Installed: Invidia Q300 Exhaust
Well from what i've herd on the Z forums, guys get some crazy gains from test pipes. More than HFC. Especially on the HR motor. I noticed with my exhaust when i lost back pressure, i felt more power. Im not saying the more you lose the more you'll gain but test pipes werent made to lose power, or no one would buy them.
Humm interesting discussion here guys, well hopefully tomorrow I'd be getting my car Dyno'd!!! Finally!!! I just hope the guy is ready and can give me a print out, if he can't give me a print out or e-mail me the dyno run then it's pointless for me.
At least it'll show what I've gained from the Berks HFC and Gemini, I hope I get some increase in power, and Robby maybe we can compare once you have the test pipes on and do a dyno run, because at least we'll have similar mods but you'll have the test pipes and I'll have the HFCs
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P.s. I hope it doesn't rain today or tomorrow (the sky has been very dark all day) and the forecast is Rainy today and tomorrow, if it starts raining now I'm pretty much screwed, I won't even be able to leave work because the whole area will be flooded!!!!!!
Ugh I wish Someone would throw the people in charge into the floods and let them swim their way home 

At least it'll show what I've gained from the Berks HFC and Gemini, I hope I get some increase in power, and Robby maybe we can compare once you have the test pipes on and do a dyno run, because at least we'll have similar mods but you'll have the test pipes and I'll have the HFCs
.P.s. I hope it doesn't rain today or tomorrow (the sky has been very dark all day) and the forecast is Rainy today and tomorrow, if it starts raining now I'm pretty much screwed, I won't even be able to leave work because the whole area will be flooded!!!!!!
Ugh I wish Someone would throw the people in charge into the floods and let them swim their way home 

So.... I dyno'ed my car (G37) with the Gemini exhaust, and lost 3HP over my baseline. The dyno runs were done 2 months apart on the same Cobb Mustang dyno. My original baseline was a couple months ago when it was still pretty hot and humid out, and I put down 262 HP. I dyno'ed again 2 weeks after installing the Gemini a couple months later, and put down 259 HP. It was a lot cooler out on the second dyno (50 degrees vs. 80 degrees).
I had also installed K&N drop-in filters between the 2 dyno sessions, but I don't think they contributed much either way. I should also point out that Cobb's dyno reads about 8% lower than a DynoJet if anyone is wondering why the number are so low.
With the above said, we found a big a$$ leak in the exhaust which very possibly caused the drop in HP. One of the flanges at the cat was not welded all the way around (it only had 4-5 spot welds), and had obviously cracked the first time I drove the car. Cobb put the car on a lift, and we noticed right away what the issue was. I just got the replacement pipe yesterday, and it will probably be at least a couple of weeks before I can re-dyno the car again.
Lou got me the replacement pipe within 5-6 days which I was happy about. Obviously, I am not so happy about the exhaust having a leak, but I had no issues getting it taken care of; other than the distributor for Invidia not communicating that they had sent a replacement pipe. It just showed up after Lou had me send an email to them.... Lou obviously has a good relationship with the Invidia guys which is a good reason to order from him. Problems are no fun, but they do happen. Having someone that can take care of them right away is a big bonus.
I had also installed K&N drop-in filters between the 2 dyno sessions, but I don't think they contributed much either way. I should also point out that Cobb's dyno reads about 8% lower than a DynoJet if anyone is wondering why the number are so low.
With the above said, we found a big a$$ leak in the exhaust which very possibly caused the drop in HP. One of the flanges at the cat was not welded all the way around (it only had 4-5 spot welds), and had obviously cracked the first time I drove the car. Cobb put the car on a lift, and we noticed right away what the issue was. I just got the replacement pipe yesterday, and it will probably be at least a couple of weeks before I can re-dyno the car again.
Lou got me the replacement pipe within 5-6 days which I was happy about. Obviously, I am not so happy about the exhaust having a leak, but I had no issues getting it taken care of; other than the distributor for Invidia not communicating that they had sent a replacement pipe. It just showed up after Lou had me send an email to them.... Lou obviously has a good relationship with the Invidia guys which is a good reason to order from him. Problems are no fun, but they do happen. Having someone that can take care of them right away is a big bonus.
