DIY: Quick 'n Easy Power Steering Fluid Change
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
DIY: Quick 'n Easy Power Steering Fluid Change
Another share for y'all 
http://gshack.org/?p=272 -- with more pics
There are two methods to replace the fluid, we’ll do it the trademarked GShack Quick ‘n Easy way
FWIW, our local dealership charges $110++ for a flush. This accomplishes most of what the flush does, for a mere fraction of that cost.
Tools/Parts Needed:
* A fluid transfer pump, similar to what we used in the differential how-to. You can also try a syringe or turkey baster with a flex pipe attached to the end
* DEXRON III/MERCON compatible ATF (or DEXRON VI), we used Mobil 1
* A funnel
* Some rags to wipe up messes, if any
Steps:
1. Open cap by turning to where the caps protrusions line up with the level markers
2. Using your preferred tool, suck the fluid out
3. Fill with your preferred fluid to either cold or hot level
4. Start and warm up the engine, then turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to get the fluid to circulate
5. Turn off engine
6. Repeat steps 1-5 two or three more times. I only did it three times with just a little bit left in the bottle. The difference in steering feel during the road test was quite noticeable.
7. Verify after your test drive that the fluid level is where it should be.
Edit: There is further discussion on page 2 by malton, vqsmile, TomPeters and kool_yaar. malton has also shared a chart that shows the ideal amount of fluid to use to flush out as much of the old fluid as possible. This is especially good information to have for those who want to do the flush in a short period of time. https://g35driver.com/forums/5818219-post20.html
Notice the difference between old and new fluid.
Old fluid

New fluid

http://gshack.org/?p=272 -- with more pics
There are two methods to replace the fluid, we’ll do it the trademarked GShack Quick ‘n Easy way

FWIW, our local dealership charges $110++ for a flush. This accomplishes most of what the flush does, for a mere fraction of that cost.
Tools/Parts Needed:
* A fluid transfer pump, similar to what we used in the differential how-to. You can also try a syringe or turkey baster with a flex pipe attached to the end
* DEXRON III/MERCON compatible ATF (or DEXRON VI), we used Mobil 1
* A funnel
* Some rags to wipe up messes, if any
Steps:
1. Open cap by turning to where the caps protrusions line up with the level markers
2. Using your preferred tool, suck the fluid out
3. Fill with your preferred fluid to either cold or hot level
4. Start and warm up the engine, then turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to get the fluid to circulate
5. Turn off engine
6. Repeat steps 1-5 two or three more times. I only did it three times with just a little bit left in the bottle. The difference in steering feel during the road test was quite noticeable.
7. Verify after your test drive that the fluid level is where it should be.
Edit: There is further discussion on page 2 by malton, vqsmile, TomPeters and kool_yaar. malton has also shared a chart that shows the ideal amount of fluid to use to flush out as much of the old fluid as possible. This is especially good information to have for those who want to do the flush in a short period of time. https://g35driver.com/forums/5818219-post20.html
Notice the difference between old and new fluid.
Old fluid

New fluid
Last edited by soundmike; Apr 17, 2011 at 08:18 AM.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

C'mon man read the posts and you won't look so silly.
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This DIY seems like a simple and effective way to accomplish the task. On other cars, I've seen the technique used of opening the return hose (from the pump to the reservoir) and pumping out the old into a pan while someone constantly refills the reservoir with new fluid. Theoretically, that would yield nearly 100% fluid change, but I think this method is more than sufficient and will yield indistinguishable results in terms of PS longevity and reliability. Good job Mike!
^ thats how iv always done my PS changes thus far (return hose) and its always resulted in some mess at least, ever since i learned this suction refill trick about a few years back iv been using it for my clutch and PS on my cars and they have been a time saver and much cleaner and easier, takes a few times to do it but is worth it and you can get the fluid to be nearly brand new with enough suction/fill.
Nice share by mike as usual, i love his gshack site which has very useful/detailed DIY and infos.
Nice share by mike as usual, i love his gshack site which has very useful/detailed DIY and infos.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
Thanks for the comments and for chiming-in, guys. 
All this talk of suction makes me wonder, wouldn't it be nice if automakers would make fluid drains/refills more efficient? I like what VW has done with their 2.0's with the oil filter accessible in the engine bay, right at the top (although you still have to drain from below).
Imagine if there are just a bunch of drain valves for various fluids lined-up, within easy access, and the same thing for fill-tubes?
Ah, wishful thinking.

All this talk of suction makes me wonder, wouldn't it be nice if automakers would make fluid drains/refills more efficient? I like what VW has done with their 2.0's with the oil filter accessible in the engine bay, right at the top (although you still have to drain from below).
Imagine if there are just a bunch of drain valves for various fluids lined-up, within easy access, and the same thing for fill-tubes?
Ah, wishful thinking.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 213
From: Inside my G
Good point. 
The whole system uses up just a little over a quart, i plan on doing this every other oil change (or roughly 15-17k miles), so a full quart with each instance should be more than enough preventive maintenance.

The whole system uses up just a little over a quart, i plan on doing this every other oil change (or roughly 15-17k miles), so a full quart with each instance should be more than enough preventive maintenance.



