the maintenance counter shown on the larger Nav screen as it seems to retain the information even after the battery is disconnected.
    .
  2. Make sure the car is off, then pop the hood and remove the battery cover.
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  3. It should now look like below. Using a small flathead screwdriver, pop the plugs circled in this photo to remove the shroud:

    .
  4. Remove the shroud and pop open the tabs marked in this photo with asterisks (*). Also, remove the rubber weatherstrip, it just pulls up and out of the way.
    .
    Now, taking note of the middle arrow with the enlarged photo, move that tab and disconnect this side of the cowl from the other. You can just pull up and aside the cowl, you can see the left side (by the hood strut) still attached -- there is no need to completely remove this.

    .
    Here's another shot showing the shroud off, cowl move up and away to the left, and weather stripping out and folded to the right.

    .
  5. Loosen the battery holder brackets using a 10mm extended socket, be sure to just loosen the rear -- DO NOT TAKE THE NUT OFF COMPLETELY otherwise the J-hook will fall off and you're going to have a field day fishing it out (shown in inset photo below). The front can be completely removed.

    .
  6. Disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal first, followed by the POSITIVE terminal (shown in red, or + sign, it's the part with the red cover)
    .
  7. Pull battery out and put new one in.
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  8. Apply grease to the terminals and drop in the terminal felt pads.
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  9. Connect the POSITIVE terminal first, followed by the NEGATIVE terminal (reverse order of Step 6, get it?). Hand-tighten everything.
    .
  10. Hook the J-Hook back into the hole pointed in photo 5 above, do the same for the front and hand tighten everything.
    .
  11. Re-attach the cowl, re-install the weatherstripping followed by the shroud, the pop-up plugs and finally the battery cover.

    Make sure all connections and brackets are held down tight, you do not want the battery or the cables loose.

Miscellaneous steps:
  • From the notes you made in step 1 above, add back all your radio station presets (On the '07 sedan, once you have made a station selection just press and hold the preset # on the radio until you hear a tone. Once you do, that # will then correspond to your station selection. Rinse and repeat.
    .
  • To reset your one-touch windows, push the window buttons down until fully open and hold for about 10 seconds. Now pull it up until it fully closes and hold for 10 seconds. Do this for each window.

That's it! It's seriously easy to do, it took me probably 3x longer to make this how-to than it took to actually replace the battery.


http://gshack.org/?p=181#more-181
 

Last edited by soundmike; 03-26-2010 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:31 PM
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SoundMike, I know this thread may not be a huge deal to many but it proved to be a lifesaver for me today. I jumped in my car this around 6pm pushed start and got this really weak start. So I turned it off and started it again just to make sure the first time wasn't a fluke. It started weak again, so I drove to Autozone purchased the battery knowing they would put it in. Once the guy popped the hood he said ma'am there is no way we can put this in, we would hav to remove the fuse box and we are not allowed to do that. I said "you gotta be kidding me!" So I took the battery and drove home, did a search on this site and followed it step by step. Fuse box slides right out of the holder, dude at autozone didn't even attempt to move it. The pics were awesome, big ups to G35driver forum and an awesome DIY post. I hate getting black grit under my nails but I don't have time for car troubles on a Monday so I was so glad to get this take care of today!

3 years and 54,458 miles factory battery said goodbye!
Thanks again!
 
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:25 AM
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You're welcome. I'm glad it came in handy and you were able to sort it out!
 
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:59 AM
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Very helpful instructions. Thanks! Just replaced my dying battery yesterday and added a Black Betty grounding kit while I was at it. Should also note that some comfort and covenience settings and trip odometers are affected by loss of battery power.

Thanks again.

2007 G35S Liquid Plat./Potenza RE760 Sports/Volo_performance V12 Chip/BB grounding kit/5000k xenon fog lamps
 

Last edited by eelizo; 12-05-2010 at 11:06 AM. Reason: typos
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:44 PM
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Thanks for these instructions, very helpful! The battery in my 2006 2dr died yesterday and I ended up replacing it using these steps. Definitely saved me some time because I would've lost the J hook for sure.

The only real difference on mine was the cowl located between the battery compartment and windshield. There was some type of wire hooked into mine that was very easy to pop out, and the cowl was actually easier to remove completely than pull to the side. Just pop apart the passenger side cowl from the driver side one and pull straight out. I also couldn't use the felt pads as my terminal connectors wouldn't fasten around the posts at that extra height.

