TechnoSquare 2008 Sedan ECU RE-Flash
#16
Originally Posted by terrycs
If the 283 WHp was on a 5AT ... that is a MAJOR increase from the TS reflash.
Let me put this into perspective, my car with the same FI exhaust and stock intakes did 252 WHp and 259 WHp, each on two different dynos.
That easily makes the TS reflash the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to bolt-ons.
Let me put this into perspective, my car with the same FI exhaust and stock intakes did 252 WHp and 259 WHp, each on two different dynos.
That easily makes the TS reflash the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to bolt-ons.
#17
Originally Posted by silverG2007
"The max A/F with the tune is 13.9 versus 14.9 in the stock mode. "
Explain this for me please. At what point is this?
The lower the number, the more "rich" the car is running. Stock, at part throttle, you should be around 14.7 to 1. At full throttle, 12.5:1 is a safe tune. You can go slightly leaner than that at full throttle and gain power, but you'll risk detonation.
If you change stoich (14.7:1) at part throttle, you'll kill your fuel economy.
Also, did they do any part throttle tuning? Adding timing there is where you can get the best SOTP results from a tune.
Explain this for me please. At what point is this?
The lower the number, the more "rich" the car is running. Stock, at part throttle, you should be around 14.7 to 1. At full throttle, 12.5:1 is a safe tune. You can go slightly leaner than that at full throttle and gain power, but you'll risk detonation.
If you change stoich (14.7:1) at part throttle, you'll kill your fuel economy.
Also, did they do any part throttle tuning? Adding timing there is where you can get the best SOTP results from a tune.
It would help if we could get Tadashi in here to better explain some things.
#19
Originally Posted by silverG2007
"The max A/F with the tune is 13.9 versus 14.9 in the stock mode. "
Explain this for me please. At what point is this?
The lower the number, the more "rich" the car is running. Stock, at part throttle, you should be around 14.7 to 1. At full throttle, 12.5:1 is a safe tune. You can go slightly leaner than that at full throttle and gain power, but you'll risk detonation.
If you change stoich (14.7:1) at part throttle, you'll kill your fuel economy.
Also, did they do any part throttle tuning? Adding timing there is where you can get the best SOTP results from a tune.
Explain this for me please. At what point is this?
The lower the number, the more "rich" the car is running. Stock, at part throttle, you should be around 14.7 to 1. At full throttle, 12.5:1 is a safe tune. You can go slightly leaner than that at full throttle and gain power, but you'll risk detonation.
If you change stoich (14.7:1) at part throttle, you'll kill your fuel economy.
Also, did they do any part throttle tuning? Adding timing there is where you can get the best SOTP results from a tune.
#20
looks like peak gain is little less than 10 hp increase but the power curve looks much better which is very important for acceleration.
Another thing that i noticed is that stock, the car's peak power came at ~7200rpm which is not suppose to happen. Isn't the HR make its peak HP at 6800 rpm which is the case after the reflash.
Another thing that i noticed is that stock, the car's peak power came at ~7200rpm which is not suppose to happen. Isn't the HR make its peak HP at 6800 rpm which is the case after the reflash.
#21
Originally Posted by rookie
Timing is a big factor in making power, not just AFR. If running slighting richer and a degree or two more timing makes the power it makes the power. Anything WOT and 14 is dangerous, AF readings after cats are going to be 1 point or so on the lean side as well.
I'm just trying to see what he was talking about with this comment: ""The max A/F with the tune is 13.9 versus 14.9 in the stock mode. "
It doesn't make sense. Maybe he was just looking at the wideband readouts on the dyno and it read some wierd numbers during throttle transitions.
#22
Originally Posted by terrycs
If the 283 WHp was on a 5AT ... that is a MAJOR increase from the TS reflash.
Let me put this into perspective, my car with the same FI exhaust and stock intakes did 252 WHp and 259 WHp, each on two different dynos.
That easily makes the TS reflash the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to bolt-ons.
Let me put this into perspective, my car with the same FI exhaust and stock intakes did 252 WHp and 259 WHp, each on two different dynos.
That easily makes the TS reflash the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to bolt-ons.
You can't compare different cars on different dynos on different days.
Dynos are a tuning tool, you can't use the numbers as "absolute."
Just the fact that you showed a 7whp difference with the same car should show you how you can't compare.
#23
Originally Posted by silverG2007
I thought he said he only gained 10rwhp and 13rwtq.
You can't compare different cars on different dynos on different days.
Dynos are a tuning tool, you can't use the numbers as "absolute."
Just the fact that you showed a 7whp difference with the same car should show you how you can't compare.
You can't compare different cars on different dynos on different days.
Dynos are a tuning tool, you can't use the numbers as "absolute."
Just the fact that you showed a 7whp difference with the same car should show you how you can't compare.
It was my bad for reading 283 WHp and not opening the jpgs before I posted. I assumed his baselines was the same range as mine since we had similar mods.
So John, does this mean you won't be next in line at GTM?
#24
I’ll try and answer as many of these as I can in one post.
