AWD powertrain fluid drain
#1
AWD powertrain fluid drain
I own an 07' g35x and recently completed front/rear differential, transfercase and ATF drain and fill. Info is out there but I dont see any comprehensive article detailing an how-to on these. I didn't have time to take pictures but I'll be as detailed as possible.
1. Rear Differential: rear diff is located between the rear wheels. fill and drain nut requires 10mm hex adapter and i highly recommend using a breaker bar to make things easier. remove fill nut first, then drain nut. after fluid drains out install drain nut; pump in fresh differential fluid (i used amsoil 75w90 severe gear lub) until it leaks out of the fill hole. about 1.5quarts should go in.
2. Transfer Case: Tcase is located behind the auto transmission. fill plug is 10mm hex, drain nut is 1/2 nut square nut. my breaker bar uses 1/2 nut square end so it worked out. again remove fill plug first THEN drain plug. remember this isnt thick like diff fluid; it is actually a form of ATF(very thin) and since drain hole faces you instead of the ground be ready for the fluid to shoot out. drain nut from factory does not use any crushwasher instead has RTV silicone on the threads. i personally didnt bother as the older goop was on there thick so it didnt leak for me but you should be ready with new RTV incase. reinstall drain nut then pump in fluid until it leaks out (i used nissan matic-D). about 1.5q went in.
3. Front Differential: this is a pain. front diff is hiding behind front undertray, not ONE person seems to mention there is no access panel or opening for it. thank you g35 community for lack of details! anyhow undertray is actually two pieces, the center rectangle-like skid pad and larger piece that covers most of the front bumper area. you ONLY need to remove the center portion to get access to the front diffs; i got lazy and removed most of the nut so i can just bend it down and get full access. drain and fill bolt is 10mm hex. fill plug area is VERY tight. same idea as rear diff, drain and fill. used amsoil severe gear again. about 1 quart went in, maybe alittle less.
4. Auto transmission fluid: AT oil pan is very large, its hard to miss it(it sits slightly behind and between the front wheels if you dont know). drain plug is on bottom of oil pan. i believe its 17mm nut(i forgot sorry). drain and measure amount. again remember ATF is thin and will shoot out fast. hot ATF expands so remember pour in slightly less of your new cold ATF. first time i ever did this, i got about 3.5quarts. second time i got 4quarts so it can vary. i used nisssan matic-J.
fill plug is dipstick tube itself. dipstick tube is located behind the engine and close to the battery. dipstick is held by 10mm bolt. use a thin and long funnel and pour in your new fluid. there are many schools out thought on ATF changes; my method is the "safest" but requires more time and wastes abit more fluid. you can drain more fluid by getting at the ATF cooler lines by the radiator but i did not bother as i do this method often so my ATF never gets too burnt.
goodluck!
1. Rear Differential: rear diff is located between the rear wheels. fill and drain nut requires 10mm hex adapter and i highly recommend using a breaker bar to make things easier. remove fill nut first, then drain nut. after fluid drains out install drain nut; pump in fresh differential fluid (i used amsoil 75w90 severe gear lub) until it leaks out of the fill hole. about 1.5quarts should go in.
2. Transfer Case: Tcase is located behind the auto transmission. fill plug is 10mm hex, drain nut is 1/2 nut square nut. my breaker bar uses 1/2 nut square end so it worked out. again remove fill plug first THEN drain plug. remember this isnt thick like diff fluid; it is actually a form of ATF(very thin) and since drain hole faces you instead of the ground be ready for the fluid to shoot out. drain nut from factory does not use any crushwasher instead has RTV silicone on the threads. i personally didnt bother as the older goop was on there thick so it didnt leak for me but you should be ready with new RTV incase. reinstall drain nut then pump in fluid until it leaks out (i used nissan matic-D). about 1.5q went in.
3. Front Differential: this is a pain. front diff is hiding behind front undertray, not ONE person seems to mention there is no access panel or opening for it. thank you g35 community for lack of details! anyhow undertray is actually two pieces, the center rectangle-like skid pad and larger piece that covers most of the front bumper area. you ONLY need to remove the center portion to get access to the front diffs; i got lazy and removed most of the nut so i can just bend it down and get full access. drain and fill bolt is 10mm hex. fill plug area is VERY tight. same idea as rear diff, drain and fill. used amsoil severe gear again. about 1 quart went in, maybe alittle less.
4. Auto transmission fluid: AT oil pan is very large, its hard to miss it(it sits slightly behind and between the front wheels if you dont know). drain plug is on bottom of oil pan. i believe its 17mm nut(i forgot sorry). drain and measure amount. again remember ATF is thin and will shoot out fast. hot ATF expands so remember pour in slightly less of your new cold ATF. first time i ever did this, i got about 3.5quarts. second time i got 4quarts so it can vary. i used nisssan matic-J.
fill plug is dipstick tube itself. dipstick tube is located behind the engine and close to the battery. dipstick is held by 10mm bolt. use a thin and long funnel and pour in your new fluid. there are many schools out thought on ATF changes; my method is the "safest" but requires more time and wastes abit more fluid. you can drain more fluid by getting at the ATF cooler lines by the radiator but i did not bother as i do this method often so my ATF never gets too burnt.
goodluck!
