After a bunch of headaches and switching out of cylinders, the cause of this problem for me was the clutch line being clogged/restricted. Easy fix, try changing it first. Make sure you wrap it in heat-wrap as well.

 

I have been experiencing this in my 05 Coupe. I changed the fluid twice and it is still happening. Any suggestions on brand to replace my master and slave cylinder?

 

I just had the same problem today. Uphill, waited at stop sign.
But meanwhile I could smell something like burnt aluminum.
I was so afraid that I needed to replace the flywheel and clutch set, becuase I am saving money for the turbo setup..

it will work ok for me if $75 to change master cylinder.

I will call dealer on monday anyway...

 

thanks

 

Update: Replaced/cycled clutch fluid with DOT4. Sticking went away for a few weeks but just started to come back once in a while. Changing the fluid has been the most cost effective improvement by far.

 

Had the same problem as all you guys. I've also found that changing the fluid fixes almost all the problems. I just used the ranger method and got out as much as possible and replaced with the DOT 4 and haven't had many problems since. A few times it was a little sticky, but only in really high heat and a lot of stop and go. I will probably try to completely flush it to fix this.

 

I had this same problem a couple of years ago. Pedal would stop a few inches short and it also squeeked. It was driving me crazy so I got under there and slaped some litium grease on everything down there and it instantly fixed my problem. I've since put 40k miles on the car and it hasn't occured again even once. Everybody needs to try the litium grease before anything else.

 

T3K V35 should know what he is talking about and to back it up ... i had my whole clutch, flywheel, all bearings, slave and Master cylinder replaced. I had all the fluids replaced, bleed and the problem still exists. I am going to do what he (T3K V35) said and replace the assist spring and bushing then clean and lube everything.
And mine only does it when it's hot too.

 

So I have been having a similar problem. Here's the scoop:

2006 G35 Coupe 6MT was complaining about hydraulic problems (pedal sticking).

Needed a new clutch, so I threw in a new OEM flywheel and an NSK1000 complete clutch kit. Also installed a new transmission cover, pin ball, pin ball washer, input shaft seal, and cover gasket. The 4 bolts at the bottom of the cover are one time use only!

Got everything back together, bolted up the slave - low and behold a sticking pedal - I immediately attributed this to the customer's complaint and shrugged it off as "not a big deal, I'll just bleed it when I'm done with everything."

Once I got it all back together, I started bleeding it.. for HOURS on end - no improvement. I threw a clutch master and slave kit (oem) at it as a last ditch effort, tried every bleeding technique I could think of and nothing seemed to help.

At this point I assumed there was an air bubble I just wasn't going to get out and that it was someone else's turn to waste hours of their time on this.

Customer picked up the car and drove away.. a few hours later it occurred to me - the clutch fork holder spring INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION was installed upside down... this is what was preventing all the air from getting out of the system during bleeding.

Moral of the story is: if you get a clutch job done and they can't bleed it after, check the clutch fork holder spring! I've attached a photo of what it looks like installed incorrectly. You want the ears facing upwards, not downwards where they can interfere with the movement of the fork.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but I've been reading anything and everything I can find and was hoping you all could provide some advice.

And sorry about the long post. I tend to make long posts instead of posting a bunch of follow-ups with more questions.

Anyhow...

My brother's '05 has had this problem probably since the car hit 35k miles and he never got it taken care of. Fast forward to 55k miles and now the clutch is slipping.

1. I'm looking at the factory OEM clutch kit for ~$345 shipped from a dealership vs Exedy OEM NSK1000 for ~$220 shipped from Exedy. Opinions?

2. A co-worker's mechanic friend said he can swap the clutch out for $450 in labor. Good/Decent price?

3. Should I consider getting the master/slave cylinders (or just the slave cylinder), cable, and fluid (DOT4) replaced, and pedal greased by the guy all at the same time while he's down there changing the clutch out? What would be considered a reasonable charge in labor to do so?

4. Is #3 something learnable/doable on your own? Seems like bleeding the clutch fluid and greasing the pedal assembly would be simple enough after watching some videos and reading a little. The slave cylinder seems straightforward as well but I'm not sure if it'd be a pain to reach while under the hood.

I see the slave cylinder here; says it's for 03-05 but the part number doesn't seem to correct for 05s (should it still work fine?). Good price as well?

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...305-30620cd00a

Don't see a master cylinder on their site. Any recommendations on where I can find an OEM master cylinder at a good price or would you all say that the master cylinder likely has nothing to do with the clutch pedal sticking?

Thanks for any detailed help/information.