I believe the re-flash price is $550. Check with TechnoSquare 310-787-0847 for accurate pricing or their website http://www.technosquareinc.com/.
I’m not an automotive engineer, but from what Tadashi told me, my fuel economy will be better. I do not know if it is timing or A/F. I’ll check economy over the next few weeks, but I did not do this for economy, the car performs exceptionally better, I’m extremely pleased with the result.
Max power came on at 6800 RPM, followed closely by the torque and maintained at that level through 7500 RPM. Review the charts through the range, it tells the whole story. The power and torque curves are strong.
A word on the issue with intakes. First everyone has an opinion and one has to decide based upon their own research and opinion how to deal with the intake. In my particular case I love the sound, but not at the expense of performance. No two dynos will read alike, they’re tools for tuning. So if you want to know, do a comparison. If you like the sound and don’t care about the performance leave it on. If the loss in power bothers you, go back to stock.
Now for a word or two on Tadashi and TechnoSquare. I would do some research on Tadashi if you have any questions on his ability. Tadashi is a wizard at computer programming and an electrical engineer, plus a car guy. Tadashi is the founder of G-Force engineering which specialized in Toyota MR2Turbo tuning. He is the U.S. distributor for Techtom, the Japanese company that specializes in electronics and computer interfaces for tuners of most Japanese auto models. He is a master in his field, and he does much more than tune a few cars. He can provide specifics on why he does not like the after market intakes. All I can say is run comparisons and you will see for yourself. Tadashi does not nix them or say you shouldn’t have them. But if you’re looking for better performance, he will tell you the modern engine controls will end up doing the exact opposite of what you would expect the intake to do, that’s the problem and it cannot be corrected in the tuning. It has something do with the Mass Air Sensor (MAS), velocity, and volume. The increased volume in the aftermarket intake reduces velocity, increases volume of air, and as a result the MAS adjusts as it believe it has more air than it needs but it is not moving fast enough.
I believe the re-flash price is $550. Check with TechnoSquare 310-787-0847 for accurate pricing or their website http://www.technosquareinc.com/.
I’m not an automotive engineer, but from what Tadashi told me, my fuel economy will be better. I do not know if it is timing or A/F. I’ll check economy over the next few weeks, but I did not do this for economy, the car performs exceptionally better, I’m extremely pleased with the result.
Max power came on at 6800 RPM, followed closely by the torque and maintained at that level through 7500 RPM. Review the charts through the range, it tells the whole story. The power and torque curves are strong.
A word on the issue with intakes. First everyone has an opinion and one has to decide based upon their own research and opinion how to deal with the intake. In my particular case I love the sound, but not at the expense of performance. No two dynos will read alike, they’re tools for tuning. So if you want to know, do a comparison. If you like the sound and don’t care about the performance leave it on. If the loss in power bothers you, go back to stock.
Now for a word or two on Tadashi and TechnoSquare. I would do some research on Tadashi if you have any questions on his ability. Tadashi is a wizard at computer programming and an electrical engineer, plus a car guy. Tadashi is the founder of G-Force engineering which specialized in Toyota MR2Turbo tuning. He is the U.S. distributor for Techtom, the Japanese company that specializes in electronics and computer interfaces for tuners of most Japanese auto models. He is a master in his field, and he does much more than tune a few cars. He can provide specifics on why he does not like the after market intakes. All I can say is run comparisons and you will see for yourself. Tadashi does not nix them or say you shouldn’t have them. But if you’re looking for better performance, he will tell you the modern engine controls will end up doing the exact opposite of what you would expect the intake to do, that’s the problem and it cannot be corrected in the tuning. It has something do with the Mass Air Sensor (MAS), velocity, and volume. The increased volume in the aftermarket intake reduces velocity, increases volume of air, and as a result the MAS adjusts as it believe it has more air than it needs but it is not moving fast enough.
#25
Nissan tuned a rich mixture next to redline for a reason. The reason is to prevent knocking by cooling the combustion temperatures. They play safe. The question is what impact will this reflash have? Is it going to knock like hell in hot Californian summer day while doing spirited driving?
#26
Most reflashes (especially ones that are NOT CUSTOM) are still mild tunes. They're going to play it safe on the A/F as well as timing so that you don't knock when it's hot out, etc.
But, after reflash, I'd steer clear of 87 octane like the plague.
That's all that a tune is really, just playing it "less safe." Leaner and more timing to make more power (on a stock car).
When you're modified and change the airflow in any way, a tune is to teach your computer to compensate for the modification.
But, after reflash, I'd steer clear of 87 octane like the plague.
That's all that a tune is really, just playing it "less safe." Leaner and more timing to make more power (on a stock car).
When you're modified and change the airflow in any way, a tune is to teach your computer to compensate for the modification.
#27
for the money involved and risk associated with it....I'd look for a REPUTABLE tuner within driving distance and get some type of monitored road tune. Real tires on real road. Although most of these people going with these "mail tunes" are pretty basic in regards to mods, I'd still like the a/f and knock sensors checked out on a real world surface. JMO
#28