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GXXXV X (04-02-2012)
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
This is a nice helpful post for many, wonder how i missed it... Nice share. Btw you should use matic-S for warranty reasons... though they should be exactly the same fluids with just a new name to help Nissan make more money, you want receipts with the correct fluid name on it if you ever need em for a tranny warranty issue. Infiniti is REALLY picky about tranny fluids when it comes to warranty repairs.
Last edited by kool_yaar; 03-16-2011 at 04:09 PM.
#3
How much harder was the front diff than the rear..i think i can do the rear myself..but front...idk
For the trans drain: Did you replace the filter as well...do you have to?
On and for all of these did you use 4 jack stands of equal height? thanks!
For the trans drain: Did you replace the filter as well...do you have to?
On and for all of these did you use 4 jack stands of equal height? thanks!
Last edited by Anton_Chigurh; 04-15-2011 at 07:26 PM.
#4
just did the rear end last week,, super easy,,,allthough if you want the old fluid ( which ever it is,, ) i always take out the DRAIN plug first,,, so as to lessen the gush of fluid coming out.....will be doing transfer case this sat.. the 13th.... i drive to a shop for these,,, and can use a real nice car hoist,, since i am lowerd,, just can't go anywhere....
#5
man i havent been back to my post in a LONG time...
our AT has built in filters, dont believe its meant to be servicable like other cars.
i drove my car on ramps, then put the rears on jack stands to be even.....
after about 11 month of driving (about 4000 miles), my car is still super smooth on matic-J in amsoil in the diffs...
our AT has built in filters, dont believe its meant to be servicable like other cars.
i drove my car on ramps, then put the rears on jack stands to be even.....
after about 11 month of driving (about 4000 miles), my car is still super smooth on matic-J in amsoil in the diffs...
#7
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#10
Well I am new here (couple of months) since I bought My 08 G35X and I would like to go ahead and do the Transmission (5A/T), tranfer case, and both diffs, I am wondering if someone can post or have pics of how all the above look like in the car and also what kind of fluids, I know for trans and transfer case should be nissan "something" but which one.... for the diffs I've read that mobil synt. 75W-90 gear oil its good?? inputs...
#11
theres alot of confusion understandably with nissan's alphabet soup naming convention. i want to clarify a few things to guide people along.
1. matic-S supersedes matic-J, they are both supported by nissan/infiniti but matic-s is "updated" hence i assume its better for the AT possible. either fluid is supported by nissan.
2. matic-D goes into the transfer case only! do not put the standard matic-S or J. this instruction is straight out of the tech manual.
3. i dont have feedback on the mobile1 75w90, i personally dont like mobile1 for powertrain fluids in ANY of my cars. i've stuck with amsoil 75w90 diff oil on nissans, mitsubishi, honda AND bmw throughout the years with great success.
1. matic-S supersedes matic-J, they are both supported by nissan/infiniti but matic-s is "updated" hence i assume its better for the AT possible. either fluid is supported by nissan.
2. matic-D goes into the transfer case only! do not put the standard matic-S or J. this instruction is straight out of the tech manual.
3. i dont have feedback on the mobile1 75w90, i personally dont like mobile1 for powertrain fluids in ANY of my cars. i've stuck with amsoil 75w90 diff oil on nissans, mitsubishi, honda AND bmw throughout the years with great success.
Last edited by mifesto; 03-05-2012 at 03:03 PM.
#12
just did the rear end last week,, super easy,,,allthough if you want the old fluid ( which ever it is,, ) i always take out the DRAIN plug first,,, so as to lessen the gush of fluid coming out.....will be doing transfer case this sat.. the 13th.... i drive to a shop for these,,, and can use a real nice car hoist,, since i am lowerd,, just can't go anywhere....
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
^ thats what they all say until one wretched day it happens to you and then you too will try your best to make sure no one else has to go through the same ordeal... and this comes from experience (in short: had a day off, took out drain plug first, fill got stuck, needed a hand torch, no other car to drive, friends and family at work... had to take the bus to the store)
Iv done tons of diffs on tons of different cars so wont consider myself to be 'newer' at this and would still suggest that people should first loosen the fill plug then do drain, other than taht everyone is free to do what they want!
Iv done tons of diffs on tons of different cars so wont consider myself to be 'newer' at this and would still suggest that people should first loosen the fill plug then do drain, other than taht everyone is free to do what they want!
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asav (10-07-2017)