They don't lose power, but they do lose torque with test pipes if your running an NA car. Therefore HFC's will give you the most driveable option for an NA car.
Well from what i've herd on the Z forums, guys get some crazy gains from test pipes. More than HFC. Especially on the HR motor. I noticed with my exhaust when i lost back pressure, i felt more power. Im not saying the more you lose the more you'll gain but test pipes werent made to lose power, or no one would buy them.
I gained 8hp with my gemini exhaust on my G35. I dont see why someone would lose hp. Plus, 2hp is not something you would feel that you lost.
As for HFC compared to test pipes, there is a reason why people get tunes
I've had this talk with the Z guys already and you know those guys will kick yo azz if you dont know what your talking about lol
It is true i will lose a few tq but with another tune, ima sure i can work something out where it's worth it.
Like i said "no one would buy test pipes if you only lost power" Thats all im hearing from you guys.
I recommend most of you search the Z forums about this.
As for HFC compared to test pipes, there is a reason why people get tunes
I've had this talk with the Z guys already and you know those guys will kick yo azz if you dont know what your talking about lol
It is true i will lose a few tq but with another tune, ima sure i can work something out where it's worth it.
Like i said "no one would buy test pipes if you only lost power" Thats all im hearing from you guys.
I recommend most of you search the Z forums about this.
Ok, I'll add to your HFC vs. test pipe debate, and discussion about back pressure. In general back pressure is never a good thing on the VQ. You may loose some low-end torque with the larger pipe diameter close to the engine, but it has nothing to do with back pressure and a lot more to do with the scavenging affect your exhaust has. Scavenging is a result of the pipe diameter, so in theory test pipes or HFC will not make any difference if they are the same size. Almost all that are currently available are 2.5" except the Invidia and Mines HFC that are 60mm (a tad smaller than 2.5", and in theory slightly better for the scavenging affect). I can go on, but I will quote Tony (Hydrazine) for as a more reputable reference.
The original thread is here: http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhau...k-for-n-a.html
The original thread is here: http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhau...k-for-n-a.html
Back pressure (at least on our engine) is NEVER a good thing for NA applications.
It is a widely spread myth that some back pressure is good, but it is 100% FALSE.
There clearly are situations where smaller diameter pipes can outperform larger diameter pipes but this is not because of back pressure. This is because of scavenging. And when tuned properly, scavenging actually reduces back pressure as seen by the engine.
But be careful in the assumption that smaller automatically equals better performance. It is highly dependent on where the smaller diameter pipes are being used.
Small pipes near the engine can be good for scavenging and power, but as the pipes move farther and farther away from the engine the effect of scavenging rapidly diminishes. If scavenging cannot be taken advantage of, then small/restrictive pipes must be completely avoided.
Back pressure can only reduce power. Do not confuse this with scavenging.
Scavenging actually reduces back pressure on a tuned cyclical basis.
With each pulse released during the exhaust stroke of the engine, the pulse travels like a shotgun blast down the exhaust pipes. The high intensity blast creates a shockwave with a large positive pressure at the wave front. This wave front is traveling so fast that even when the piston reaches TDC and all the gas is expelled by the piston, the fast moving slug of exhaust gas doesn't stop and it rarefies the gas and creates a vacuum behind the shockwave.
It is the vacuum behind the shockwave that sucks out any remaining exhaust gas from the cylinder. This vacuum also pulls more fuel/air mixture through the intake valves during the intake/exhaust valve overlap period. And this is how more power is made. This is the scavenging effect. It vacuums exhaust gas out of your engine!:thumbup:
Adding back pressure can only kill off this vacuum that you want.
NOW HERE IS HOW THE MYTH STARTED.
IT WAS A MISINTERPRETATION OF TEST RESULTS.
Sombody a long time ago probably did the same series of dyno tests I did on varying pipe diameters. Like I did, they probably found that smaller diameter pipes can yeild higher HP and TQ. They probably mistook this for back pressure and put it out in the public. Smaller diameter pipes can provide higher performance when used properly. But small diameter pipes are only desirable when they are very close to the engine.
For example:
I did a series of dyno tests on various diameter test pipes ranging from 2.5", 2.25" and 2.0".
