Well I will let the pictures do the talking, but my camber is WAY off in the rear and I honestly am not even sure where to start to get it adjusted back out to spec. I have the traction and camber arms in the rear and the a-arms in the front from Kinetix Racing. I had some bad camber before installing the camber kit, but it is much worse now (the picture of the tread coming off the ground should emphasize this).

The last picture I posted has circled the camber arm adjustment piece and the traction arm adjustment piece. I am guessing that the camber arm is the one that I took a picture of by itself, that come directly behind the rotor and goes perpendicular to the rest of the car? My toe and caster I am honestly not concerned with getting correct because I can only eye that up so much and when I take my car to an alignment shop they will be able to get that done easily (with the traction arm I am assuming). I just want to adjust the camber arm to get the wheel somewhat straight again and not completely ruin my tires or drive worrying about my safety.

Thanks for any help, and if more pictures are needed let me know. My car is lowered on JIC FLTA2 Coilovers about 3" in the rear and about 2.25-2.5" in the front.

 

Did you just install the camber kit. I am not a suspension guy but it seems that you need to adjust the tie-rod that you circled in blue. You seem to have some thread left to bring in the bottom of the wheel. I would get a carpenters square and set it against the floor creating a 90 degree angle to your tire/wheel. The amount of gap between the top sidewall of your tire and the edge of the square is the distance that needs to be taken out of the tie-rod that you circled in blue. This will atleast get you in the ballpark enough to have someone align it professionally. I have also heard that excessive toe-in is worse than neg. camber. Just the thought of the tires grinding against the pavement proves this to me.
Does any of this make sense? Uh...I can make a speaker box.

4080

 

I love the speaker box comment at the bottom.. haha. you can though, I remember reading about them.

I have discovered that it is the camber rod that I need to adjust circled in blue. I planned on taking a level and just taping it to the wheel spokes and trying to get it as close to level as possible. I really just want ALL the damn tread of the tire to be on the ground.. the toe can obviously be taken care of when the car is on the alignment rack.

Thanks for the input.. you sounded like a suspension guy; could have fooled me. And toe is worse than camber on tires.

jason

 

did you just install the camber and traction rods? Did you adjust the hieght of your car? You need to get an alignment when you install the camber and traction rods.

From the picture you need to go get an alignment ASAP!

2003 G35 Coupe 6mt Diamond Graphite
AIM= bkchang79
http://www.sounddomain.com/id/bkchang79

 

HOLY SHI TT!!!! Man, get that checked out and be carefull, something needs to be adjusted bigtime there, good luck with it!


Martin
2003.5 BS G35
Nismo Aero/Sport Package
0-60 5.4 - 1/4 Mile 14.16 *GTech* and on 19's!!

 

Haha.. yeah I know I need an alignment. The 350z guys have helped me tremendously and I am going to make the adjustments on the camber arm today and take the car in later this week or this weekend. My biggest problem now is how much damn noise the control arms are making up front. I hope it's an easy fix, because I have not been doing well with suspension parts lately.

My rear JIC shock starting pissing out fluid while messing with the rest of this stuff, so that is a new fun game I get to deal with.

jason

 

Do you like the Kenetix kit? I need to buy one too. Did you install it. That noise that your are talking about up front scares me.

 

Well after some great support from Jamison on kinetix's site I may have pinpointed the noise.. It seems the front arms rub on the fender liner as the wheel gets turned slightly. Part of the problem is also the bolt behind the ball-joint loosening itself and possibly causing noise as well. For the money, this kit is the best.. but the 350evo front arms are a much better purchase if your wallet has no limits.

jason

 

What about SPC? I am in the market for camber arms as well. my rear camber looks like yours in the pic too. I have eibach springs btw. SPC arms are really cheap. I think I remember seeing them for like $250 for both arms or something?? Anyone have any feedback on SPC???

5AT Coupe, Black/ Black, Chrome 18s, Premium, Aero w/spoiler, Eibach springs, Clear corners, Overlays

 

Is there a fix for these noise problems? I am having the Kinetix front A arms intalled on Wednesday?

 

As far as the noise goes for the front arms, I am almost positive I have found the source. The inner fender liner seems to be rubbing on the ball joint when the wheel gets turned in or out slightly (and when the car gets raised up). Also, if the nut on the horizontal threaded bolt is loose at all, it will cause some noise. It doesn't seem that the noise could come from anywhere else.

As far as the question about the SPC arms go I am not sure of their quality, but I am also not even sure who sells them? I am trying to buy the SPC Camber/Toe bolts as well as the Rotary File Set to bore out the holes for the eccentric bolts and replace them. When you lower the car beyond 3" it seems that it takes a lot of work on this car to get everything in align; much to my dismay of course. Who sells SPC stuff around here?

jason

 

Jason, is there anyway to fix the problem so it doesnt rub on the inner fender?

 

Just cut away about a 4" long by 1" section of the fender liner I would imagine. I am going to figure out my rear issue this weekend or next week and get my new JIC shock hopefully and then take my car in for an alignment.

I have too many things going wrong all at ONE time to figure it all out, it's annoying. I am going to try and look at the front this weekend, and I will DEFINITELY take tons of pictures of what is rubbing and what needs to be trimmed. Someone has to do the trial and error on this stuff I guess.

Whose idea was it to lower my damn car this much! haha..

 

I forgot to ask you on the PM I sent you on My350z, I wanted to know how difficult was it to install everything? the rear arms look like they would be fairly easy but the front look like they may be a pain, did you have to remove the whole front coilover/strut to install the front a-arms?

 

The control arms are a breeze compared to the rear arms.. Everything is so tight in the rear and the bolts/nuts are ridiculously torqued down in the rear (even for an impact). The install is pretty straight forward of the parts, just make sure to keep the traction arms the same length as the stock pieces for install purposes and then shorten them all the way in when installed and adjust the camber arm to stock length for install and then bring it in as needed. This is make things much easier (as I found out on side #2).

The front is simple.. take out the cotter pin, remove bolt, remove rear bolts, spin the coilover spring around to be able to slide the bolts out and then pull the control arm out. Match up the kinetix piece, rotate the ball joint to stock length and then go about 2-3 turns past stock to get near perfect camber (for my setup at least) and lock down the adjusting nut on the horizontal bolt. Put it back in, put the bolts back in on the rear, drop the ball joint in and tighten the crap out of the locking nut (it will barely reach the locking threads). And I know this now, but trim out the fender liner so it doesn't rub!

Any questions feel free to PM me.. I'd be happy to answer phone calls if you prefer. Like I said on my350z, I look to help as much as I can because when I need help I know I appreciate it.

jason