Got a G35 a couple of weeks back and had Earmark in Addison (Dallas)
Texas do install with after market amps, speakers and sub. I was
really worried about the factory head unit but they recommended a
Soundgate LOC4.2 converter, two channel out, into a 11 band EQ.
This system absolutely blows me away. I had a Grand Prix before
with PAC LOC's that sucked. The factory head unit combined with
the Soundgate is awsome.

Just thought I would pas this along. The installer took the signal
from the back of the HU rather than from the harness at the Bose
amp.

 

Way cool. I'm in Plano and trying to find a place to do pretty much exactly the same thing, and was struggling to find the right installer. I want to keep the HU and replace everything else.

Questions for you.

What speakers, amp, EQ did you end up using? Did you replace the rear arm rest 6.5" speakers? How did you configure the sub? Is it 10", and did you put it in the trunk in a custom box?

Can you tell me who the salesman is, and the installer's name? I want to make sure mine isn't the first G35 the guy does, so if I can use the same guy you did, that would be great. Would you mind sharing how much you paid?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm in need of serious help ASAP. Thanks!

 

I don't see my reply so I will try again.

Go to Earmark in Addison and see David Hobbs. He did mine and did
a fantastic job. He made a template for the door speakers. We just
did the door 6.5" and the rear 6x9's. We didn't use the rear sides
but you could. Used some Boston's I had and a fosgate amp under
the seat. He built a box for a 12 JL sub I had but its a bit big.
Will probably go back and have him do a smaller box with a more
eficient 10" JL.

 

i've been looking at the soundgate LOCs... how much did they cost you?

 

About $60 for the two channel. Again we went two channel out of the
head then into an EQ with F/R fader and sub control. Soundgate
recommends the LOC4.2 or LOC4.4 for the G35

 

I went to Earmark in Plano, and had the salesman design a system. It came to $3500. Then I went over to Earmark in Addison, and did the same thing. This time the price was $2500 for basically the same thing. It was pretty rediculous if you ask me. Plano wanted $650 for labor and Addison $380 for almost exactly the same thing.

So anyway, I'm not really interested in paying full retail for all the parts, so I'm working on collecting them up myself via ebay and other means. I'll have David Hobbs do the install, like you mentioned. They even pulled your invoice to see what it was they did with your car when they wrote me up a quote.

I'm going to get a set of Boston Pro 6.5" for the front, and the Boston NX 6.5" coax for the rear. They're going to just take the 6x9's out and remove the cups underneath so it'll have nice airflow to the 10" JL W6 sub, in a custom box, in the rear. They're going to mount a JL 500/5 amp in the trunk also.

When all is said and done, it should sound pretty nice, and I figure it'll cost about $1500 or so.

 

Soo... I think I finally have the 'official' answer to what the best way Earmark thinks I should upgrade. It's interesting to note that David Hobbs saw my previous post and gave me a call to talk about some of the discreprencies in the equipment and price.

So I went in yesterday after work and talked to him. Apparently the previous installer and salesman I talked to last week (David wasn't there) didn't realize exactly how much work was involved in installing all the gear properly. David showed me pretty much exactly what he would have to do, and that was basically take apart the inside of the car. So, instead of a $380 install, it was going to be $800 plus change, for 2 or 3 days work. He also pointed out a problem with using the JL 500/5 amp, as it is quite large. They had also quoted a JL 10 W3, and I thought a 10 W6v2 would be better.

I spent the better part of an hour talking to him (the guy really knows his [censored]), and ended up with a reccomendatation that included the BA Pro's in the front, BA NX coax in the rear, remove the 6x9's, put the JL 10 W6 in a ported (I think) box in the rear, a JL 300/4 under the passenger seat, and a JL 500/1in the rear. Also, the EQ either under the seat or in the rear, and a remote bass control somewhere where I can reach it.

David says it's not a good idea to tap into the wiring in the trunk, as the Soundgate people reccomend putting the LOC as close to the HU as possible. Hence, he has to dismantle a lot of stuff, and the install cost goes way up.

David also warned me about the pitfalls of buying BA and JL stuff over the net, as both companies discourage that and will often not warrent it.

Total cost, $3600 and change.. cha-ching.

Now, I'm sure there was a certain amount of salesmanship on their part, but I understand they are in business to make a buck. I also know there is something to be said for 'you get what you pay for'. It's just that $3600 is a ton of money to replace speakers and an amp. I'd be paying pretty close to MSRP on all of the gear. Granted it should sound amazing, and granted I could step down on the parts if I wanted to go cheaper. I could also just go the route of replacing the speakers and just swap out the Bose amp for something more modest.. and possibly ebay/online parts and hope for the best..

It's a lot to consider.. man.. $3600.. but then the Bose system gives me listening fatigue and it's getting like finger nails on a chalk board... gahd.... I guess I'll just have to talk myself into it.

 

Its a very big job. He actually spent more time than he originally budgeted for but didn't
charge me for the extra. Another thing to remember is that you can reuse your equipment
in your next car. I used amps and speakers that I bought from them 5 years ago for a
Grand Prix.

You could try the soundgate off the back amp feeds but your cleanest signal will be at
the back of the radio. Thats what Soundgate recommends.

 

I was just researching LOC's on the soundgate web site, the website indicates that the LOCB is designed to be placed in pre-amp installations(specifically for BOSE) and the LOC4 is designed to work in post factory amp installations. Did Earmark feel that the converters were basically the same(ie. Soundgate just brands it different to pull a higher premium)? Also I would imagine that the EQ helps the system out a lot as well. What EQ did you go with?

Thanks,
Louis


----------------------
2004 Diamond Graphite Sedan

 

Thats the same question I had for Soundgate and below is the resonse....

>The correct part for this car is the LOC4.4 right after the head unit. This
>is a bose system but it uses a high level signal out of the radio. This is
>the best place to get a signal and will be full range. You don't want to
>use any thing else any where else or there will be problems like crossovers
>built into the factory amp that will limit the signal you get into your new
>amps and poor signal quality from other interfaces. The LOC4.4 right behind
>the factory radio is the best choice! Thanks CHET.

We used an LOC4.2 and went to an EQ with fader and sub control

 

" As good", probably not. Good enough? Maybe. The idea is to get the cleanest
signal which will be right after the head unit. Picking up the signal in the trunk may
have more noise and signal loss.

Never tried it. All I know is that the one we put behind the head unit is very
clean, one of the cleanest LOC conversions they have seen at Earmark. WORLDS
better than the one I had in my Grand Prix (factoy head unit -> PAC LOC)