<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

And the sub in the stock location with a 2003 model Kicker CompVR. Kicker CompVR handles more watts than the regular comp. I am running about 175 watts in 4 ohm with the gain on the amp to the max.

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What size is that Kicker sub? Did you need to do any cutting to make it fit? Is that one of those free-air subs? How do you like it?

Thanks

04 G35s 6MT BS Aero Kit/Nav/Prem
Warning: Objects in Mirror Are Losing!

 

The sub is an 8inch and the 2003 KICKER COMPVR model can be used either sealed, ported, or free air. The stock location could only fit a 8 inch unless you have a custom box built and ported up through the existing opening. It doesnt sound bad but like I said you probably have to invest in dynamat which I am about to install. There is excessive amount of rattling from the rear dash.

 

What model number Comp VR are you using? I thought the VR series required a box.

 

The 2003 Kicker CompVr are now free air. <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by ydlee on 11/18/03 04:03 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

I just dynamatted my rear deck top and underneath from the trunk and behind the seat panels it sounds sooooo CLEAN!
I used about 7 sheets of dynamat. The eight sounds really good now that I used dynamat. But I suggest when using free air woofers try to get a woofer that can handle alot of power like the 2003 model Kicker CompVR. I had the JL AUDIO IB4 but never installed them due to they only handle 75 watts. The kicker hand 300 watts.

 

The 300watt power rating on the Kicker sub assumes that the woofer is installed in a properly built cabinet. The power handling decreases when used in a infinite baffle application. The JL IB sub is also an 8ohm sub, so it would receive roughly half of your amp's 4 ohm bridged rating. In the end, you are the most important judge of sound. If it sounds good to you, then it sounds awesome. Enjoy.

Take care,


amG35
2003 Silver Sedan

 

How about just replacing the sub and using the stock amp that powered the original one. IS it worth it? Would i hear an improvement?

 

wow!!! it's interesting how almost two years later, i've been wondering the same thing. i'm still trying to find a good 8" free air sub to go in my 'hole' in the rear deck.

 

I am currently in the process of design my stero. I am install 2 kicker 10" L7 solarbarics in a custom vented box( vented in the car through the back arm rest) and I am replacing the factory sub with a 8" kicker comp VR in a sealed box. I know for a fact that the 8" fits and sounds good. Will post pics soon

 

anyone know how to take out the plastic cover where the sub is supposed to be.

 

Today I replaced the two front bose speakers and 2 rear bose speakers with alpines and did a double din conversion. I also took out the bose amp and put a PDX5 in it's place. The alpines are sounding wonderful, alot cleaner and sharper than the bose, but I could use a little more bass.
So I'm thinking about connecting the 2 bose sub woofers (not connected at the moment) to the remaining channel of the PDX5.
Is it OK to connect 4 ohm speakers(the new alpines) and 2 ohm speaker (bose SW) to the PDX5 at the same time? If it's ok, how should the connection be done? The PDX fits right where the bose amp was btw.

 

Soundsplinter RL-i, nuff said, just getting it might be difficult since they may not be carrying them anymore. Also the ARC Flatline's are quite nice.