^ +1, or gunmetal wheels

 

it's amazing how many people buy things like plenum spacers, test pipes... or even MT instead of AT all in order to be faster... yet they give no consideration to the weight of the wheels they put on their car.

But, I think you aren't giving the good people of G35Driver enough credit... there are many, many people that care about vehicle performance and realize how a wheel's weight is a factor.

Okay... back to what TSW to choose...

 

^agreed

 

i guess im part of the .3% lol

 

This is a better way to post about the same subject, being informative is far better than criticizing ( which is how I interpreted your first post ). Out with the old and in with the new...


FWIW...you are mostly correct, but the biggest issue here is that the larger the wheels in question, the more diminished return you have. The reason is because the TIRE has FAR more effect than the wheel it's self does due to the fact that it not only weighs as much as the wheel, it's the furthest to the hub. And then you have the issue that the larger the tire gets, the less and less of a weight difference you have between sizes.

When you compare 20's vs. 20's it's even less of a difference. You may have a set of TSW that weigh 62lbs ( this is what my rear wheel weighs with a Nitto NT555 275/30/20 tire ) and then you have a set of DPE's that weigh, for example, 58lbs ( assuming the same tire for both ). The weight difference is a mere 6lbs, and a good part of that weight difference is close to the hub. The tires on both wheels weigh the same, and they are the real killers. And the person with DPE's saved 6lbs while I saved $3000...and the $3k matter a lot more to me and a lot of other people. Of course there is the other advantages that forged wheels offer such as strength and looks which may make forged wheels "worth it"...but that's not the topic at hand. What people don't seem to know is that you can save 6-7lbs just by choosing a light weight TIRE and you'd save the weight where it matters. I remember a 275/30/20 dunlop tire that weighed 32lbs and the same size tire in General weighed 25lbs and in Continental 24lbs. THAT is a weight saving worth paying for.

In the end, I did not feel a difference at all from installing my 20's ( which weigh 8lbs more in front and 14lbs more at the rear when compared to the oem 18's ) which shocked me since I DID expect a noticeable difference in acceleration. I felt a difference from my testpipes though. Braking was also affected considerably ( which I also expected ).

I'm going to dyno soon enough to see how much power I lost from the wheels, it might be interesting.

Sorry for the long post...lol...on with the show.

 

You will NOT get an aggressive setup or even mildly aggressive going with offsets in the 30's. You need under 25 to be considered close to aggressive..


LOL! You're talking to G SEDAN about aggressive offsets... he doesnt know **** about them (jk Aaron!) if you need direction on an aggressive wheel/tire/suspension setup for the sedan, PM me.. i helped out G SEDAN with his current setup, along with many many other members here.

 

They all look pretty bad, but Snetterton is best if you have to get one of those wheels.

 

man shut up Grant. LOL I was trying to help the guy out.

Trust me he's not capable of aggressive yet....he needs to ease into it with some 20x8.5 and 20x10 +40 for now.

Op, my advice to you is this:

Stop caring about what other people think. Do research and see what you really like. No one can tell you what offset, camber, width, rim style color, size will be the right one for you. It's your car, your budget, your decision.

There are lightweight 20's out there. Hell, my 20x11 weigh 27 lbs. OCG does have a point. When I put on my track 18's monoblock forged at 18.5 lbs, my car takes off like a bat out of hell. Weight really hinders the performance of the vehicle, I'm just willing to do it for looks (to a certain extent). I will never put 50 lb triple chrome plated cheap cast wheels on (been there done that *ahem* sterns). LOL

 

The only. Thing I need help with is running an aggressive wheel and tire that's flush with my fenders and has a nice size lip and wide and of course roll my fenders ..

 

great....but still no cookie

 

Well, instead of all the opinions that a lighter wheel is "better" and SOOOO MUCHHH faster, lets actually calculate what the effect is.

See attached spreadsheet.
This spreadsheet will calculate how much torque is required to accelerate a said wheel/tire combination from 0-60mph. By entering different wheel sizes, tire sizes, weights, etc... you should get a good approximation of what the effect would be.

I just too a quick wag on my car (some numbers are just arbitrary) and the difference in amount of torque required to accelerate all four (4) wheels on my car were:

OPTION 1: 25lb Wheels, 25lb Tires
OPTION 2: 18lb Wheels, 25lb Tires

The difference between two options is about 9 ftlbs torque total. In otherwords, it would take OPTION 1 an extra 9 ftlbs of its engine torque to accelerate the same car (wheelset) at the same rate as in OPTION 2.

 

9 ft lbs of trq!!! Wow! It costs a grip to get that out of the engine alone!

 

Anyone considering 20" TSWs isn't going to be concerned about weight that much.

 

well i guess a lot of people are now ganna go get rid of there 20's and run out and buy light weight wheels now......oh wait, hold on.....no they're not....because, like stated before, most people dont care

 

Every forum member on this forum only makes up a fraction of the buying public. Even less mod their car. Even a smaller fraction of thse, care about light weight wheels enough to spend what it takes to get them. So yeah, 6spSedanFTW is most likely alot closer to being right vs wrong in his 99.7% guess