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alternative to dynamat

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  #1  
Old 10-14-2006, 12:19 PM
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alternative to dynamat

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...PS625&pad=true

anyone tried this or a similar roofing product as an alternative to dynamat? i dont think you can go wrong with this stuff
 
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Old 10-14-2006, 12:22 PM
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i actually used an air filter - the blue ones, and cut it to shapes for my trunk....that stopped all my rattleings.


only cost me like 3 bucks too
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by neal540
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...PS625&pad=true

anyone tried this or a similar roofing product as an alternative to dynamat? i dont think you can go wrong with this stuff

I remember reading an entire thread on this subject. The general consenus was that the Lowes product helped, but slipped off when hot and had an unpleasant tar smell.
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 03:38 PM
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I went to Lowes looking for that exact stuff... But I couldn't find it. So I went with something else instead. I found it in the insulation aisle at Lowes. It's aluminum insulation called... Well, I forogt the name but you can't miss it. It's basically bubblewrap sandwhiched in between two pieces of aluminum. I paid 27 bucks for a roll of 24 inches by 25 feet I think. Enough to do the entire car and then some. Buy some aluminum tape along with it, and as far applying it to the car, I went to Wal Mart and found some glue that sprays out of a can. This glue was suitable for use on metals and aluminum.

This stuff wont deaden sound like Dynamat, but it will stop any and all rattles that are caused from your sub or new door speakers.

Pics:

 
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:19 PM
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The stuff in Lowes will work but it's not heat resistant. You should do a google search on edead this stuff is the same as dynamat but at half the price.
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:27 PM
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I use eDeaD from Elemental Design and they're cheaper and better. Many different version too, include spray on as well
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ATL_Red_G35
I use eDeaD from Elemental Design and they're cheaper and better. Many different version too, include spray on as well
I think I might try that edead for my upcoming system
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:51 PM
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+1 on the eDead. I did my whole maxima and wow it really made a difference. Trunk, rear seats, fron doors, etc. The whole thing was about 100 square feet and cost about $80. Lemme tell ya though that it is hard, sticky, work. I spent combined about 9 hours in different chunks cleaning the surface, cutting strips and appying it. Well worth it though. Even inside the overall road noise was noticeably quieter. Good luck.
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gramdacious
+1 on the eDead. I did my whole maxima and wow it really made a difference. Trunk, rear seats, fron doors, etc. The whole thing was about 100 square feet and cost about $80. Lemme tell ya though that it is hard, sticky, work. I spent combined about 9 hours in different chunks cleaning the surface, cutting strips and appying it. Well worth it though. Even inside the overall road noise was noticeably quieter. Good luck.

niiice!!!!

I am def. going to get some. THey have some great products!
 
  #10  
Old 10-18-2006, 08:51 PM
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WTF??? Sorry Bro, but that looks like a$$ and isn't going to do much of anything to deaden panels or cut road noise except to cushion panels. There are plenty of cheaper alternatives to Dynamat (i.e. eDead, Second Skin, FatMat, Brown Bread, and RAAMMat). On a budget of $100-$150, you can do a fair job on a G. You will need to buy more if you plan to compete or if you've got a boomin' system. The goal is to add mass to body panels to reduce their resonant frequencies. Some people also use foam or liquid deadening material depending upon the application. I prefer RAAMmat.
 
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Old 10-18-2006, 09:51 PM
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Yeah, I hate to say it, but that bubble stuff isn't going to do anything. It just isn't the same concept as a asphalt-based (or synthetic) mat. I mean, what are you accomplishing by having that on the trunk? Were you just trying to stop the liner from rattling against the metal?
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:27 AM
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Yes, go back and read my post again. I said this stuff WONT deaden sound. It only stops rattles (and does a good job at it too). And who cares how it looks, no one is going to see it.
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:46 AM
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Well, there aren't many areas in the G where metal on metal contact causes rattling. Maybe in the license plate area. Most of the "rattling" is cause by panel resonance. Applying this bubble wrap cr@p is going to be a lot of work for very little benefit.
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:52 AM
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Well, there were plenty of places in my G that rattled before I had my sub. Once I put it in, things got ten times worse. I bought this "bubble wrap crap" and now all my rattles are gone. Mission accomplished.
 
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Old 10-20-2006, 10:17 AM
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you guys saying eDead is the same as dynamat are just wrong. If you want a real breakdown on the quality of sound deadening material please read the following link. It will give you the details on "closed cell" vs "open cell" materials and explain why one deadens much better than the other. eDead v1 is the same thing as roofing material from lowes, just at a higher price.

the major difference usually is whether its butyl based or asphalt based. I know the first couple versions of eDead were asphalt based despite ED's claims to the contrary. roofing material is asphalt based. dynamat and other similar competitors are butyl based which makes all the difference.

another major difference is the MASS you are adding to your panels. More mass = more sound insulation. A simple by-weight comparison will tell you what you are getting for your money spent. This is why adding additional layers increases the insulation, because you are adding more mass. The link below also provides mass per sheet in a table for an array of products.

heres the link:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

and another link directly to the conclusions page:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/
 

Last edited by saitcho; 10-20-2006 at 10:20 AM.


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