Black Betty Ground Kit
Appreciate your input, I also appreciate your candor and being honest about the possiblility that it might not be doing much at all.
Our infiniti shifts very quickly and throttle response is very quick, so I'm not sure what more these things can do.
Our infiniti shifts very quickly and throttle response is very quick, so I'm not sure what more these things can do.
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I will admit though that after the grounding kit was installed, the shift is faster.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Toronto, Canada
The nut is a self locking M6-1,0 found at you local parts store. I think it may be a good idea to provide this with the kit to prevent a trip to the parts store.
This is what I did.... I piggy backed the existing bolt. With everything in place and tight there is sufficient thread left over. I am happy with that. The problem I have now is the terminal stretched from trying the ground wires in the middle of the clamp. I now have to reshape it to make it fit or just put a shim over the post.
I have to say.... it was a very easy install with nothing to it. But I am not impressed the initial instructions on how everything connected to the battery. I hope this post prevents any future issues with owners that are as **** me. I know I am not going to make any friends when I say this, but looking back at it now I should have kept my $90. The battery connection was way too much of a PITA.... round pegs do not fit into square holes, it is just that simple.
With a test drive out of the way nothing that noticeable after all is said and done. But then again when it comes to mods I am really really really picky. I could be missing something and I will give it a chance.
Good luck to future installers, it is easy but remember get a M6-1,0 to piggy back the connection on the bolt.
This is what I did.... I piggy backed the existing bolt. With everything in place and tight there is sufficient thread left over. I am happy with that. The problem I have now is the terminal stretched from trying the ground wires in the middle of the clamp. I now have to reshape it to make it fit or just put a shim over the post.
I have to say.... it was a very easy install with nothing to it. But I am not impressed the initial instructions on how everything connected to the battery. I hope this post prevents any future issues with owners that are as **** me. I know I am not going to make any friends when I say this, but looking back at it now I should have kept my $90. The battery connection was way too much of a PITA.... round pegs do not fit into square holes, it is just that simple.
With a test drive out of the way nothing that noticeable after all is said and done. But then again when it comes to mods I am really really really picky. I could be missing something and I will give it a chance.
Good luck to future installers, it is easy but remember get a M6-1,0 to piggy back the connection on the bolt.
I am interested to see how this set up looks like and if I need to do this. Thanks.
Guys,
Sorry to have missed the conversation on fitment issues at the battery post. I haven't checked this thread in several days and didn't notice that you were having problems. My bad. Please PM or email me here or on myg37 regarding any issues as I will definitely do my best to help fix issues.
LightYearG35X, I originally used different terminals as you can see in the installation photos of my car. I use different ones now, they are round and not flat on the sides. On the original ones I used, the tang of the terminal was far too thick for my liking. They are now discontinued.
There are 2 separate terminals that attach to the battery and they can't be placed between the clamp sides because it won't tighten enough to stay secure as you found out. Here's a photo of an install of the 2 terminals on a 1st gen.
Here are photos of the install on my own car ('08 G37 Coupe)
There are not 3 threads sticking out the back of the nut. I've never worked on airplanes, just cars. If this connections were weight bearing or holding something heavy or under a lot of tension I could certainly see a desire for that but it's a battery clamp and I didn't see any need to strengthen it any more than it is, even with no threads sticking out the back of the nut. I suppose a longer bolt certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but it's never come loose on me and mine was the first one ever installed. The tang on the terminals I use now are much thinner and may actually have a few threads extending through the nut.
I'm still not completely sure what wasn't fitting properly on yours LightYearG35X. Did you piggy back a locking nut on the end of the bolt behind the OEM nut? Could you PM me a couple of good close up in focus photos of the issue? Also of the nut that you found and installed that "fixed" it? I'd be most grateful.
AesonVirus, I may experiment with terminating all wires into a single terminal as you suggested and see if it works out.
