MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
Hey guys. Received my monitor on Friday and had a chance to install it. Almost fits perfectly in the monitor cover. Needed to dremel out the sides a few mm. Can't tell from the outside. No nav unit yet, just used my Playstation 2 and an FM modulator for now. I purchased the screen from Caltron Industries in California(www.caltronind.com). It's a 7" LCD, part #PM-070K.
So, total $$ for parts is:
~$12+shipping monitor cover
~$278+shipping for monitor
~$40 for DC/AC Inverter for PS2
~$30 for FM modulator
~$30 for misc. parts
$0 for labor(installed myself)
~$400 is a pretty good price for a stock looking LCD!
Few pics for ya.......
122494-monitor_01.jpg
So, total $$ for parts is:
~$12+shipping monitor cover
~$278+shipping for monitor
~$40 for DC/AC Inverter for PS2
~$30 for FM modulator
~$30 for misc. parts
$0 for labor(installed myself)
~$400 is a pretty good price for a stock looking LCD!
Few pics for ya.......
122494-monitor_01.jpg
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Re: MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
Let's Go Mountaineers!!!!!!!<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by aorbeta on 10/18/03 03:57 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
122503-monitor_05.jpg
122503-monitor_05.jpg
Re: MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
If someone attempts to do this in the future... can you post DIY instructions?
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Re: MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
I'd like to see the monitor down as well. Also, where is the stock button at the top of the monitor cover? Looks weird with the hole. Where is the PS2 located, in the bigger glove box I assume? Nice custom work.
It's still a G thang!!
It's still a G thang!!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Re: MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
eykim & Rumble,
For now the monitor does not go up and down. It's fixed at it's current position until I can get the motorization working.
As for the hole, I agree that it looks kinda weird in the pictures without the button, but you can't tell when you're sitting in the cabin. I''ll have to order the switch from Carvey, should only be a couple of bucks.
For now the monitor does not go up and down. It's fixed at it's current position until I can get the motorization working.
As for the hole, I agree that it looks kinda weird in the pictures without the button, but you can't tell when you're sitting in the cabin. I''ll have to order the switch from Carvey, should only be a couple of bucks.
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 555
Likes: 1
From: Alexandria, VA
Re: MONITOR Installed- $12 LCD Mount in my G35 coupe
afr0puff,
I should have snapped pics during the project so everyone can get a better idea of what is involved in doing the install. I would be more than happy to help people out if they try this project. I'll try to put together some instructions in my free time.
I wasn't really sure of how things would work out, but can tell you that the hardest part of all this was the aluminum shell for the back of the monitor cover. It might be easier to fabricate the shell from fiberglass. The rest is pretty easy.
Whoever tries this in the future must have decent knowledge of installing electronics in cars(for routing power and ground), must also know how to solder to properly set up the 7" LCD. The LCD is a kit, containing only the raw monitor, video board, power supply and two connectors.
Usually, aftermarket mobile LCD's come with a nice plastic shell for the monitor, dials for contrast, brightness, color, etc. and all the connectors for video input and power. This one is pretty raw, allowing the user to select between different video inputs, NTSC/PAL, or RGB input. Vertical and horizontal scan selection, etc. You must wire the NTSC/PAL input to high(+5v) supplied on the board, and wire both vertical and horizontal scan selection to low(GND) for normal input.
Then all the available controls for backlight dimming, contrast, color, etc. require a potentiometer for control. I left all the dimming/contrast/brightness/color etc. controls open for now. I'm happy with the video quality , but I know I want to change the brightness because the picture is a little dark and gets washed out in direct sunlight. There is also a zoom function that I would like to try, but have just left unplugged.
You must also supply the proper RCA connector for the video, and a 12v regulator for the power input(to be on the safe side). The specs say that the monitor can handle a min of 10v and max of 13.2v so it'll probably work if you wire power directly, but voltage can go as high as 14.4 volts in cars so I wanted to be safe. I used a Texas Instruments 12v DC-DC converter that I often use in projects for work. Also placed a fuse inline to protect the monitor and electronics. Well, sh*t. Now that I've rambled on for quite a bit, it makes the install seem tougher than it is.
Also, through all of this, I've become extremely efficient at taking the dash apart. A garage would have come in handy!!
-Alan
I should have snapped pics during the project so everyone can get a better idea of what is involved in doing the install. I would be more than happy to help people out if they try this project. I'll try to put together some instructions in my free time.
I wasn't really sure of how things would work out, but can tell you that the hardest part of all this was the aluminum shell for the back of the monitor cover. It might be easier to fabricate the shell from fiberglass. The rest is pretty easy.
Whoever tries this in the future must have decent knowledge of installing electronics in cars(for routing power and ground), must also know how to solder to properly set up the 7" LCD. The LCD is a kit, containing only the raw monitor, video board, power supply and two connectors.
Usually, aftermarket mobile LCD's come with a nice plastic shell for the monitor, dials for contrast, brightness, color, etc. and all the connectors for video input and power. This one is pretty raw, allowing the user to select between different video inputs, NTSC/PAL, or RGB input. Vertical and horizontal scan selection, etc. You must wire the NTSC/PAL input to high(+5v) supplied on the board, and wire both vertical and horizontal scan selection to low(GND) for normal input.
Then all the available controls for backlight dimming, contrast, color, etc. require a potentiometer for control. I left all the dimming/contrast/brightness/color etc. controls open for now. I'm happy with the video quality , but I know I want to change the brightness because the picture is a little dark and gets washed out in direct sunlight. There is also a zoom function that I would like to try, but have just left unplugged.
You must also supply the proper RCA connector for the video, and a 12v regulator for the power input(to be on the safe side). The specs say that the monitor can handle a min of 10v and max of 13.2v so it'll probably work if you wire power directly, but voltage can go as high as 14.4 volts in cars so I wanted to be safe. I used a Texas Instruments 12v DC-DC converter that I often use in projects for work. Also placed a fuse inline to protect the monitor and electronics. Well, sh*t. Now that I've rambled on for quite a bit, it makes the install seem tougher than it is.
Also, through all of this, I've become extremely efficient at taking the dash apart. A garage would have come in handy!!
-Alan
