Freeways around here (DFW) are grooved, differently on various highways and differently along the same highway as well. There's also a lot of long term construction with attendant and frequent lane reroutes leaving shallow ruts from ground down lane markers along with all sorts of changes in lane construction, tire ruts, etc.

Makes steady steering a bit difficult with the performance tires and wheels on an '07 Sedan (non-sport). Yeah, it's twitchier than most, I've read, but I've discovered small differences in side-to-side pressure make a difference. And I didn't believe it would, but it seems to. I haven't had the alignment checked yet but that's next and I'll have them get it all set up to be as symmetrical as possible, if I can convince 'em to I guess.

Anyway, I wasn't paying much attention to tire pressure until the steering got to be more intrusive than I was willing to put up with. Checking pressure early this week, in the morning without moving the car from the garage, there was a one pound difference between front tires and a bit more between the rear tires, in the opposite direction. I aired them up and set them all as close to 35psi as I could, based on the temp and the speed rating, while trying to keep the ride a little less rough than the dealer's preferred 37psi.

Driving around town through the day (same weather as the day before), along the same highways, at pretty much the same speeds, and in the same lanes (as in, fast lane and exit lane - everything else is just in between...) the steering was definitely not as twitchy. Tramlining was nonexistent to very minimal but still there when the road got bad. Steering still jumped about when crossing expansion joints and seams in the road and it felt about the same as before.

So, having picked up an air compressor at Home Depot (Husky Air Scout), I sprung about the same amount of money on this equalizing pressure gauge just 'cuz I have the misfortune to be an engineer. Bling? Could be. But WTH, ya' can always return it, right?

Turns out to be a pretty substantial bit of kit, way more than I expected for the money. The chucks look like they're machined out of billet and they seem to work very well although I'd hate to see what happens if I trip over the hose since they lock on pretty tight.

The hoses could definitely use swivels at the housing but I guess that'd leave it prone to leaks and raise the cost. And I musta spent *mumble* minutes trying to get the hoses all wrapped up neatly in its case 'cuz I didn't pay attention taking it out for the first time.

After connecting the chucks it does take a while for the pressure to stabilize as you'd expect. And the pressure does have to recover after bleeding it down, again as you'd expect. The gauge face is easy to read, especially when lit, the movement solid, and it's supposed to be accurate to within 0.5psi although the specs don't give the conditions for this number. It certainly doesn't feel or look cheap, that's for sure.

Regardless, it's a heckuva lot quicker and easier to equalize pressures than it is with a single dial gauge, almost balanced out by having to get it out of its case, hook it up, and then get it back in the case. Yeah, I'm a whiney bastid I guess. And no, I don't work for or rep this company, just a satisfied, full-price-paying customer. I bought it direct rather than from Tirerack, if it matters.

It'll be interesting to see how much or how little pressure imbalance matters once, or if, the alignment is balanced out. At a bit over 5K miles the tires aren't showing any odd or excessive wear patterns and the car doesn't pull on a flat surface. But I'm still getting used to steering a rear wheel drive again so I can't really comment on any effects pressure, alignment, tire wear, etc., may have on cornering at the moment.

FWIW,
Pete

 

where did you get it from and how much?

 

http://www.tire-pressure-gauge.com/

It's priced at $99, plus shipping.

 

To revive this thread, I just ordered a psiclops myself. I ordered a similar unit from Autosport Catalog, but the connections for the tire valves would not work on my G's steel valve body. The nut holding the valve in place is too large leaving the threaded part of the Schrader valve too short for the connector to grip onto.
I wrote Equal Air Inc. and they assured me their proprietary valve connectors work on 95% of all vehicles they have used them on, including our type.
30 day money back policy anyway if they don't. And he claims their quality is well above the Autosport model which is $20 less, but if it does not work, what good is it? But the Autosport should work fine with rubber valves as you find on most cars. And it does rotate, but likely will not seal as well even on regular valves.
I will chime in with more goodies after I get the Psiclops and try it out.

 

Just received the Psiclops!
Even if the Autosport will work on your cars (would not on valves of my G's wheels) I recommend getting the Equal Air Psiclops if only for the nicer quality and lifetime warranty.
If you own at least 2 cars, it will be well worth it. Even if you only have one car you could easily waste your money on less necessary junk than this handy device.
The Autosport model is like something you would jerry-rig together in your garage, where the P has a nice big illuminated gauge in a cast aluminum case with molded handle, and easy to fit stainless pressure fittings. No comparison!
Nice thing about doing both tires on each axle at once, there is never doubt that you forgot to check the air in one tire, and the amount of air is automatically balanced as you either release air, or add it.