As far as expectations, I certainly don't want anyone to be disappointed. To avoid that, you should have only these expectations:
Quicker AT shifting (particularly in D mode). From feedback I receive, the improvement is best in D mode and less in DS or Manual shift mode but still an improvement. I have a 6MT so I can only relay feedback from customers. How much quicker? I can't give you an answer in milliseconds but enough to notice.
Improved throttle response and smoother idle. Again, really difficult to quantify. Shifting and throttle response are already pretty darn good on these cars so if you are completely satisfied with it as it is, keep your money and don't be disappointed.
Improved electronic component performance. Brighter lights. Less dimming on heavy bass notes (if you have aftermarket amplifiers). I personally didn't notice any increase in stereo volume and have never made that claim, but a number of users have reported it. I'm not sure that it will make enough difference to notice there.
If you have interest in these, I have a vendor thread on myg37.com and also installation DIY's posted for the 1st gen and 2nd gen kits.
Sorry to have missed the conversation on fitment issues at the battery post. I haven't checked this thread in several days and didn't notice that you were having problems. My bad. Please PM or email me here or on myg37 regarding any issues as I will definitely do my best to help fix issues.
LightYearG35X, I originally used different terminals as you can see in the installation photos of my car. I use different ones now, they are round and not flat on the sides. On the original ones I used, the tang of the terminal was far too thick for my liking. They are now discontinued.
There are 2 separate terminals that attach to the battery and they can't be placed between the clamp sides because it won't tighten enough to stay secure as you found out. Here's a photo of an install of the 2 terminals on a 1st gen.
Here are photos of the install on my own car ('08 G37 Coupe)
There are not 3 threads sticking out the back of the nut. I've never worked on airplanes, just cars. If this connections were weight bearing or holding something heavy or under a lot of tension I could certainly see a desire for that but it's a battery clamp and I didn't see any need to strengthen it any more than it is, even with no threads sticking out the back of the nut. I suppose a longer bolt certainly wouldn't hurt anything, but it's never come loose on me and mine was the first one ever installed. The tang on the terminals I use now are much thinner and may actually have a few threads extending through the nut.
I'm still not completely sure what wasn't fitting properly on yours LightYearG35X. Did you piggy back a locking nut on the end of the bolt behind the OEM nut? Could you PM me a couple of good close up in focus photos of the issue? Also of the nut that you found and installed that "fixed" it? I'd be most grateful.
AesonVirus, I may experiment with terminating all wires into a single terminal as you suggested and see if it works out.
As far as expectations, I certainly don't want anyone to be disappointed. To avoid that, you should have only these expectations:
Quicker AT shifting (particularly in D mode). From feedback I receive, the improvement is best in D mode and less in DS or Manual shift mode but still an improvement. I have a 6MT so I can only relay feedback from customers. How much quicker? I can't give you an answer in milliseconds but enough to notice.
Improved throttle response and smoother idle. Again, really difficult to quantify. Shifting and throttle response are already pretty darn good on these cars so if you are completely satisfied with it as it is, keep your money and don't be disappointed.
Improved electronic component performance. Brighter lights. Less dimming on heavy bass notes (if you have aftermarket amplifiers). I personally didn't notice any increase in stereo volume and have never made that claim, but a number of users have reported it. I'm not sure that it will make enough difference to notice there.
If you have interest in these, I have a vendor thread on myg37.com and also installation DIY's posted for the 1st gen and 2nd gen kits.
Last edited by Black Betty; Mar 4, 2009 at 07:38 PM.
Blackbetty -=- i appreciate your honesty and practicality .. makes me wanna buy your product more, LOL!
My only thought is this.. i'm a guy that keeps our cars for > 6 years... and i'm wondering, if there is some shift "delay" between gears, perhaps it was engineered this way by Infiniti such that there is less wear and tear between shifts on the clutch packs, etc ...
Quicker shifts are wonderful, but if over time they cause more wear and tear, well, that's not as cool. Just a thought. It's interesting that better electrical grounding preferentially allows the transmission to shift quicker...
