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#16
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#17
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The reason I typically recommend keeping the sealant / wax combo within the same brand is because often there is some synergy created between them and there's almost no bonding issues. In the two products you mentioned, Jet Seal and Natty's Blue, you shouldn't see any bonding issues. Regarding the polish, PO106FF should do a great job on the hologramming you are describing, however the bird dropping etching may be another story. I've seen bird bombs that come out w/ PO106FF and some that require wet sanding to completely remove. It's really all depending on how deep it has etched into your clear. Certainly use the pads you already have. As Blueboxer mentioned, consider picking up a white polishing pad (or equivalent) to follow up from the orange cutting pad. Sometimes the more aggressive pads can leave behind micro-marring which can be corrected with a finer pad combo. Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with. George
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DetailedImage.com - Your source for auto detailing supplies | 10offG35 - 10% Off Coupon Detailing Guide - SALE Items - FREE Product Give Away - Product Reviews Professional Detailing Articles - Twitter |
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#18
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George
__________________
DetailedImage.com - Your source for auto detailing supplies | 10offG35 - 10% Off Coupon Detailing Guide - SALE Items - FREE Product Give Away - Product Reviews Professional Detailing Articles - Twitter |
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#19
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That would be great, I am anxious to try the Pete's 53 or 50/50. We can all have a detail off and post some pics. PS- thanks for getting the last order out so quickly, it got here a day early too. |
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#20
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From what I've read on this forum, the PO106ff seems to be a "miracle worker", but I'm not familiar enough with it to know if it will take care of defects such as this. Is there a slightly more aggressive polish/pad that you'd recommend or should I just keep going over the affected area with the PO106ff until the spot is gone? Quote:
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2008 G37S 6MT Black/Black | 2001 F-150 Crew 4X4 Blue/Grey
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#21
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Thanks for the info George! And thanks mods for stickying..
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Obsidian Black// Volk // SPC // Fujita // Tanabe //
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#22
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#23
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![]() Going with a sealant on a MB metallic black (just ordered some jet seal from you due to the pics in this thread ). Figured after paint correction, i'd apply DWG, give it at least 30 mins, then top with jet seal and send him on his way. ...But with the instruction to rinse the car off the next day and apply some AquaWax spray wax as LSP.Aquawax is decent enough stuff, locally available, and easy for him to do. Get him into the habit of washing it, and applying some aquawax to keep the protection until it's time to reapply the sealant. Am I doing him a disservice with this routine? Any reason why i wouldn't want to put some DWG on there before the jet seal? |
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#24
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#25
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No Brilliant Silver?
Edit:I didn't mean for that to sound like , I was just wondering
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#26
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#27
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any reccomendations for laser red?...
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2003 Laser Red G35C 6MT Brembos, 20" Asanti AF-112..... |
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#28
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Thanks Glycerine
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#29
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I recently stopped using Zaino on my 07 G35 and moved to Optimum.
I cant believe how it works on ivory pearl. Insane slickness, gloss, and ease-of-use. |
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#30
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darn too bad i read this thread a day after i bought blackfire wet diamond for my white g... tried it out on my hood and front fenders after final polishing with PO85RD, added 2 coats with 1/2 hour time between each application. the shine is a little better, but not by much. but the slickness--oh man, unbelievable! never felt any LSP this slick ever.
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| Tags |
| 845, blackfire, calgary, care, collinite, diamond, infiniti, interior, ivory, menzerna, metallic, paint, pearl, sealant, wet |
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