Greddy E-Ultimate Tuning Help Wanted
#1
Greddy E-Ultimate Tuning Help Wanted
Hi Guys,
I'm in Canada and there are no decent tuners anywhere within a few hours drive for me. I have already paid to have this dyno-tuned and I was not convinced these guys knew what they were doing. I have to try to do this myself. The TT installer has adjusted one map in the E-Ultimate software (Injector Adjustment) but that is the only place adjustments have been made.
Can anyone offer some suggestions on how I can tune this myself? The software offers a quite a few data-logging features so I can monitor a run, but without a dyno, I have to do this on the street. I have a pretty good place to go where I can stop and drive up to 60 mph in a straight line without ever seeing another car.
Here is the current map:
My other adjustment choices are:
What else should be adjusted and how can I tell when something is right or wrong?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'm in Canada and there are no decent tuners anywhere within a few hours drive for me. I have already paid to have this dyno-tuned and I was not convinced these guys knew what they were doing. I have to try to do this myself. The TT installer has adjusted one map in the E-Ultimate software (Injector Adjustment) but that is the only place adjustments have been made.
Can anyone offer some suggestions on how I can tune this myself? The software offers a quite a few data-logging features so I can monitor a run, but without a dyno, I have to do this on the street. I have a pretty good place to go where I can stop and drive up to 60 mph in a straight line without ever seeing another car.
Here is the current map:
My other adjustment choices are:
What else should be adjusted and how can I tell when something is right or wrong?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
#3
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If you have an A/F gauge then I wouldn't be worried about fuel as much as I would timing. I hated my EU, but love the UTEC- datalogging is pretty easy on a laptop and you can keep it in the seat next to you and watch every single little thing. I've got it where I can just "plug and play" now. But I still leave any major adjustments up to the tuner.
Anyway you wanna post the timing map? Only major difference I see is how the scale is set up... timing per rpm/load should be able to be figured out to about the same
Anyway you wanna post the timing map? Only major difference I see is how the scale is set up... timing per rpm/load should be able to be figured out to about the same
#7
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#9
#10
alright, here is what you need to do to set it up right.
you need to add a map sensor, its cheap. add that and then set up your tables to be say -10 psi and scale its way up to about one more psi than you will be running. for a safe rule of thumb, leave all the negative timing on zeros and then once you get into positive boost, take out -3 ALL the way across any where you have positive boost. then, for each PSI of boost, take out one more -1 per psi. ex. 1 PSI = -3 , 2 PSI = -4, 3 PSI = -5 and so on up to your peak boost you are running.
also set up your fuel with PSI instead of off of the maf sensor wire voltage. this is the only way to do this with our factory maf signals unless you are running under 8 psi. last thing to do is to set that rpm boost cut up at the top that reads "clamp" when you open it to around 4.64 all the way across it. right now when you get to 5 volts on your maf, the car probably shuts down.....
good luck, thanks!!
give us a call today if you need that sensor
you need to add a map sensor, its cheap. add that and then set up your tables to be say -10 psi and scale its way up to about one more psi than you will be running. for a safe rule of thumb, leave all the negative timing on zeros and then once you get into positive boost, take out -3 ALL the way across any where you have positive boost. then, for each PSI of boost, take out one more -1 per psi. ex. 1 PSI = -3 , 2 PSI = -4, 3 PSI = -5 and so on up to your peak boost you are running.
also set up your fuel with PSI instead of off of the maf sensor wire voltage. this is the only way to do this with our factory maf signals unless you are running under 8 psi. last thing to do is to set that rpm boost cut up at the top that reads "clamp" when you open it to around 4.64 all the way across it. right now when you get to 5 volts on your maf, the car probably shuts down.....
good luck, thanks!!
give us a call today if you need that sensor
#11
Thanks for the info. Just a couple of questions...
I don't see where a map sensor would connect to the E-Ultimate in the wiring diagram. Where would it connect?
Fuel adjustment allows three options 1- throttle position %, 2-airflow hot wire v, 3- charge efficiency %. How do I get PSI as an option?
I don't see where a map sensor would connect to the E-Ultimate in the wiring diagram. Where would it connect?
Fuel adjustment allows three options 1- throttle position %, 2-airflow hot wire v, 3- charge efficiency %. How do I get PSI as an option?
#14