When i was going through 5AT after 5AT in my 2002 Acura TL Type S (manufacturer defect in that generation tranny), Acura would keep retarding the shifting speed and the rev limit on my tranny until the tranny was more reliable. They kept stating that the quick shifting tranny (as my current TL definitely is, 5AT) generated more heat over time and led to more wear and tear, and in the specific case of the TL Type S, transmission destruction.
My only thought is this.. i'm a guy that keeps our cars for > 6 years... and i'm wondering, if there is some shift "delay" between gears, perhaps it was engineered this way by Infiniti such that there is less wear and tear between shifts on the clutch packs, etc ...
Quicker shifts are wonderful, but if over time they cause more wear and tear, well, that's not as cool. Just a thought. It's interesting that better electrical grounding preferentially allows the transmission to shift quicker...
When i was going through 5AT after 5AT in my 2002 Acura TL Type S (manufacturer defect in that generation tranny), Acura would keep retarding the shifting speed and the rev limit on my tranny until the tranny was more reliable. They kept stating that the quick shifting tranny (as my current TL definitely is, 5AT) generated more heat over time and led to more wear and tear, and in the specific case of the TL Type S, transmission destruction.
My first grounding kit is a 0 AWG that's still on my '96 Maxima. Still working just fine with over 212K on the original auto tranny. No longer going through a new starter every tear like it did before.
I don't think that your Acura situation is the case here personally.
I don't think that your Acura situation is the case here personally.
I had my car in for service last weekend and when I pulled in, they immediately noticed the sound of my car. A few techs walked over and asked about the G and we got to talking. They LOVED the Fast Intentions Cat-Back....
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
I had no idea my dealer was mod friendly, but I guess they are. We had a good time talking about the G and what's to come in the future.
I'm still happy with my grounding kit.
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
I had no idea my dealer was mod friendly, but I guess they are. We had a good time talking about the G and what's to come in the future.
I'm still happy with my grounding kit.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,904
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, Canada
[QUOTE=AesonVirus;3981600]
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
QUOTE]
Hey - when u say... "alleviate those potential concerns down the road.. "
what do u mean by that exactly?
also, if your saying, some cars are better grounded off the assembly line; maybe thats why others dont feel much gains from this mod. Since there cars are better grounded.
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
QUOTE]
Hey - when u say... "alleviate those potential concerns down the road.. "
what do u mean by that exactly?
also, if your saying, some cars are better grounded off the assembly line; maybe thats why others dont feel much gains from this mod. Since there cars are better grounded.
Last edited by Wes_888; Mar 5, 2009 at 10:24 AM.
I had my car in for service last weekend and when I pulled in, they immediately noticed the sound of my car. A few techs walked over and asked about the G and we got to talking. They LOVED the Fast Intentions Cat-Back....
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
I had no idea my dealer was mod friendly, but I guess they are. We had a good time talking about the G and what's to come in the future.
I'm still happy with my grounding kit.
Anyway, I mentioned the grounding kit and they told me that it was a great idea. They went on to talk about how they've added them to G's of their own and how they even have a purpose long term. The cars are all painted and then assembled. Some cars may be better grounded than others off the assembly line and the grounding kit helps to alleviate those potential concerns and problems may may occur years down the road.
Who knows, but if the dealer didn't shun them... I'm happy.
I had no idea my dealer was mod friendly, but I guess they are. We had a good time talking about the G and what's to come in the future.
I'm still happy with my grounding kit.
As far as Nissan grounding, it is pretty weak and always has been since I've driving them ('91). That's why I made my first grounding kit - not for performance but out of necessity. This black wire is the grounding wire for the headlights next to my 4 AWG wire for chassis/battery ground:
Pretty weak. My Maxima had alternator and starter problems that wouldn't go away no matter how many times I replaced them. I fixed he grounding and haven't had an issue since. Same for the AT; it has worked much much more smoothly since I grounded the car thoroughly. I was extremely skeptical that grounding it would help the problem but kind of did it out of desperation because nothing else was working and it was easier and cheaper then continually replacing the starter or alternator. I'm glad I did.
