Update of the update.

Took off front right 19" and replaced with stock 17" - shudders at 55mph instead of 50mph and less violently

Took off front left 19" and replaced with stock 17" - shudders at 60mph

Took off both rear 19's and replaced with stock 17" (with spacers still on) and it runs smooth up to 70mph (highest I can get around here and it's raining) so that all original wheels are on the car.

So, does this sound like bent/unbalanced rims or what?

 

Take the spacers off and replace with stock 17s.

 

The stock 17's are back on, WITH the spacers, and it runs fine. I'll remove the studs and spacers once I'm sure the 19's won't work. I'm trying to not have wasted time and money on the upgrade. So simply going back to what I had is not really a helpful solution now, is it? : )

 

have you seriously not had them rebalanced yet?

 

No, "seriously", I have not yet. Why not? Well, for starters, the seller has assured me they are properly balanced and refuses to pay for them to be done again. Also, perhaps you are unemployed, but I run a small business and live in a rural area so it'll take me about an hour drive time to drop them off, another hour to pick them up, and another half hour or so to put them back on the car. That's another 2.5 hours dumped in the deal on top of the 3 hours I've already spent installing and troubleshooting them.

Then, if after spending another $80 or so on top of the $1600 I already have in them, they still vibrate, I can then spend another $200 on a 4 wheel alignment hoping it works out. Or, if the shop finds them bent, I'm down $80 but still have to return the wheels.

So, "seriously", I was hoping to avoid killing half a day where I lose $200 of income and $80 cash by asking here if there is some definite alignment issue I need to address in going between the M35 and G35 vehicle with those wheels. Especially when I can just ship them back for $225 and get a refund.

I have gone from 16" 195mm to 18" 235 mm tires/wheels on a BMW with zero issues, 17" to 18" on a Saab with no issues, and from stock to hugely wider tires on pickups multiple times just bolting them on. so I was trying to find out if there was a specific G35/M35 issue BEFORE wasting all that additional time and money on what might not be the right wheels for my car.

If I could have bought new wheels I liked at a decent price I would have. But this is a 3rd vehicle for us and it didn't make much sense to spend $3500 on wheels for a $16,000 car.

Understand better now?

 

your tires need to be balanced.

Understand better now?

used parts are different then new parts in that they are used and problems should be expected to arise from time to time.

you are telling me you don't live in a town with a tire shop, car dealer, sears auto center, pepboys etc? you have 17s you can't just drop them off when you have a chance and pick them up? you probably don't even need to bother with the rears. Also since the concept of wheels and tires seems alien to you I should probably check to make sure that you seated them properly on the hub and torqued them to 80-100 ft lbs in a star pattern and then re-torqued after 50 miles of driving.

When I buy used wheels and tires I am pleasantly surprised if they are properly balanced.

 

Oh sorry. Good luck

 

Freaking tire and wheel riddles.

I was right (and wrong). The wheels were properly balanced on the machines like I thought. However...

I had it balanced at a tire shop today (only killed 2.5 hours of my day getting there and back) and they said they were good, only needed a little weight. Certainly not bad enough to cause the violent shudder I was getting. But oddly they said they were all 15-20 psi, when I know I had checked them upon delivery and confirmed 35psi on 3 and around 22 on the other. I aired that one back up and checked it a couple days later and it was still 35. So I assumed it was ok, even though it bothered me that it was so low.

I put the 19" wheels back on the car (at 37psi) to test it again and it still vibrates like crazy. I remove the wheels to put the 17's back on and get rid of these things and as I am inspecting the rims further I by chance HEAR WATER SLOSHING IN ALL 4 RIMS! Some more than others, but you can hear and feel it.

So, how the heck does water (not a viscous tire sealant but something that sounds very liquid) get into 4 rims? We're talking what feels to be quite a bit.

So, this is why the seller may have felt sure that they were ok (they and the tire shop I went to both said they balanced fine) but they still vibrate.

Why does water balance in the wheel ok when spun up on a tire balancing machine but not when driving the car?

