so is one bleed per brake enough normally enough? assuming i make no mistakes and there no bubbles normally just 1 bleed per brake right? the reason i ask is i wont be able to get all 4 wheels in the air and will have to jack a side at a time.

 

I usually go around a couple of times, but in your case... https://g35driver.com/forums/6678570-post27.html

 

Yeah, with that power bleeder, once should be enough if you do them in the proper order.

I've never had to make more than the one pass except for one time when I replaced the ABS pump on a BMW. Once the lines were opened to it, air gets in the pump and can't be bled unless you cycle the ABS's internal valves (which takes some sophisticated diag equipment I don't have to talk to the ABS). So instead, I just bled the brakes once, went for a drive and repeatedly slammed on the brakes invoking the ABS system repeatedly and thereby pushed the trapped air out of the pump. Then just one more bleed at the calipers and it was done. Gotta love that power bleeder; one of the best tool purchases I ever made.

 

idk seems like so long u keep the fluid from going empty and pour the oil slowly and carefully no air should get in from the resevoir. for the valve jus loosen slowly till fluid comes out. no need to loosen alot. i havent dont the brakes yet but when i did the clutch i had jus did it carefully. i would guess brakes are the same and i should be good with one pass

 

Question:

I am still a little confused about using DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, which one should I use?

And also, do I need to warm up the car before changing out brake fluid or I can do it with the car still cold?

WIll 1 liter be enough to bleed all four corners?

Thanks

 

So I purchased a motive bleeder #0107 and the cap will not lock on my 2003 G sedans fluid reservoir. The cap has the 3 tabs on it, but will not lock into place. Does anyone know if the early model G's have the same brake fluid reservoirs as the later models?

 

Two thoughts:

Did you try this method to seal the cap (straight from the website):

Adapter 1107 has three locking tabs, please check your brake fluid reservoir cap for compatibility. Note: this cap can be difficult to connect to the reservoir, it is designed for a tight seal, attaching the cap is a three step process
1) Align tabs with cutouts on reservoir
2) Push cap down until it seats
3) Twist to seal.
The cap will not connect to your reservoir if you push and twist at the same time.

and

Many Nissan, Infinity, Mistubishi, Subaru, KIA, and Hyundai models built after the late 1990s also use the Ford 1107/1117 adapter. This cap is a twist to lock cap, it will twist about 1/4 turn and the underside of the cap has three locking tabs that engage cutouts on the reservoir neck. The 1107/1117 adapter is included in the 0107/0117 kits. Please check this link to make sure the dimensions of your cap are equivalent to the 1107/1117 (http://www.motiveproducts.com/CAPS.html) If your cap is not similar to the 1107/1117 then you can probably either use the European type caps or use the universal adapter 1101 that is included with kit 0101. If it is a round threaded cap with a 45mm inner diameter it can use the European 0100/0109 kits which include the 1100/1109 adapters. If it is not similar to the European or the Ford cap then you will need to use the 0101 universal Kit - also please check that the brake fluid reservoir is easily accessible and that it is not under the cowl as the 0101 requires easy access to the brake fluid reservoir. If you have any questions please call or email.

Phone:
408.846.8800

 

^Thanks for the info. I think I didn't press down enough before trying to twist the cap on. I will give it another go on my day off tomorrow.

 

Do you HAVE to bleed the brakes to change rotors and pads or could you do it without? I've searched and couldn't find an answer

 

You can do the pads change without bleeding the brakes, I imagine its the same for rotors.

 

Ok that's what I wanted to know. Thanks!

 

You absolutely DO NOT. Just remember you WILL have to compress the piston/s into the caliper to fit the new (thicker) pads around the rotors.

 

Yea hats what I figured and I was pretty sure I didn't have to but I wanted to make sure