maximum trunk space saving install, no spare tire removal, 06 G coupe :)
#1
maximum trunk space saving install, no spare tire removal, 06 G coupe :)
got to do a somewhat different install on an 06 coupe:
goals:
1. Superb sound quality
and here is where it gets tricky:
2. Save as MUCH trunk space as possible
3. KEEP spare tire
4. Keep ability to fold down seat to pass items through
the last three make for a rather strange combination in the G coupe...so had to get a little creative.
lets get started:
upfront, the signal chain starts with the Pioneer 6800 6 disc dvd changer, in the stock ash tray went hte DLS remote bass control:
the front stage consists of a DLS iridium 6.3i 3 way component set. the 6.5" midbass is sealed in cups int he door, along with some edead dampening, while the midrange and tweet at flushed into the factory kicks.
now lets move on to the interesting part. If you stop and think about it, in the G coupe, if you must keep the spare, and keep the ability to fold down the back seat, and keep as much trunk space as possible, the only logical place is to put the amp to the back of the seat.
but dont think this is a ghetto bolt the amp to the back of the seat cover kind of install
first the back seat covering piece was removed, and a piece of mdf was bolted to the main rear seat support beams, andt hen the DLS reference RA50 5 channel amp was secured to the MDF. all the wires are then passed through the seat frame work to the amps. this makes for an extremely secure amp rack and no wires showing at all when done
then, a fiberglass amp cover was molded, carpted, and then secure to the stock seat back cover piece. a piece of mesh was placed int he opening to protect the amp. this ensures that very little weight is on the stock rear seat covering piece, so it woulnt tear out
here is what the back seat looks like wtih the stock piece/amp cover snapped into place, as you can see, plenty of room to pass long items through, and since the amp cover is durable carpet and fiberglass, it will withstand pretty much anyhting you throw on it
and here is what it looks like with the seat up. as you can see, because this design utlizes the space thats acutally BETWEEN the back of the seat and the opening of the trunk, it barely takes up ANY space, the whole thing juts about 1 inch into the trunk the 4080 box containing a 10w6 sits in the corner
overall, i think the goals are well acheived, and to be honest, thisis perhaps one of the best sounding Gs i have ever done...extremely clean, dynamic and very smooth...
now two behind the scnene pics, first the rear 6x9s were removed to gain better bass in the cabin
and then, the four crossovers for hte front stage are stacked in the well infront of the spare:
goals:
1. Superb sound quality
and here is where it gets tricky:
2. Save as MUCH trunk space as possible
3. KEEP spare tire
4. Keep ability to fold down seat to pass items through
the last three make for a rather strange combination in the G coupe...so had to get a little creative.
lets get started:
upfront, the signal chain starts with the Pioneer 6800 6 disc dvd changer, in the stock ash tray went hte DLS remote bass control:
the front stage consists of a DLS iridium 6.3i 3 way component set. the 6.5" midbass is sealed in cups int he door, along with some edead dampening, while the midrange and tweet at flushed into the factory kicks.
now lets move on to the interesting part. If you stop and think about it, in the G coupe, if you must keep the spare, and keep the ability to fold down the back seat, and keep as much trunk space as possible, the only logical place is to put the amp to the back of the seat.
but dont think this is a ghetto bolt the amp to the back of the seat cover kind of install
first the back seat covering piece was removed, and a piece of mdf was bolted to the main rear seat support beams, andt hen the DLS reference RA50 5 channel amp was secured to the MDF. all the wires are then passed through the seat frame work to the amps. this makes for an extremely secure amp rack and no wires showing at all when done
then, a fiberglass amp cover was molded, carpted, and then secure to the stock seat back cover piece. a piece of mesh was placed int he opening to protect the amp. this ensures that very little weight is on the stock rear seat covering piece, so it woulnt tear out
here is what the back seat looks like wtih the stock piece/amp cover snapped into place, as you can see, plenty of room to pass long items through, and since the amp cover is durable carpet and fiberglass, it will withstand pretty much anyhting you throw on it
and here is what it looks like with the seat up. as you can see, because this design utlizes the space thats acutally BETWEEN the back of the seat and the opening of the trunk, it barely takes up ANY space, the whole thing juts about 1 inch into the trunk the 4080 box containing a 10w6 sits in the corner
overall, i think the goals are well acheived, and to be honest, thisis perhaps one of the best sounding Gs i have ever done...extremely clean, dynamic and very smooth...
