Help with offsets!
#17
find a person in your area that KNOWS what they are doing when it comes to rolling fenders. the key is heating up the paint enough so it flexes. a properly rolled job will not have chipped paint and you cant tell the difference without looking underneath the fender well. plus you cant have that flush/aggressive stance without having rolled fenders
#18
lol, you cant see the lip unless you're looking from down on the ground, it looks no different with stock wheels on it. If you do it right, or get it done right, the paint wont chip, if it doesn't crack when performing the fender roll, it will never crack afterwards. You heat the paint up so it can flex, then once it cools down, it sets again.
-GP-
-GP-
find a person in your area that KNOWS what they are doing when it comes to rolling fenders. the key is heating up the paint enough so it flexes. a properly rolled job will not have chipped paint and you cant tell the difference without looking underneath the fender well. plus you cant have that flush/aggressive stance without having rolled fenders
#19
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In that case, i'd just do a 10mm spacer on the front so it's not so tucked in. For the rear, you can do the 5mm or 10mm if you want to make it close. If i were you, i'd get a set of 10mm spacers, see how they fit on the rear, if it doesnt rub, then you can leave them on and order another set of 10mm for the front.
-GP-
-GP-
#20
In that case, i'd just do a 10mm spacer on the front so it's not so tucked in. For the rear, you can do the 5mm or 10mm if you want to make it close. If i were you, i'd get a set of 10mm spacers, see how they fit on the rear, if it doesnt rub, then you can leave them on and order another set of 10mm for the front.
-GP-
-GP-
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