Also... be sure to triple check what battery you bought. Autozone recommended the same thing you used here, the Duralast Gold 35-DLG. My receipt shows a 35-DLG. Only problem is that the guy pulled out a 25-DLG for me... Since it was the right size and everything I installed it without looking at the tag or the poles, until I started hooking up the connectors and sparks were flying. The 25 is basically the 35 with the poles reversed. I hadn't even looked because I assumed it was correct, but I had + on - and - on +. Luckily I didn't short out anything, but damn that could have been bad...
 
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:41 AM
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Used this DIY last night...wanted to make sure I was doing it the right way. I even grabbed the Duralast Gold and i want to say that my headlights and interior lights are brighter after the install - most likely all in my head. Either way thanks for the suggestions!
Thanks!
 
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:29 AM
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My oem battery went out so I got the Duralast gold from Autozone. The negative terminal fits nicely but when I tighten the bolt on the positive terminus, the connection is not tight and keeps coming off causing my car to shut down. Any suggestions for solutions? I was thinking of sanding down the ring so I can tighten the bolt more!
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 02:42 PM
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Just wanted to say that this DIY guide is excellent. I followed it to swap out my OEM with a Duralast Gold. Battery problems are now cured. Thanks for such a well written guide, soundmike. Can't get enough of this forum.
 
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:02 PM
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great diy
but you should add how heave the duralast battery is
i had a hard time lifting it up and putting it in my engine bay in the pouring rain haha
 
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:03 AM
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Rather than repeat history and buy OEM garbage, I went to a local autoparts store to buy a reputable battery. After the quest to buy a battery for my Range Rover, I foolishly believed the Infiniti would be simple.
I am not sure about the polarity issues but my OEM battery died last month....original to the car stamped July of 2003. OEM FTW! I did replace it with a Duralast Gold and I couldn't be more satisfied with that choice. Where did you go for a battery that couldn't tell you an exact drop in for your ride? "X" or not?
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:59 AM
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I changed the OEM battery to an Interstate battery (Mega-Tron Plus 24F) with lots of oomph.

NOTE: The positive terminal needs to be on the right hand side...that IS important in any battery you choose.

The procedure (2007 G35X) is as follows:

Remove the plastic housing of the battery compartment, by GENTLY lifting the center of plastic snap clips (flat head screwdriver to unlock them). They are the ones inside the compartment. There are a couple of others, one on the top of the fender and another holding the assembly, in the middle of the engine bay above the firewall.

Remove the compartment and then the gently pull away the rest of the assembly, where it is held by a retaining clip at the midpoint below the windshield. The weatherstrip is easily moved away. This exposes the battery entirely.

The retaining bar across the top of the battery, needs to be unbolted using a 10mm wrench if you do not have an extended socket.

Remove the retaining bar bolts front and back, completely. They are accessible on my model so they can be refitted at the end of the process. I say this, because the replacement battery is likely to be larger and you need NOTHING in your way to insert the replacement into the battery bay.

Unhitch the negative connector and tuck it to one side and then the positive terminal, red with all the electronics attached. You need to carefully move it aside, to make the space. It is all about having the space to put in the new battery.

After you put in the new battery, then replace the retaining bar, bolt it down. Reconnect positive terminal (the red) FIRST (to prevent arcing when you complete the circuit). Then reconnect the negative terminal.

Snap back the housing to the center of the assembly at the top of the engine bay (you can see where it fits) then reinstall the pop retainers (FIRST pull out the centers to unlock them) install them and then push in the centers to lock them in place. Then replace the battery compartment housing and replace the pop retainers.

Make sure you haven't left any tools anywhere, job completed.
 
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:36 PM
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What a great read you have shared with us. Replacing a car battery is really a DIY but a lot of us still doesn't know how to do it.
 
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Old 04-15-2011, 01:29 AM
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Bump! Changed my battery today for the first time using this DIY. Very helpful, made it extremely easy. Thanks!
 
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sunmind View Post
...

NOTE: The positive terminal needs to be on the right hand side...that IS important in any battery you choose.

...
Uhmm . . . Isn't that just a matter of rotating the battery 180* ?
 
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:36 PM
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^ But then the terminal cables might not reach. Especially the positive.
 

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