now two behind the scnene pics, first the rear 6x9s were removed to gain better bass in the cabin
and then, the four crossovers for hte front stage are stacked in the well infront of the spare:
#3
well it can breath acutally, the front of it is mesh...plenty of heat excahnge going on.
second, DLS reference and ultimate amps NEVER overheats, i mean like never, i have done so many of them, many of them completely covered up, for example in my own car, and even after almost an hour of blasting, they barely get that warm
second, DLS reference and ultimate amps NEVER overheats, i mean like never, i have done so many of them, many of them completely covered up, for example in my own car, and even after almost an hour of blasting, they barely get that warm
#5
#8
Originally Posted by digital1986
The mesh isnt near the fans of the amp,....... an there is no way when your car is heated up to 100 degrees from the weather then you start your system up the amp is going to stay just fine lol
wanna bet some cash on it?
i give full volume demos in my car about 3 times a day and listen to loud music all the time, it has been in a lot of heat. and my amp rack is COMPLETELY sealed off from the outside air, its below the cover, and there is a very thick rubber mat on top of it all. meaning zero air circulation, what so ever. i make it a point after letting a customer listen to my car at very loud volumes for about 30 mins to go and touch the amp, and its barely warm. this is even in teh 110 degree heat last summer
the notion that amps cannot be mounted upside down, and always needs to be really open to work is one based on old technology and in seomse case, insufficient heatsink design and internal design...
with good components, a very efficient heat sink design, very minimal ventilation is needed for the amp to remain stable...
but then again, no one believes me when i say such things anyway...but i have yet to have a single customer with dls reference and ultimate amps overheat on me, and some of them are in completely cover installs such as:
#9
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
wanna bet some cash on it?
i give full volume demos in my car about 3 times a day and listen to loud music all the time, it has been in a lot of heat. and my amp rack is COMPLETELY sealed off from the outside air, its below the cover, and there is a very thick rubber mat on top of it all. meaning zero air circulation, what so ever. i make it a point after letting a customer listen to my car at very loud volumes for about 30 mins to go and touch the amp, and its barely warm. this is even in teh 110 degree heat last summer
the notion that amps cannot be mounted upside down, and always needs to be really open to work is one based on old technology and in seomse case, insufficient heatsink design and internal design...
with good components, a very efficient heat sink design, very minimal ventilation is needed for the amp to remain stable...
but then again, no one believes me when i say such things anyway...but i have yet to have a single customer with dls reference and ultimate amps overheat on me, and some of them are in completely cover installs such as:
i give full volume demos in my car about 3 times a day and listen to loud music all the time, it has been in a lot of heat. and my amp rack is COMPLETELY sealed off from the outside air, its below the cover, and there is a very thick rubber mat on top of it all. meaning zero air circulation, what so ever. i make it a point after letting a customer listen to my car at very loud volumes for about 30 mins to go and touch the amp, and its barely warm. this is even in teh 110 degree heat last summer
the notion that amps cannot be mounted upside down, and always needs to be really open to work is one based on old technology and in seomse case, insufficient heatsink design and internal design...
with good components, a very efficient heat sink design, very minimal ventilation is needed for the amp to remain stable...
but then again, no one believes me when i say such things anyway...but i have yet to have a single customer with dls reference and ultimate amps overheat on me, and some of them are in completely cover installs such as:
psshhh whatever IT GETS HOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jk
I believe you
#10
I think i can officially say, "I'm DONE!!!" No more upgrades needed.
Got my car back from B a few hrs ago, had to chance to crank up the system on the way home.
The up6 which i had before were great, these iridiums are awwwwsome!
Initial impressions are the highs are so much more crisp and mid range/bass is much more powerful. I'll have to listen to the system a little more this wkend to give a better detailed review.
In terms of install quality, pictures speak for themselves.
The most challenging part of this install was to try and meet the all the goals. My main priority was keeping the spare tire. and then saving trunk space. To maintain the pass through opening would be a bonus. This is how Bing and my conversation went...
b: so u really wanna keep your spare huh? i dont think its possible to mount this 2' long amp w/ wiring near the back of the trunk, it will have to come out 6"-8" or so, gonna look ugly and you will not be able to fit a full sized luggage in the trunk anymore. You will be digging your own grave.
me: hmmm just figure something out
b: ok i'm telling you, you wont have much trunk space.
me: i really want to keep my spare though, your other installs look nice with the raised floor and all, but i raelly really value my spare tire.
b: Aight just as long as you know all the pros and cons.
me: Well just see what you can do and save as much space as possible.
HAHA
Just cuz i've seen a lot of his work before, i pretty much knew he would ultimately figure something out. I was pretty sure he wouldnt fabricate something that he didnt think was up to his standards and his reputation here on the forum.
