Preface: This DIY shows how to do it on the Akebono's, or any caliper that has two bleed nipples. However, the procedure is the same across the board, including the order of which caliper to bleed from first to last.

This is just a quick how-to on bleeding using the Motive Power Bleeder a.k.a One-man “power” bleeding.

Tools:

• Motive Power Bleeder (Part #0107) – this has the cap that fits perfectly on your brake fluid reservoir. This is not the universal kit with the j-hooks and whatnot. The kit will include another piece of clear tubing to route fluid from the bleeder valve to your waste container.
• Brake fluid of your choice (We use Valvoline DOT 3&4)
• Open-ended or box wrench, size will vary according to your bleeder valve
• Turkey baster, or your preferred sucking tool
• A waste container
• Rags, for wiping
• Possibly some water, to rinse things down in case you get brake fluid on any painted area. Remember: Brake fluid eats through paint.

Steps:

1. Jack the car up on all four corners. Be sure to place jack stands on the recommended jack points (i.e. side rails). You can leave your jack situated where you want, in the pic below it’s still firmly holding the rear differential in place.
2. Remove all four wheels and set aside
   
   The Hover G!
   
   
   
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal (I've done it both ways, connected and disconnected and haven't really noticed anything different -- just my 2c.)
4. Suck up all the old fluid from the reservoir
5. Fill with fresh fluid then attached Motive cap
6. Fill the bleeder with approx. 2qts of fresh fluid and tighten cover
7. Pump to 15psi
8. Bleed away. The recommended order is passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front. If you have dual bleeder screws like those in the Akebono, bleed the inside first, followed by the outside.
9. Hand tigthen the bleeders, careful not to overtighten as they can strip.
10. Re-mount your wheels, lower the car and torque back the lugnuts down to 81 ft./lbs.
11. Remove the Power Bleeder by slowly opening the main cover on the bottle, remember this is under pressure.
12. Remove the Power Bleeder cap on the brake fluid reservoir, fill it up back up to “Max” and cover it back up with the OEM cover.

More pics are on the site -- http://gshack.org/?p=288

 

great DIY as usual! love the hover G!!!

 

I have one of these bleeders that I have used a few times for BMW's, Lexus, and Jeep. It's definitely the only way go. I will NEVER go back to the old methods after using one of these. If you have other cars and you're thinking of buying one of these, you may want to look into the different multi-adapter kits they offer to better suit all your needs.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.c...ters_c_13.html

 

part 0107 is labeled as Ford, is that the correct part?

 

I believe it is. Here's an excerpt from the description:

Designed for direct fit for late model Ford hydraulic brake or clutch system that use a cap with 3 locking tabs. This kit comes with adapter 1107 and has 3 feet of tubing. Also fits many late model Nissan, Mitsubishi, Subaru and Hyundai reservoirs that use a 3 prong cap. Comes with our full 1 year warranty.

 

Question soundmike, can I do this myself with the power bleeder or do I need a buddy? Dealer said mine needs it... I was able to do the other fluids with the fluid pump/refill a bunch of times method. I have 2 nissans(v36 g35 and 2010 altima) and a toyota tundra, so I'm thinking this is worth the investment.

 

^^ why would you need a buddy?

(the pressurized bottle is your buddy)

 

wasn't sure if somone needed to pump it up to keep pressure while the other is bleeding the brakes? Or it keeps pressure long enough (it sounds like this does) where I pump it up to start, bleed each brake, then re pressurize for next one?

 

^^ This

I actually go to 20 psi and can easily get through a couple calipers at a time.

 

nice.. how much fluid do I need to do all 4 calipers? FSM doesn't really say on the chart just ---. I'm waiting to hear back from the motive folks on what adapter I need to use this thing on my tundra and I'm going to order one. It makes sense, if the dealer charges 90$ a car * 3 cars = 270 vs. ~89 + fluid cost for DIY

ather spend my money on upgrades or big ticket items I can't do myself (like clutch).

 

I bought two quarts and it was more than enough. I still didn't go through all of the second one though. It is somewhat relative to how much you're purging out of it too though. As my fluid wasn't too dirty, just old, there wasn't such a obvious indication as to when the fluid went "clear", so I just flushed to bit extra to be on the safe side. On other cars I've done, where the fluid was really dark, it was quite easy to know when you got all the old fluid out.

In the past, I used to dread bleeding my brakes because my wife hated pumping the pedal, but now it's no thang at all.

 

There you go with all the answers. Awesome!

VQ is correct, the pressure holds steady for quite some time. You can do a simple replenishment with a single large bottle. I add another small bottle in there to keep the fluid level inside the bottle high enough -- the only downside to this method, fluid waste.

Last time i did a full fluid swap, took me 2-1/2 large bottles.

 

right now i dont have money to get the power bleeder, so how would the process change if im using somebody to pump the brakes? i couldnt find a diy on it without the pump thing

 

It's easy!

Two people method:
- Person 1 (p1) pumps the brake pedal, then holds it down, while
- Person 2 (p2) opens the bleeder valve for a few seconds, closes it then signals p1 to lift

Repeat a couple of times or as many times as you want per corner. Same order and same hardware/tool requirements.

 

The two person pedal method is basically the same for any car. Just look for a good DIY on brake bleeding regardless of what kind of car it is. No need to get hung up on the fact that it's a G, there's nothing peculiar or special about their brake system that you'd need to worry about.