Hi guys,

A few weeks back I started to get a really odd problem,

Now this usually happens when I accelerate WOT from 2nd to 3rd (VDC is always off),

As soon as I shift to 3rd I get the usual small thump from shifting (normal nothing is different), but right after it shifts I get two scenarios:

- Usually my (handbrake light) switchs on for several seconds and then it'll switch of by itself.

- Second scenario is both my Slip light and my handbrake light switch on and stay on, I have to switch the car off and then back on for them to disappear.






This only happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and not always on WOT but on hard acceleration in general.

The only other thing that has been acting up in the car is I'm getting a weird metal rattle sound at around ~3,000 rpm (in any gear), it seems like either my exhaust is rubbing against something metal. Or that something is loose in the exhaust.

Last week I got my car up on the lift to check if there's anything loose but I can't find anything. Also there's nothing obvious about the exhaust rubbing against anything else to make the noise I'm getting.


The two above issues could be completely unrelated.

My main concern right now are the Slip light and the brake lights switching on when I shift from 2nd to 3rd.

Any ideas what this could be?


As for the metal rattle sound from the exhaust, could it be that the internals of the muffler on my Invidia have come loose?

It sounds very similar to when my Invidia HFCs had the membrane come loose, but now I'm running Sport Cats which are completely empty inside.

Any feedback of advice would be appreciated.

 

Leaving work today, got the exact same issue shifted from 2nd to 3rd on hard acceleration and got the usual sign:



sry about the shaky pic but you get the idea

and after 5 secs it vanishes (again my VDC is always off)

 

I'm having this issue also, the Slip and initial Brake light comes on when upshiting my 6mt, so far at 40k on my G35S. Then the Brake light goes off always after a few seconds. I'm going to do a thorough check up of all my fluids first. And I'll confirm if only in certain gears. Following your thread, hopefully nothing to do with the LSD or VDC.

 

normal occurrence with the G when your brake fluid level is low

 

Actually just checked it today and it's a bit low.

I can just simply top it up right?

 

Actually just checked it today and it's a bit low.

I can just simply top it up right?

 

Make sure you don't have any brake system leaks, Find out why it's low first. In my case my brake pads are almost gone, causing the low fluid. If you need pad replacement, no need to top off because the fluid will be pushed back to the master cyl with the thicker pad install. Or, if you need a system flush, again no need to top off.

Thanks, kool_yaar, for the answer to this problem!

 

Kool_yaar has been always supportive with his helpful comments
Thank you dear.

 

Yes, use DOT #3 or match whatever you have in it. WHenever you have your brake pads changed, you'll probably have to sip some out with a turkey baster though.

 

I have similar issue

 

but it happens during first gear...when I start the car, it seems like it shift at 20km/hr....but I know it didn't shift to 2nd....its really werid...I hope there is nothing wrong with the gearbox...I still love this car...put so much money into it for modifing...I don't want to sell it yet...I have 74165 kms on it now,

 

Very good point you make, I'll check them sometime this week but I'm pretty sure my front pads are ok, the rear pads would be up for replacement.

Thanks, I was going on the assumption that DOT 4 or 5 would be the way to go.

Can someone confirm which one it is? Dot 3? 4? or 5?

 

Typically on these cars, there is substantial pad life left beyond the point where additional fluid is needed. You can go ahead and top it off, just be sure and compensate for the extra fluid when you replace pads. This is SOP for a brake mechanic; you always check the status of fluid in the reservoir as you push the calipers back. If it's too full, you take some out.

To clarify my comment about brake fluid: the factory spec for our brake fluid is DOT #3, but if you have replaced it in the past with DOT#4, you should match it with what ever is in it rather than mixing two different specs. There is no reason to consider #5 or #5.1, as your car was previously filled with #3, you have ABS, and you don't race.

 

Thanks for the update

 

Well got around to changing my brake pads today, and yeah they were nearly done.

As soon as I installed the new ones the brake fluid level went back up to max, good thing to know I don't have any leaks.

Now I just have to see if I still get that light under acceleration.