Oh yeah my firend came along w/ me to pick up my car, she sat in the back as i got a quick demo. She later asked me how many speakers were in the back? i was like speakers? eveyrhting was in the front. Shes like wow, sounded like as if you had some surround sound thing going on in there.
Got my car back from B a few hrs ago, had to chance to crank up the system on the way home.
The up6 which i had before were great, these iridiums are awwwwsome!
Initial impressions are the highs are so much more crisp and mid range/bass is much more powerful. I'll have to listen to the system a little more this wkend to give a better detailed review.
In terms of install quality, pictures speak for themselves.
The most challenging part of this install was to try and meet the all the goals. My main priority was keeping the spare tire. and then saving trunk space. To maintain the pass through opening would be a bonus. This is how Bing and my conversation went...
b: so u really wanna keep your spare huh? i dont think its possible to mount this 2' long amp w/ wiring near the back of the trunk, it will have to come out 6"-8" or so, gonna look ugly and you will not be able to fit a full sized luggage in the trunk anymore. You will be digging your own grave.
me: hmmm just figure something out
b: ok i'm telling you, you wont have much trunk space.
me: i really want to keep my spare though, your other installs look nice with the raised floor and all, but i raelly really value my spare tire.
b: Aight just as long as you know all the pros and cons.
me: Well just see what you can do and save as much space as possible.
HAHA
Just cuz i've seen a lot of his work before, i pretty much knew he would ultimately figure something out. I was pretty sure he wouldnt fabricate something that he didnt think was up to his standards and his reputation here on the forum.
Oh yeah my firend came along w/ me to pick up my car, she sat in the back as i got a quick demo. She later asked me how many speakers were in the back? i was like speakers? eveyrhting was in the front. Shes like wow, sounded like as if you had some surround sound thing going on in there.
Last edited by dukieman23; 02-08-2007 at 03:56 AM.
#11
#13
dukie, how does 395 watts of rated DLS power on the subwoofer sound compared to 500 watts of rated JL power? i honestly cna hear a difference, how about you? hehe
honestly, i am not one of those pop things out of hte mold type of poeple, most of my installs, the part that you guys see in the pic if just one very small part of the equation, meaning, say i build an amp rack cover for people like you see in this pic, thats all swell but if you dont do the amp intall below it 100 percent like i just did, down to the very inch of where the amp is mounted, its not going to work, as when you try to close the back seat, its gonna hit the top or bottom...
i do offer to build kick panels, door cups etc for G and Z guys though
honestly, i am not one of those pop things out of hte mold type of poeple, most of my installs, the part that you guys see in the pic if just one very small part of the equation, meaning, say i build an amp rack cover for people like you see in this pic, thats all swell but if you dont do the amp intall below it 100 percent like i just did, down to the very inch of where the amp is mounted, its not going to work, as when you try to close the back seat, its gonna hit the top or bottom...
i do offer to build kick panels, door cups etc for G and Z guys though
#14
After listening to it some more i think the diff b/w the JL w/ the 500 watts compared to the 365 watts is that the JL is more in your face. Like if you want in your face thumps i'd go w/ the JL. The 5th channel on this ra50 amp is by no means weak though. I was afraid it would be too weak for the 10w6 i had in the back but it still makes it hit pretty well. The bass is a little bit more controlled IMO, but then again i have the luxury of playing w/ the bass ****.
Anyways pm me if your intersted in all my old stuff which Bing installed and uninstalled. Custom kicks, up6, ra40, 500/1. All in good working condition.
Anyways pm me if your intersted in all my old stuff which Bing installed and uninstalled. Custom kicks, up6, ra40, 500/1. All in good working condition.
#15
Originally Posted by dukieman23
After listening to it some more i think the diff b/w the JL w/ the 500 watts compared to the 365 watts is that the JL is more in your face. Like if you want in your face thumps i'd go w/ the JL. The 5th channel on this ra50 amp is by no means weak though. I was afraid it would be too weak for the 10w6 i had in the back but it still makes it hit pretty well. The bass is a little bit more controlled IMO, but then again i have the luxury of playing w/ the bass ****.
Anyways pm me if your intersted in all my old stuff which Bing installed and uninstalled. Custom kicks, up6, ra40, 500/1. All in good working condition.
Anyways pm me if your intersted in all my old stuff which Bing installed and uninstalled. Custom kicks, up6, ra40, 500/1. All in good working condition.
Buy his sh*ttt, it's good stuff.