For the Kreuzers ... 19 X 8 @ +38 is the best you can do. The offsets don't go any lower. They'll fit just fine, but will look even better w. a set of 5mm spacer to bring them out a bit closer to the fender.

 

Camber is not the enemy, THX is correct. Toe is.

Think about a tire rolling along on the road. If the tire had 0 toe and 0 camber, it's just rolling flat. It will, theoretically, wear completely evenly.

If you were to add some toe, it's like rotating the tire about the central point of its contact patch. As the tire is pushed by the car, it actually cannot roll straight. It has to drag the tire a little bit in order to move the contact patch forwards. An extremeexample would be if you had 90 degrees of toe. The wheel would be perpendicular to the direction of motion and the tire would be 100% dragging along the road.

Now, go back to 0 toe. Add some camber. All you're doing is changing the central axis of the contact patch -- you're leaning the tire over. With 0 toe, you're really not changing the contact patch significantly. You're adding some weight on the cambered edge (in most cases, the inside, as you increase negative camber when lowering) but this is not significant. A tire with some camber and 0 toe will wear almost flat, depending on the amount of camber (less than 2 degrees is almost insignificant here)

Now, here's the kicker. If you have toe AND camber, you get accelerated edge wear. Why? Well, as you add camber and toe, the contact patch changes much faster. Additionally, remember that dragging action that comes from toe? Well, if you drag your hand across the pavement, but put more pressure on the palm than the fingers, which is going to "feel" more roughed up? Because the camber adds weight (effectively) to the inside edge of the tire you're now dragging that part of the tire along harder as the car moves.

The result? Toe + Camber = more tire wear than just camber.

The factory settings most likely call for a little toe-in in the front. This aids high-speed stability while sacrificing some turn-in performance. For most people who don't race their cars all the time, there is no need for toe out.

If you are lowering your car, as the suspension moves, the alignment changes. Typically the change is more negative camber and increased toe-in. On some cars this is extreme, like the DC5/EP3 RSX/Civic, as the tie-rod is too short and causes huge changes in toe.

Anyway, long story short, don't worry about adding even up to 2 degrees of camber. As long as you have your toe set close to zero, you will be good on tire wear. Remember that even if your static toe is set to zero, as your car begins to roll forwards friction and drag will actually cause the front tires/wheels to move backwards towards the back of the car as the bushings and other tolerances in the suspension come into play, so your dynamic toe will always be a little more toe out.