Before conducting the tests, my initial guess was that the larger diameter pipes would produce the highest HP with lowest TQ. And the smaller diameter pipes would produce the lowest HP and the highest TQ.
Well... I was 1/2 right...
As expected, the dyno testing showed the 2.5" diameter test pipes made the lowest TQ. And as expected, the dyno testing showed the 2.0" diameter test pipes made the highest TQ.
But here's the kicker. The 2.0" test pipes made 2 more HP than the 2.5" test pipes! ...It left me thinking "COOL.:thumbup: Smaller diameter test pipes make more TQ and more HP. That's a wining combination!"
So sombody a long time ago probably misinterpreted the smaller diameter as adding performance by being more restrictive. But this is not the case. It is because of increased scavenging. Smaller diameter pipes near the engine increase the velocity of the shockwave and thereby increasing the effect of scavenging. It was a misinterpretation of the results.
So I continued down this line of testing at the Y-pipe primaries. Using the 2.0" test pipes, I then tested various Y-pipe primary diameters. 2.0", 2.25" and 2.5".
The expectation was to see similar results... but not quite this time. At least not at the Y-pipe.
The 2.0" Y-pipe primaries did indeed provide the highest TQ, but it brought a good portion of the HP down. 2.25" primaries were better but could still be improved upon. The 2.5" Y-pipe primaries provided the best peak power and the best average power.
So dyno testing proved the best test pipe diameter is 2.0" diameter and the best Y-pipe primary diameter is 2.5".
I then continued further down this line of testing on the mid-pipe and made some more interesting observations. Testing mid-pipe diameters at 2.5", 3.0" and then a fully open Y-pipe.
What I did find was that there was no scavenging effect possible after the Y-pipe. There was nothing to gain from the smaller diameter what so ever. In fact, the only thing that had any effect was simple back pressure.
Using a open Y-pipe as the baseline I found that connecting a 3" single exhaust had no effect on TQ and with only a small 1.5 HP decrease.
The 2.5" midpipe slightly reduced TQ and was ~2.5HP down from than the 3" midpipe.
This series of tests established:
1) There was no scavenging possible after the Y-pipe.
2) A smaller diameter midpipe can only decrease HP&TQ
3) There will be rapidly diminishing returns beyond a 3" midpipe
4) With power to weight ratios taken into consideration a 3" midpipe can be considered optimum. 3" also allows more headroom for medium boost FI applications.
Going from 3" to a 3.5" midpipe may at best provide a 0.5HP increase. So from a weight point of view, going larger than 3.0" would be counter productive for NA applications.
I then conducted another series of tests at the end of the Y-pipe.
1) Attaching a 3" diameter butterfly valve with variable position restriction plate.
2) Attaching a 6" diameter parabolic diffuser to reduces pressure drop below that of a 3" open pipe.
The purpose of the butterfly valve restriction plate was to directly test the effect of raw back pressure on performance. And the results were very clear.
BACK PRESSURE RAPIDLY REDUCES PERFORMANCE.
I dyno tested the valve at various levels of flow restriction. From wide open to almost fully closed as back pressure was increased, performance rapidly decreased.

This set of dyno plots is proof positive that back pressure is the enemy of power and torque.
Let the myth of back pressure be permanently dispelled from the vocabulary of this forum!
After that series of tests I started another set of tests that decreased exhaust pressure beyond that of a simple open ended 3" pipe.
A 6" diameter parabolic diffuser was clamped onto the end of the Y-pipe. This was used to decrease flow resistance below that of a open pipe.
Dyno tests of the diffuser showed an instant 4-6HP increase over that of a open Y-pipe!:thumbup:
This picture below is a picture of a 5" linear diffuser. It doesn't perform quite as good as the 6" parabolic diffuser but the 6" diffuser is completely impractical for fitment and production reasons.
6" is too big for fitment under the Z and the parabolic shape also gives it a curvature that makes the production process MUCH more difficult.
This is the diffuser used on the MD ShockWave single exhaust system. It can also be attached directly to the Y-pipe for drag race applications.

So while there are rapidly diminishing returns with going to larger and larger diameter tubing after the Y-pipe, significant gains can still be made by use of diffusers.
