When searching for this do a search for balance receivers. Line Output Converters normally take balanced speaker level outputs and convert to rca level inputs. Most are inductor based and from I have been reading the effect is typically muddy sound at best. Look for IC based balance receivers.

 

I'm considering bypassing the stock Bose amp as well, just wiring the OEM HU pre-outs directly to a JLA 300/4 using twisted pair RCAs. I have a 2006 sedan, my question is will I retain the factory Bluetooth functionality? Is that all handled at the head-unit and an incoming call simply gets routed to the Bose amp now, and so to the JLA 300/4 in the future? That's my only question -- don't want to lose that Bluetooth phone function.

 

Actually, I think I figured it out myself. Looking at the schematics in the service manual, it appears that the Telephone Adaptor Unit deals only with the factory HU and that the only interaction between everything and the Bose amp is the four HU line-level outs and the 12v remote turn-on. So if one simply replaces the Bose amp with a JLA 300/4 (diff bal inputs and all), one would have a much better amp and retain all the Bluetooth function. It's only the factory HU that can't simply be replaced and retain Bluetooth.

I feel much better now. I hate the Bose amp.

 

if you didn't want to go with an amp that has balanced input circuitry, you could also use the rockford balance line driver...it accepts a balanced signal and can output regular rca standard signal, all the while boosting the signal...which is nice considering the HU puts out a weaker signal...

 

That's good to know, but I already have a JLA 300/4 from my previous install and it's perfect for my speakers (Alpine SPX17-REFs) at 75w/ch. An hour or so of cutting, stripping, soldering, and buttoning up and I'll have the Bose amp out.

Honestly, the Bose amp doesn't sound terrible but the EQ monkey business it performs doesn't sound good to me. I can see someone adding a sub and better speakers and leaving it at that, though.

 

NON-BOSE Stereo Uprgrade.

Front 2-Way: Image Dynamics CTX65CS
Sub: Stereo Integrity BM mkIII - Already pre-ordered from DIYMA
Custom built box to spec.
Amp: JL HD600/4 - Powering fronts at 150x2 at 4 Ohms and Sub at 300x1 at 8ohms

My question is, after reading this entire thread closely, twice. I understand that the JL can accept differential balanced inputs, so if i took the LF + - and RF + - and spliced them into this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLR2...tab=review#tab that I would get a flat signal into the amplifier. I understand that the amplifier will be able to reproduce the sound from the stock HU, but I want the signal to be as flat as possible. Has it ever been determined that the signal coming from the NON-BOSE HU is flat, or close to being flat. If that is not the case, would using an Audiocontrol LC7 solve this issue?

I want to maintain a stock looking interior without the use of an aftermarket Double Din unit to save $1k.

Thanks for your time.

 

is it possible to keep everything the same including the stock amp but also add a subwoofer and a aftermarket amp just for that subwoofer?

 

I'm sure this has been done before, but I wired the speaker leads from the BOSE harness into an Alpine Imprint PXE-H650 and then the outputs into an Alpine PDX amp. Running an active front stage with 1 sub is incredible with the imaging of the Imprint system. Wouldn't even notice rear speakers.

 

I have a big problem, I bought a 1000w kenwood amp along with 2 12in subs. Whenever I turn off my car, the subs go off with a big explosion of base for a few seconds. If I have only one of the subs hooked up then it doesn't do it. I talked to a stereo place and they said that because I have a stock hu, it doesn't have a remote on and off button. Even if I turn off the power switch on my hu it still does it. Can I get some help.

 

G35 Clark, PM me. I too have the non-Bose HU, but have wired everything correctly to a JL HD900/5. I'll walk you through how to get it done.

 

my sound system shakes my whole car

 

I just put a kicker 700.5 in with a RF prefab dual 10" sub box. Sounds pretty good. Wiring was the easy part, mounting the mdf for the capacitor and amp was a little trickier.

The factory speakers are ok... the tweeters seem like they don't do cymbals real well. Sounds like the drummer is in another car. I can live with them for now... so not too bad.

Great guide - thank you to all the contributors!

 

I have read most of the thread, but still have a few unanswered questions. I have the NON-Bose HU & I want to upgrade to aftermarket Speakers, Amps, and Subs. I THINK that the RF-BLD would be a good alternative to an LOC & splicing wires, etc. correct? (http://www.hookedontronics.com/show_...jsp?cid=153113)
Is this unit "plug-n-play" with the factory Headunit in the sense that I can just plug into the high level inputs on the unit and run RCA's to my amp?
Where is the HL Input located on the factory radio?
Also, would i still have to do with the stock HU's crappy EQ this way?

For a system, I plan to run the HU to the BLD to maybe a Sundown 100.4 to some a passive component system. If anyone could provide input, that would be great

 

Definitely not plug-n-play. That linked product only handles two channels, instead of the four required to do fronts + rears. If you're only adding an amp, it's fine, but not if you're only replacing your rear speakers and subs.

Most amplifiers can handle speaker-level inputs, and some even have signal sensing technology so you don't have to run a remote power wire either. I know these features are pretty much standard on current-gen JL Audio amps, unlike the 100.4.

There is no high-level input on the stock radio, just high-level outputs, which run to the speakers, they'll have to be spliced if you're keeping the stock headunit. There is also no remote power wire, so it's recommend to connect it to the cigarette lighter for the remote power signal. If you're scared of splicing, you definitely should take it to a pro.

Since you have the base factory system, I'd recommend changing out the headunit first if you can't do everything at once. The headunits are known weak spots in our cars, and I'd hate to see a good aftermarket speaker/amp/sub setup with nothing to give it a signal.

 

Thanks.