295's on the rear with 10" rim?????
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Originally Posted by terrycs
Sorry, let me try to clarify ... the goal is to place the wheel prefectly coaxial to the axis of hub rotation so vibration is minimized. I'm not a wheel expert (just an engineer
), but I know the stock wheels do in fact have conical lug nuts to perfectly place the wheel relative to the studs. The stock wheels actually have clearance so the center is not used. If the replacement aftermarket wheels are made for conical lug nuts, they will center perfectly assuming they were drilled with the right bolt circle and pattern. However, if the aftermarket wheel is NOT machined for conical lug nuts, another method (rings?) will be needed to center the wheels to the rotor.
As for the weight being supported by the studs ... I wouldn't worry, that's how the stock configuration was designed. The 15mm spacer only moves the wheel out about .6 inches which is really not much (considering what the wheel sees when going over a pot hole for example).
), but I know the stock wheels do in fact have conical lug nuts to perfectly place the wheel relative to the studs. The stock wheels actually have clearance so the center is not used. If the replacement aftermarket wheels are made for conical lug nuts, they will center perfectly assuming they were drilled with the right bolt circle and pattern. However, if the aftermarket wheel is NOT machined for conical lug nuts, another method (rings?) will be needed to center the wheels to the rotor.As for the weight being supported by the studs ... I wouldn't worry, that's how the stock configuration was designed. The 15mm spacer only moves the wheel out about .6 inches which is really not much (considering what the wheel sees when going over a pot hole for example).
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new rims def do require hubcentric rings though...because when i purchased my wheels and tires, i was told that they were balanced. When i was driving however they were shaking a little. I took it in for an alingment which i knew i would need, and a balance...the shop called me and told me that it needed hubcentric rings and not a balance. Car drives like a charm since.
Originally Posted by (>")> G35
^Yes you can center them using the conical lug nuts, it would be a lug centric setup. However a hub centric setup would be much better since both the lug bolts and hub will bear the forces of the wheel. The factory setup is hub centric. The OEM wheel fits over the hub. It makes no sense if nissan was going to put a hub there and make a wheel with a very large center bore, so it wouldn't use the hub, even though a hub centric setup is much better.
From wiki:
"The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the hole in the back of the wheel that centers it over the mounting hub of the car. Factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to holding the wheel to the car. Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down. Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be greater than or equal to that of the car or the wheel will not physically mount to the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with hubcentric rings that lock into the back of the wheel to center it like a factory wheel, usually made of plastic."
From wiki:
"The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the hole in the back of the wheel that centers it over the mounting hub of the car. Factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to holding the wheel to the car. Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down. Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be greater than or equal to that of the car or the wheel will not physically mount to the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with hubcentric rings that lock into the back of the wheel to center it like a factory wheel, usually made of plastic."
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Originally Posted by terrycs
I stand corrected ... I had to pull out the stock spare in my car for other purposes and measured the centerbore while I was at it. Sure enough, it looks like a snug fit to the hub. But how much load does the hub really take if the hubcentric rings used for aftermarket wheels are made of plastic?
Or maybe the plastic hubcentric rings that came with my Volks are carrying the 3500# of my car?
Originally Posted by ommmjido
i dunno where u get that idea from but hub centric has NOTHING to do with lug nuts. what kind of lug nuts should be used depends on the wheel ur putting on. and NO ur 3500+lbs car isnt supported by 20 wheel studs
Also never wanted to imply the car is held up only by 20 wheel studs. To be technically correct, the 20 wheel studs impart a normal force on the shear plane (between the wheel and the rotor). The car is actually held up by the total friction force by the 4 wheels in addition to the bending moment on the studs. If all the nuts were loose, then the car will only be held up by the studs (and most likely fewer than 20 of them
).EDIT: AH .. you beat me to the post!
Last edited by terrycs; Jun 27, 2007 at 03:00 AM.
Originally Posted by terrycs
But how much load does the hub really take if the hubcentric rings used for aftermarket wheels are made of plastic?
That said, plastic is usually sufficient. A 3 mm thick sheet of abs plastic laid flat on the ground could easily withstand 1000 lbs of weight over a 1 sq ft area without shattering into little pieces. Therefore, a 3mm thick plastic ring sandwiched between a metal hub on the inside and the metal rim on the outside should easily withstand any forces generated during driving.
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