The back to back dyno testing shown below was a simple open Y-pipe as the baseline and then with the diffuser attached.

It is a widely spread myth that some back pressure is good, but it is 100% FALSE.
There clearly are situations where smaller diameter pipes can outperform larger diameter pipes but this is not because of back pressure. This is because of scavenging. And when tuned properly, scavenging actually reduces back pressure as seen by the engine.
But be careful in the assumption that smaller automatically equals better performance. It is highly dependent on where the smaller diameter pipes are being used.
Small pipes near the engine can be good for scavenging and power, but as the pipes move farther and farther away from the engine the effect of scavenging rapidly diminishes. If scavenging cannot be taken advantage of, then small/restrictive pipes must be completely avoided.
Back pressure can only reduce power. Do not confuse this with scavenging.
Scavenging actually reduces back pressure on a tuned cyclical basis.
With each pulse released during the exhaust stroke of the engine, the pulse travels like a shotgun blast down the exhaust pipes. The high intensity blast creates a shockwave with a large positive pressure at the wave front. This wave front is traveling so fast that even when the piston reaches TDC and all the gas is expelled by the piston, the fast moving slug of exhaust gas doesn't stop and it rarefies the gas and creates a vacuum behind the shockwave.
It is the vacuum behind the shockwave that sucks out any remaining exhaust gas from the cylinder. This vacuum also pulls more fuel/air mixture through the intake valves during the intake/exhaust valve overlap period. And this is how more power is made. This is the scavenging effect. It vacuums exhaust gas out of your engine!:thumbup:
Adding back pressure can only kill off this vacuum that you want.
NOW HERE IS HOW THE MYTH STARTED.
IT WAS A MISINTERPRETATION OF TEST RESULTS.
Sombody a long time ago probably did the same series of dyno tests I did on varying pipe diameters. Like I did, they probably found that smaller diameter pipes can yeild higher HP and TQ. They probably mistook this for back pressure and put it out in the public. Smaller diameter pipes can provide higher performance when used properly. But small diameter pipes are only desirable when they are very close to the engine.
For example:
I did a series of dyno tests on various diameter test pipes ranging from 2.5", 2.25" and 2.0".
Before conducting the tests, my initial guess was that the larger diameter pipes would produce the highest HP with lowest TQ. And the smaller diameter pipes would produce the lowest HP and the highest TQ.
Well... I was 1/2 right...
As expected, the dyno testing showed the 2.5" diameter test pipes made the lowest TQ. And as expected, the dyno testing showed the 2.0" diameter test pipes made the highest TQ.
But here's the kicker. The 2.0" test pipes made 2 more HP than the 2.5" test pipes! ...It left me thinking "COOL.:thumbup: Smaller diameter test pipes make more TQ and more HP. That's a wining combination!"
So sombody a long time ago probably misinterpreted the smaller diameter as adding performance by being more restrictive. But this is not the case. It is because of increased scavenging. Smaller diameter pipes near the engine increase the velocity of the shockwave and thereby increasing the effect of scavenging. It was a misinterpretation of the results.
So I continued down this line of testing at the Y-pipe primaries. Using the 2.0" test pipes, I then tested various Y-pipe primary diameters. 2.0", 2.25" and 2.5".
The expectation was to see similar results... but not quite this time. At least not at the Y-pipe.
The 2.0" Y-pipe primaries did indeed provide the highest TQ, but it brought a good portion of the HP down. 2.25" primaries were better but could still be improved upon. The 2.5" Y-pipe primaries provided the best peak power and the best average power.
So dyno testing proved the best test pipe diameter is 2.0" diameter and the best Y-pipe primary diameter is 2.5".
I then continued further down this line of testing on the mid-pipe and made some more interesting observations. Testing mid-pipe diameters at 2.5", 3.0" and then a fully open Y-pipe.
What I did find was that there was no scavenging effect possible after the Y-pipe. There was nothing to gain from the smaller diameter what so ever. In fact, the only thing that had any effect was simple back pressure.
Using a open Y-pipe as the baseline I found that connecting a 3" single exhaust had no effect on TQ and with only a small 1.5 HP decrease.
