First post--
Glad to say that as of a few days ago, I am the proud new owner of a G35 coupe. Black on black with 20% tint (as of yesterday), and I must say it is an all around fantastic car!

Being a car audio geek for many years now, my first thought was that I would have to rip out the entire audio system and start from scratch, but honestly I have been more than impressed with the Bose system. In my previous car (99 cougar), I had a 3-way setup (9" Morel midbasses, 3" morel mids, vifa silk tweets) running on a JL 300/2 and a JL 300/4 respectively, with a Pioneer DEH-P9400 headunit for its 13 band EQ, 3-way passive XO, mp3 playback and time alignment. I must say there are more similarities than differences between the two!

All that crap aside, my real question was regarding a possible sub addition. I have a JL 12w6v2 collecting dust and a 500/1 sitting in my closet. Trunk space is at a premium in this vehicle and I really don't think the 12 is where it's at. From what I've read on this forum so far, the JL stealthbox is an ok solution but is somewhat lackluster for the price. I am very familiar with the JL line (and am a fan) but a 10w1 in a small sealed box doesn't seem like it will help out this system where it needs it, which I would say is 45-50 hz and below.

On the other hand, people speak very well of the "4080" enclosures, which are similarly built for a 10" sub, but seem to have a little more volume (says between .7 and .9 cubes, we'll call it .8)

Does anyone here have a 10w6v2 or 10w7 (with about 500w) in one of these boxes? The 10w7 recommends 1.25 cubes sealed, so I imagine that it would probaby demand more airspace than is available in this case. In the meantime, I'll keep searching the board, I'm pretty pumped about it

Cheers!

 

I have a 4080 box with a 10W6v2 and the 500x1 JL amp with it....remote bass **** up front.... works great!

I used a audiocontrol line converter.....

 

I don't think the 10w7 will fit. Most of us went with a 10w6.

 

SPEAKING of W6...mine ripped...literally...the whole speaker fell apart.... and surprise surprise....just out of warranty as well....

 

That was my other big stumbling block... I'm not a big fan of line-level converters, but I imagine you probably had to splice a signal off the rear speakers...
What audiocontrol unit did you use... Epicenter I'm guessing? AC has always been good stuff.


Looks like the w6 is the way to go

 

Actually I don't remember which audiocontrol i went with...it was the one that "upped" the voltage for the RCA's to X amount of Volts...front/rear/sub converts...nice little unit...JL audio has one as well (at my time of install it was not out on the market yet)...look into it if you want to keep the whole system JL audio...

 

The 10w7 won't fit in the 4080 box. It's too dee. The 10w6 will only fit in certain positions because the terminals hit the box.

Don't tap into the audio signal after the Bose amp processes it because the bose amp adds its own EQ to the music. There are a couple of DYI threads describing where and how to tap into the audio signal before it enters the Bose amp. You can simply tap into the signal, which is about 2 volts, and splice RCA cables onto the wires and plug it right into your amp, if the amp accepts balanced inputs, which JL's do.

 

+3 on the W7 not fitting.

Some are happy with the bose and others hate it. I have changed out a few for people and IMO it sounds 10X better with a good set of Focals and a new amp.

 

No go on the W7, its too deep and its a air space hog. The W6v2 will fit and will sound great.

The Polk Audio SR104 signature series sub is my favorite of all. It plays super low, handles a ton of power and costs less than W6V2. PM me for pricing if you are interested.


Thanks, forty eighty
www.4080enclosures.com