I hope you can read these, I had to control file size's in converting the PDF files to Jpeg's.


Oem G35 sedan alignment specs

Front:


REAR:



Oem G35 coupe alignment specs

FRONT:


REAR:



Oem 350Z alignment specs

FRONT:


REAR:

 

nutty:

Whoever that tech was that insisted you use the I35 specs is a complete moron. He must have thought "I35, G35, it's only off by two letters...no big deal!" I would say you should try to get at least your money back that you paid for the alignment. Getting them to pay for new tires might be a bit difficult but nevertheless it doesn't hurt to try. And never, ever go back there again.

kenchan:

Are you suggesting the 0.29 total rear toe in that you posted above? Care to elaborate why? Man, I need to get some books on suspensions and school myself.

 

Gsedan35 - totally concur on the bushing issue... but the problem is that spherical bearings come at quite a hefty price - one that the average joe like myself isn't willing to pay (I went with the SPC camber/toe kit and am quite pleased - everything is exactly how I wanted it: -1.6 deg camber, 1mm toe-in per side on rear) - if my car touched the track more than twice a year, however, I'd have 350evo parts galore on my car... but like I said, perfection comes with a price...

 

In hind sight ... I wouldn't be surprised if the I35 alignment specs are actually pretty close to the G35 specs. The more important question to ask is what your final alignment specs are. Having deviated from the stock ride height by nearly an inch, some kind of compromise had to be made (more toe or more camber) and that's a crucial judgement call by the tech working on your car. If they chose more toe ... that could accelerate your tire wear.

Being heavy footed certainly plays a big role in how long the tires will last. But, excessive balding at one extreme edge of the tire is almost always the product of alignment settings. Another tip is to monitor your tire pressure. Modern low-profile tires have fairly stiff sidewall that when running just a couple of PSI lower means a dramatic increase in outside edge wear. I ran my Dunlop SP9000 at 36psi. I was also able to get 15,000+ miles out of them. That included 4 visits to the drag strip (doing burn-outs before each run). I'm running 1/32" (nearly zero) of *total* toe-in at the rear and they sit at apporx. -1.7* camber. I've since moved on to the Bridgestone Potenza S03s ... we'll see how these fair.

btw ... do you have the KD? KDW? or the KDW2??? The first two variants are notorious for wearing out fast!

 

yeah i have the KDW. i think i have a bit of toe in or out or something. the wear was all in the center mostly.

 

Center?!?! LOL ... ya keep throwing us in a loop Nutty (no pun intended).

If it's center ... then I do not believe alignment played a huge role there. If fact, you may consider dropping the tire pressure just a touch. But it sounds like you've got to ease off your right leg!

The KDW series-1 was not very wear friendly if I recalled correctly. The newer series-2 are suppose to be very good.

 

well, i usually shift at 2k so it shouldnt have been thaaaat bad, and i had my psi set at no more than 35.

argh. stupid dumb BFG!!!!