The 2.5" midpipe slightly reduced TQ and was ~2.5HP down from than the 3" midpipe.
This series of tests established:
1) There was no scavenging possible after the Y-pipe.
2) A smaller diameter midpipe can only decrease HP&TQ
3) There will be rapidly diminishing returns beyond a 3" midpipe
4) With power to weight ratios taken into consideration a 3" midpipe can be considered optimum. 3" also allows more headroom for medium boost FI applications.
Going from 3" to a 3.5" midpipe may at best provide a 0.5HP increase. So from a weight point of view, going larger than 3.0" would be counter productive for NA applications.
I then conducted another series of tests at the end of the Y-pipe.
1) Attaching a 3" diameter butterfly valve with variable position restriction plate.
2) Attaching a 6" diameter parabolic diffuser to reduces pressure drop below that of a 3" open pipe.
The purpose of the butterfly valve restriction plate was to directly test the effect of raw back pressure on performance. And the results were very clear.
BACK PRESSURE RAPIDLY REDUCES PERFORMANCE.
I dyno tested the valve at various levels of flow restriction. From wide open to almost fully closed as back pressure was increased, performance rapidly decreased.

This set of dyno plots is proof positive that back pressure is the enemy of power and torque.
Let the myth of back pressure be permanently dispelled from the vocabulary of this forum!
After that series of tests I started another set of tests that decreased exhaust pressure beyond that of a simple open ended 3" pipe.
A 6" diameter parabolic diffuser was clamped onto the end of the Y-pipe. This was used to decrease flow resistance below that of a open pipe.
Dyno tests of the diffuser showed an instant 4-6HP increase over that of a open Y-pipe!:thumbup:
This picture below is a picture of a 5" linear diffuser. It doesn't perform quite as good as the 6" parabolic diffuser but the 6" diffuser is completely impractical for fitment and production reasons.
6" is too big for fitment under the Z and the parabolic shape also gives it a curvature that makes the production process MUCH more difficult.
This is the diffuser used on the MD ShockWave single exhaust system. It can also be attached directly to the Y-pipe for drag race applications.

So while there are rapidly diminishing returns with going to larger and larger diameter tubing after the Y-pipe, significant gains can still be made by use of diffusers.
The back to back dyno testing shown below was a simple open Y-pipe as the baseline and then with the diffuser attached.

Last edited by jran76; Dec 22, 2009 at 04:10 PM.
Not sure if this was in reference to me loosing 3HP, but I am sure my results have to do with the gaping whole in the flange on my Gemini.... My results all came from the same dyno. I can attribute the loss to what I went over above. With the leaking flange so close to the engine, I am loosing a lot of the scavenging affect that normally takes place. I also have a tune, and the A/F looked great before and after (nice steady 12.4 stock and a nice steady 12.3ish with the Gemini and K&N drop in-- no tuning changes were made between the stock and Gemini runs).
Last edited by jran76; Dec 22, 2009 at 04:14 PM.
Not sure if this was in reference to me loosing 3HP, but I am sure my results have to do with the gaping whole in the flange on my Gemini.... My results all came from the same dyno. I can attribute the loss to what I went over above. With the leaking flange so close to the engine, I am loosing a lot of the scavenging affect that normally takes place. I also have a tune, and the A/F looked great before and after (nice steady 12.4 stock and a nice steady 12.3ish with the Gemini and K&N drop in-- no tuning changes were made between the stock and Gemini runs).
GL with that
I got the new pipe that will replace my defective one, and should have another dyno done in a couple of weeks when I get back from a little xmas vacation. I'll post the results....
Great info Jran76, but now i wonder if GTM resonated race pipes would produce drone or raspy sound, but what would you vote for? HFC or RTP? I've started to lean forward for the RTP, they're cheaper too
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well RTP take away most of the rasp and im sure invidias resonators will block away a lot of rasp. We'll see once i get them installed Saturday I'll post up sound clips. I got a video camera that records in HD just for sound clips.
Dude, do it ASAP, i'm placing my order on Monday and i need to make up my mind about it, please post before and after video clips, and make sure they are (engine start up, accelrating, drive by) all of them before and after please (i know it's a lot of work, but i don't want to regret a decission).






