Yikes a bus!! eeeuuuuwwww!!! lol that would suck!!! Well ive just never had to use a torch on alumiun bodied diffs. not even on class 8 trucks ( which are steel) however ive learned the hard way on "other" area's of vehicles.... just not on diffs, and transfer cases....

 

it was not on the G(i learned my lesson well before it ) it was on my used 98 cherokee with semi rusted steel diff cover(which i think was aftermarket) got a cheap ~$20 torch which was all i could find which does not create the heat youd like but turned out to be optimal for the job as nothing else would work...

 

Sounds like you got it though! and didnt give up!! thats how we sometimes really learn!!

 

Good morning guys, I am here for an update; I did the fluids yesterday and reporting back....
for the front and rear diffs I used castrol synt. 75W-90 (1.5 ltrs rear and 0.7ltrs front). For the transfer case got Nissan D and used only 1 ltr ( I let it drain well and then filled until started to drip....) I thought I needed about 1.5???
And for the transmission I used Nissan J and after drained and measured what came out I end up using 3.5ltr....
Should I be concern only getting 1 ltr into the transfer case?

 

I think your good,, they don't hold much, as long as car was level, should be good,, prolly wound't hurt to check it again.....

 

Thanks Triton, yep everything looks good no leaks, after the fluid change I cleaned everything well with brake cleaner and no mess that I can see..... I really feel no change on the car, but to be honest at 59.000kms all the fluids were very clean, there was not even a bit of dirt or anything on the magnets....
overkill??? well it's give me peace of mind...

 

I was servicing 2007 G35X and looked in the owners manual. For transfer case it said use Matic-D, which is what I used.
thanks
Max

 

Thanks to the OP, it took most of the guess work out of the procedure. To give back to the forum, I am posting pictures of different units.
Used Nissan Matic-S ATF, Matic-D for transfer case, Mobil 1 75w90 for differentials.
For transmission, I did drain and fill 3 times. Went through 10.5 quarts of the fluid. I drove the car for 5+ miles rowing through gears, to mix the fluid.
For transfer case, I put in around 1.2 quarts of the fluid.
For rear differential, I put in around 1.9 quarts of the fluid.
For front differential, I put in around 0.8 quarts of the fluid.
Make sure the car is level when you are putting the fluids, stop once the fluid starts coming out of the fill plug.

Here is transmission pan:



Here is Transfer case drain:



Here is Transfer case fill:



Transfer case plugs:

 

Here is rear and front differentials and the drain and fill plugs. Note the plugs are as they came out at 100k miles. Clean the magnet plug before putting it back in:

Rear differential


Rear differential plugs


Front differential


Front differential plugs

 

Thank you maxud for the visual aids!

 

Great write up, thanks!

 

I've successfully performed a Front & Rear Diff fluid change thanks to this write-up.

I've also performed a DIY power steering flush.
I was unable to take pictures of the process, but it was actually really easy...albeit messy:

TOOLS NEEDED:

-a pair of pliers

-2 quarts of your favorite ATF

- An empty 1 QT bottle / small container

OPTIONAL:
-4 feet of 3/8" hose & a hose mender


1.) Jack up the car so that the front wheels are off the ground & put the ignition into the "ON" position.
This will allow you to move the steering wheel lock to lock to pump the old fluid out of the return line.
(this method allows you to manually pump the old fluid out at your own pace, instead of the very high pressure that the PS pump would generate if the car was running)


2.) Remove the pass side air box & the wiper fluid filler tube.

3.) At this point, you should clearly see two hoses coming out of the PS reservoir.
The hose that leads straight to the PS pump is the high-pressure or "feed" line.
The hose that you'd need to disconnect is the one that's going down into the wheel well
(aka, return line)

4.) Use a turkey baster or any other suction tool to suck out the fluid from the top level of the reservoir. (otherwise it'll pour out as you attempt to disconnect the return line)

5.) Put something down under the reservoir to catch any spill-over & disconnect the return line form the reservoir.

6.) A this point, it'd help to have a short 3/8" hose to connect to the reservoir in place of the return line & plug or cap off the end (otherwise the new fluid that you pour in is going to leak out of there).

7.)Prepare an empty 1 QT bottle & point the return line that you've disconnected into it.
This bottle will catch the old fluid as it drains out.
-Optionally, you may purchase a length of 3/8" hose to attach to the return line using a 3/8" hose mender (this will make it easier to extend the return line out of the engine bay to make the draining process easier):

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/x...erm=3%2F8+hose

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...erm=3%2F8+hose

8.) At this point, refill the reservoir with fresh ATF up to the "cool max" line and have a helper start turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock. As they do that, you will see the old fluid coming out of the return line & into the empty bottle. Keep an eye on the fluid level and keep re-filling it as your helper turns the steering wheel, until you've gone through a full quart of ATF and your catch bottle is full. One quart should be enough to flush out your PS system. If you've been neglecting your fluids, it should be very easy for you to tell when you're fully flushed: the fluid coming out of the return line should be coming out clear RED instead of brown.

9.) You may now suck out/drain the top-level of the reservoir as to avoid any major spills as you disconnect your "capped" 3/8" hose from the reservoir.

10.) Disconnect your "capped" hose from the PS reservoir & re-attach the return line.

11.) Refill your reservoir with up to the "max cool" line & start you car. If you've attached everything correctly, you shouldn't see any leaks. Go for a little drive to warm up the fluid & check the PS fluid level. It should be at the "max hot" line. Add/remove some fluid if it's not.


CONGRATS!! You have now performed a power steering fluid flush, saving yourself $130!!

 

Great info here guys!! Thanks.

 

The manual seems to call for 80W90 gear oil in the differentials, yet everyone here seems to agree on putting 75W90 in. Is there a reason for that besides 75W90 being more common in other cars differentials?

 

Can someone tell me what Torx size is needed to remove the transfer case drain? It appears to be Torx and my T50 was too small.

Thx!!