In a prefect world the grounding point would be bare metal on metal without paint that inhibits the electrical current flow but that's not practical because the metal would corrode.
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Toronto, Canada
DAMN guys!!! lol
Everytime I mention some sort of mod to the dealership.. I always get a "dear in the headlights" look from them... :S :S :S :S
How useless.... and they never know the answer.
Everytime I mention some sort of mod to the dealership.. I always get a "dear in the headlights" look from them... :S :S :S :S
How useless.... and they never know the answer.
Don't you love having a mod friendly dealership! I have one too and it's great (Clear Lake Infiniti in Houston). I've gotten one of the newer service writers to do aftermarket work and installs like HFC, suspension etc. I showed him my grounding kit and custom headlights and he thought it was great.
As far as Nissan grounding, it is pretty weak and always has been since I've driving them ('91). That's why I made my first grounding kit - not for performance but out of necessity. This black wire is the grounding wire for the headlights next to my 4 AWG wire for chassis/battery ground:
Pretty weak. My Maxima had alternator and starter problems that wouldn't go away no matter how many times I replaced them. I fixed he grounding and haven't had an issue since. Same for the AT; it has worked much much more smoothly since I grounded the car thoroughly. I was extremely skeptical that grounding it would help the problem but kind of did it out of desperation because nothing else was working and it was easier and cheaper then continually replacing the starter or alternator. I'm glad I did.
In a prefect world the grounding point would be bare metal on metal without paint that inhibits the electrical current flow but that's not practical because the metal would corrode.
As far as Nissan grounding, it is pretty weak and always has been since I've driving them ('91). That's why I made my first grounding kit - not for performance but out of necessity. This black wire is the grounding wire for the headlights next to my 4 AWG wire for chassis/battery ground:
Pretty weak. My Maxima had alternator and starter problems that wouldn't go away no matter how many times I replaced them. I fixed he grounding and haven't had an issue since. Same for the AT; it has worked much much more smoothly since I grounded the car thoroughly. I was extremely skeptical that grounding it would help the problem but kind of did it out of desperation because nothing else was working and it was easier and cheaper then continually replacing the starter or alternator. I'm glad I did.
In a prefect world the grounding point would be bare metal on metal without paint that inhibits the electrical current flow but that's not practical because the metal would corrode.
I've been doing remote starter and audio installs on cars for many many years, and I've yet to see a ground from the manufacturer that was ON PAINT... it's usually the chassis metal .. even the many tens of grounding points on the interior .. just haven't seen it. I've tried to ground through paint and it's always a crappy signal and just doesn't even complete the circuit 1/2 the time... don't think that's how the manufacturer does it, sorry.
I've been doing remote starter and audio installs on cars for many many years, and I've yet to see a ground from the manufacturer that was ON PAINT... it's usually the chassis metal .. even the many tens of grounding points on the interior .. just haven't seen it. I've tried to ground through paint and it's always a crappy signal and just doesn't even complete the circuit 1/2 the time... don't think that's how the manufacturer does it, sorry.
The chasis is completely painted before it's wired. The only real ground you are getting from those ground points are from the threads of the bolts and screws holding them to the chasis.
Jeremy is correct here. Most cars are this same way. To echo this point, my wife had a Ford Contour (POS) that had serious alternator and starter issues. We replaced them once a year for three years and then got out of that piece of crap soon after. Grounding issues can and will cause problems down the road.
The service guys at my dealer admitted this and find some sort of grounding kit to be well worth the investment. When I explained the grounding points of this particular kit, they were impressed.
Jeremy is correct here. Most cars are this same way. To echo this point, my wife had a Ford Contour (POS) that had serious alternator and starter issues. We replaced them once a year for three years and then got out of that piece of crap soon after. Grounding issues can and will cause problems down the road.
The service guys at my dealer admitted this and find some sort of grounding kit to be well worth the investment. When I explained the grounding points of this particular kit, they were impressed.