HOW THE HECK DOES WATER GET INSIDE A WHEEL SO MUCH THAT IT SLOSHES?

Is there some sort of sealant that stays liquid to that extent?

Was someone submerging f'd up leaky wheels in a tank and leaving them there so that they filled up with water as the air left or something?

First person to get me the answer gets a slightly used set of spacers! I sure don't need them anymore.

 

fix a flat sloshes around inside wheels

they cant balance ok if they are filled with water...wtf

if u want, you could take a bar and break the tire bead and try to let the water out and then refill it with air...or pay a shop to do it

 

Didn't read the last couple of long post but I suspected bent wheel or wheel bearing?
Might wanna get them rebalanced. Some shops don't to a good job or maybe the weights fell off during shipping?

 

not a wheel bearing because it doesn't happen with his 17s.

he got them rebalanced, read his last post

 

Removed the schraeder valve from one and a good bit (but obviously not nearly all ) of water spit out with the air. Felt and smelled it and it isn't sealant but apparently just water.

Bizarre. The seller has agreed to ship them back at his cost and refund my money. We'll see how that goes. I could wind up with no wheels and no money!

thanks for the input. I'm still trying to figure out how water gets inside the wheels like that.

Lesson: consider the worst case when buying used wheels.

 

why are u sending them back if they just have water in them?

 

1. Metal wheels and water inside the rim don't make for long lasting wheels from what I have read.

2. They don't hold air. (lost 15-23 lbs each in less than a week, and one arrived 15 lbs low) From my research corrosion/oxidation around the rim would be a probable reason why. Makes sense to me, as THEY ARE FULL OF WATER! LOL. Another reason would be that the rims have small internal cracks. Either way not good prospects for having no further issues down the line.

3. Another possible reason for slow leaking would be that someone damaged the bead on the tires or even the rim slightly when installing them. I noticed a rather unprofessional install job had been done at some point in its history because the edge of the rim has characteristic black scrapes along it where someone who didn't know what he was doing mounted the tires. (not curb rash). If I take it to a shop to demount the tires to drain them the seller could just claim my shop damaged the beads and refuse to take them back.

3. How does water get inside a rim? Does any scenario for that (we're talking what seems to be pints maybe, not just a few teaspoons) sound encouraging for the long term viability (or the previous history) of the wheels?

4. Removing the water would involve yet another trip to/from a tire shop and another expenditure of moohla to demount, drain, dry, clean the rim, coat the rim with a substance that repairs any oxidation, remount, and balance the wheels. The seller knows it costs no more than that would cost for him to pay $180 to ship them back and fix them himself at his shop. (it's a wheel reseller). He knows he will get to inspect them in person and see if I'm telling the truth, vs just writing checks to my tire company on my word or theirs. He also likely knows I no longer trust the wheels and will probably harrass him get my money back one way or another anyway.

5. I've dumped hours into these screwy wheels already. Not prepared to get to the shop and get yet more bad news. After about hour 8 or 10 you decide it's their problem, not yours.

6. I get a full refund plus shipping charges plus what it cost me to have the rebalanced. All I lose is around $100 on the spacers. Fine with me.

7. I'm not wedded to the wheels or even the car. The idea was to have a 3rd car for parking at the airport and running around places one wouldn't want to drive a new BMW X5, ( some places you do not really want to do that and for our reasons did not want to show up in an expensive car sometimes). I wanted a car I felt was "nice" to drive (safe, good handling, decently refined, etc) , but not "too nice", if that makes sense. But I wanted to have a little better style and performance than a stock '06 G35 w/o dropping a ridiculous amount into a new set of wheels and suspension upgrade, and I didn't particularly love any of the aftermarket choices I felt affordable enough to make sense on an old car. I also don't plan on owning the car too much longer, so an expensive upgrade didn't make sense and I wanted OEM wheels so I could easily resell them for most of what I had in the deal.

I will be glad to give the seller your email if you would like to buy them from him. : )

 

good seller to deal with