why not to use an impact wrench to put on wheellocks or lugs?
#17
04-20-2009, 01:42 AM
DUH, why they make torque limiter sticks for air tools. Every vehicle owner should have one to loan the tire changer just in case they don't have one. The best $25 you will ever spend.
http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-GP-28218.html
http://www.amazon.com/TORQUE-Extensi.../dp/B000JIYPA4
http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-GP-28218.html
http://www.amazon.com/TORQUE-Extensi.../dp/B000JIYPA4
#18
04-20-2009, 01:58 AM
for my summer wheels i always torque them down by hand, even removing, just afraid of the vibration of the gun will move too much and chip the wheel, it can happen!
stock/winter wheels, i loosen them with a torque gun, then tighten them with the torque gun attached to a 80 ft.lb. torque stick
that's what your typical dealership will do too
stock/winter wheels, i loosen them with a torque gun, then tighten them with the torque gun attached to a 80 ft.lb. torque stick
that's what your typical dealership will do too
#19
04-20-2009, 07:46 AM
#20
04-20-2009, 08:41 AM
#21
04-20-2009, 09:04 AM
You may ask 
Required torque is about 80 ftlbs or so. I've probably taken off/put on about 100 sets though the years. And have done numerous engine work where torque values are much more critical. So I believe I have a decent feel for what 80-95 ftlbs feel like. I probably error on the tight side though.
On your crank main caps, the tolerances for torque values are much more tight and critical.
Considering you wanted to use an impact wrench to torque the lugs down.... You do know that impact wrenches are nortoriously inconsistent and can vary wildly depending on settings, air availability etc...??
Required torque is about 80 ftlbs or so. I've probably taken off/put on about 100 sets though the years. And have done numerous engine work where torque values are much more critical. So I believe I have a decent feel for what 80-95 ftlbs feel like. I probably error on the tight side though.
On your crank main caps, the tolerances for torque values are much more tight and critical.
Considering you wanted to use an impact wrench to torque the lugs down.... You do know that impact wrenches are nortoriously inconsistent and can vary wildly depending on settings, air availability etc...??
All the mechanical work you have done over the years, and you never purchased a couple of torque wrenches which are relatively inexpensive and will last forever if properly maintained.
#22
04-20-2009, 10:51 AM
#23
04-20-2009, 11:41 AM
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I've had a couple things done recently at Tire Kingdom, and I made sure to ask that they use a TQ Wrench and not the impact when putting the wheels back on, and when I was talking to him, he was walking into the front from the shop area, and he said he had just brought the mechanic a TQ wrench for my car.
#24
04-20-2009, 11:52 AM
I have access to a good torque wrench. Just don't use it for my wheels. A bit lazy, yes. But IMHO, wheels have a revatively large tolerance for torque.
#25
04-20-2009, 02:55 PM
+1, I don't bother with a torque wrench either with wheels. I tighten them as far as a can by hand, that way I know I can take them off if I'm on the side of the road. Just make sure you check them after 20-30 miles and you are good to go.
#26
04-20-2009, 05:07 PM
My torque wrenches are as handy as my sockets and other tools so I always use it.
Heck on my Z71 truck the torque for the wheel studs is 140 ft-lbs instead of 80 ft-lbs for our G35s, that is a huge difference.
#27
04-20-2009, 05:12 PM
Ouch, if most people tightened them that tight there would be a few stripped studs around and lots of over-torqued wheels. 80ft-lbs is not very tight.
My torque wrenches are as handy as my sockets and other tools so I always use it.
Heck on my Z71 truck the torque for the wheel studs is 140 ft-lbs instead of 80 ft-lbs for our G35s, that is a huge difference.
My torque wrenches are as handy as my sockets and other tools so I always use it.
Heck on my Z71 truck the torque for the wheel studs is 140 ft-lbs instead of 80 ft-lbs for our G35s, that is a huge difference.
Try to get 80 ftlbs on a 3/8" 12" long breaker bar. You'd have to stand and jump on it (if you didn't break it first).
A 1/2" 24" bar is alot easier to get that but there's still a decent amount of force needed to get to that.
On my maxima, the front CV joint bolt needs about 160-ish ft lbs. I had to use a 3/4", 24" long breaker bar with long arsed cheater pipe to get that
#28
04-20-2009, 05:32 PM
Try to get 80 ftlbs on a 3/8" 12" long breaker bar. You'd have to stand and jump on it (if you didn't break it first).
A 1/2" 24" bar is alot easier to get that but there's still a decent amount of force needed to get to that.
On my maxima, the front CV joint bolt needs about 160-ish ft lbs. I had to use a 3/4", 24" long breaker bar with long arsed cheater pipe to get that
A 1/2" 24" bar is alot easier to get that but there's still a decent amount of force needed to get to that.
On my maxima, the front CV joint bolt needs about 160-ish ft lbs. I had to use a 3/4", 24" long breaker bar with long arsed cheater pipe to get that
not quite, thank goodness, I'm a heavy 235 