Hey my DPE wheels should be ready in a couple of weeks. I'm trying to figure out the best way to drop my coupe.

Right now I'm thinking of going with RSR Down springs for the Z paired with Tokico D-Spec shocks. Does anyone else have this setup?

I'm not looking for an aggressive drop, mostly trying to loss the wheel gap. I thought about the Tein H but the wheel gap in on the rear still looks a little big to me from the pictures I've seen posted.

I am trying to avoid the need for a camber kit.

Thanks,
Chris
~And, I did use search many times on this subject. One problem I had is RSR is unsearchable here.

 

The RS-R down springs for the Z will drop it 0.6 in front and rear so figure about a 1.1 drop all around for the coupe. Not too agressive so that seems to fit what you are looking for. Also the spring rates are a bit stiffer over OEM. IMO these springs are a good choice paired with the D-Specs. The D-specs are much more controlled over the OEM coupe shocks (I've test driven a stock coupe and a D-spec equipped sedan) and paired with stiffer springs like the Downs will handle noticably better.


G35coupe OEM 314/342 lbs/in
RS-R Down 350Z 345/417 lbs/in

 

I have Tein S-Tech for the 350Z, which results in a 1" drop on the coupe (heavier). They are advertised as a .7" drop for the 350Z. The RSR might get you a 1" drop also due to the difference in weight between the two vehicles. As far as the D-Specs, I have them also and I must say it's a good setup. I wore out my OEM shocks in about a year. The car handles better than stock and the dampening of the D-specs is much better than stock shocks. Right now I have the rears set to 4 from full stiff, but I'm still trying combos for the fronts. It seems 5 is very luxury like and feels kinda squishy with little feedback of what the front wheels are doing. 4.5 is just a tad too stiff, but offers great feedback. I'm trying 4.75 to see what that offers. 4+4 may work well for stock springs, but the S-tech has rates similar to the RSRs.

 

Thanks for the info guys, it really helps.

Deang35c6 – Would you say the stock setup is closer to 5 setting on the D-Specs when paired with S-Techs? Or what? Also I should go with D-Specs for the Z if I get Z style springs? I notice in your sig that you have a camber kit. Do you think that I need one if the Down springs lower me by an inch?

I've got a set of S-Techs for the G but I was afraid they would drop the car more than an inch and I would definitely need a camber kit.

 

with any springs but the H-techs, you will need a camber kit (anything over a 1/2" drop will put the specs out of whack) - I'm dropped around an inch all the way around and before an alignment (with camber/toe kit) my camber was -1.8 deg in front and -2.3 deg in the rear - after alignment I was able to get the rear to -1.6 with the perfect amount of toe-in (f/r), so I'm happy as is since I'm not going to spend $500-800 to simply save 4-5k miles on a set of tires...

 

bzabodyn, I found the SPC Camber-Toe Kit for the rear for $219 on ebay. Which would work for my budget. Sounds like you're happy with them. Am I correct in understanding that you're not using any kit up front? Also how do the SPC Camber-Toe Kit and the Kinetix kits compare, is one better than the other?

thx ~Chris

 

Yes, I would say 5 from full firm is close to stock, but remember I'm running pretty aggressive spring rates. The D-specs do a really good job in controlling the S-techs, so it could handle your G S-techs. I recommend 4 from full stiff and go from there. My current settings are 4 in the rear and between 4.5 and 4.75 in the front (4 5/8). This is enough to get good road feel in the front without being too firm. From what I've seen, any drop of an inch would throw your alignment off. The 350Z S-tech gave me a 1" drop, which put my front alignment at -1.9 and my rears at -2.0 after an alignment. With the Kinetix A and camber arms, and SPC toe bolts, my alignment is now -1.1 in the front and -1.3 in the rear. I greased the hell out of the Kinetix A-arms and they only squeak a little when going over speed bumps and not a peep from them otherwise. Based on Jim (Gsedan35), if you're running a 350Z spring or a spring that drops you +1", then get the 350Z D-specs. They both have the same dampening, but the rears for the 350Z are a little shorter.

 

I have this setup with my front at 4 and rear at 3.5. I first had my rear at 3 but it was too stiff, making this half adjustment actually was noticeable. I'm using the 350Z springs and it doesn't drop too low. It covers up the wheel gap. With the current setup, I think it's neutral. There's no hint of understeer or oversteer. When taking turns hard, I can break loose if I choose...or not. Ride is only slightly rougher than stock, but not too drastic. HWY cruising is fine. It's just on the bumpier/older streets.

 

Gosooners,

It's freaky how neutral the car is now. I've had such aggressive camber in the front and rear for so long, that now that my car is in spec it feels funny. I have to relearn my car's limits now. I have to admit the negative camber did wonders for handling, but were hell on tires. You're right about the half turns and even 1/4 turns work. You have 19s and running 4 and 3.5? I wouldn't dare do that up here in Chicago. 4 and 4 5/8 is good enough for me.

 

Be very carefull in learing how a new setup behaves, especially one that see's different shock settings in the rear. What may behave fine in slow transistion's, may bite you in a quick move, like a "turn in" test.

 

Jim,

Trust me, with the D-specs, Kinetix control arm, traction and cambers arms and my summer setup, the car feels so differently now. I'm taking it slow, because of this and also because 50 degree weather isn't exactly Toyo season. The -1.3 in the rear is the most obvious change from the -2.0 I was at before. The rear wheels sit up straight and offers alot more rubber to the ground, which translates to unbelievable acceleration from 0 and from a roll. However, the -2.0 was a safety net I don't have anymore and oversteer is something I have to watch out for now. Then again, all of the 275 width Toyos are making contact with the ground, so the car might actually handle better now.

 

Yes, I'm running 3.5 in the rear. Roads aren't bad here in Oklahoma. I'd have to attribute the slight roughness to the stiffer springs, not the dampening. Also, in the rear, I'm running 285/35 tires so comfort is increased slightly with an increase in understeer as well. I have an autox event here in 2 weeks. We'll see how it goes. I'm still researching around for a good camber kit at a decent price.