superbrightleds.com

They really aren't angle holders. I just have them CA glued in at an angle.

http://superbrightleds.com/specs/LB3.htm

 

good job MiloX ! keep up the good work bro.

 

THE DANES HAVE LANDED

Picked up the drivers today. Will start working on the prep work to get them installed tomorrow. Until then... some pics:





And on to the obligatory comparo pics:






Yay!

 

Hotttttttttttt

 

Hurry up and put them in the car. I want to see it.

 

I don't know about yall... But I can't think of a better way to spend father's day than working on the car.

I have some questions about my install bay so I figured i would take a pic of it:


Look! The neighbors got new carpet!

Ok... So onto today's progress.

I decided that I would install the domes and the tweets into the kickpanel, a la Bing. I was happy with the stage height of the old system with the LPGs in the kicks so I figured why not. However, there was a big problem on the driver's side.

The BCM:


It sits directly behind the MR location. Should have taken a pic of it in-situ. Forgot. Sorry. Ok... Just move it under the dash or on the firewall, right? Yeah. There was another problem.

This:


It's one of the bundles that plug into the BCM. Six inches is entirely too short. So some wire and electrical tape later we now have a usable bundle. Yeah the pic sux. Sorry.


Now with new extended bundle the BCM can go under the dash.

It is secured with more zip ties than I care to mention.

And here's what the kick area looks like now:

All kinds of room.

Onto the fab work.

Here is a kickpanel with a hole and an LPG25NFA in it.


Removed the tweeter and sanded down all of the ABS bracing:


Created a new back plate thingy and cut the opening for the MR.


Test fitted, and cut the new bigger hole for the tweeter.


And boom!

Speakers popped in and KP test fitted:




A couple of notes. The panels are not done. I need to clean them and such.

Also

The dead pedal was just laid up there for the pics. When installed properly it doesn't touch the driver.

The panels are now sitting on my "bench"... err... Dining Room ready to be wired up.

 

is the left panel cracked?

 

Nope. That's the fuse panel door.

 

Good for you that you have a 6mt or you may have had to relocate the 5mt tranny control module in the left kick panel.

Keep the pics of the progress coming.

 

Are you going to keep the board behind the kickpanel or was it to help brace the panel when you cut it?

Are you going to deaden the kickpanel?
Are you going to deaden the metal behind it?

Thanks!

 

^^^ That is a perfect segue.

Another day... another update.

Monday... Back to the grind. Only have a few hours after work to get things done. So I set my mind to finishing up the kicks. After this is all said and done, I may spray them with some SEM... Just to freshen them up a bit. The driver's side has taken a beating.

Anyhow... Like I mentioned in my last update... the kicks are out of the car and sitting on my dining room table.

Since I was going to be dealing with mat I decided to clear some space on our kitchen island and work there. Butyl cleans much easier off of formica!

Pop out the drivers, lay down some mat and bingo... you have a reflective kickpanel... with little bits of black goo sprinkled about for good measure:


I forgot to take a pic of the driver side kick at this stage... sorry. But, I did a pretty good job de-goobitating the kick. Goo Gone is your friend when it comes to cleaning up mat goo.

Spray Gel FTW!!!

Get your can of 1081 Adhesive:

This stuff SMOKES 3M 90 and has worked just as well as Dap red can for me.

Spray down some glue and lay some ensolite:

Passenger Side


Driver Side

And pop in the drivers:


Snug as a bug.

A home fit for a king... or at least some pretty fancy-pants speakers.

And clean up the panels a bit....and here's what you get:



Those screws are hidden by the dead pedal. It's all good.

I have really got to say that I am really pleased with how these came out. Let's just hope they sound as good as they look! Time to get these ready for break-in!!!

Wiring (everybody's favorite thing to do) in our next episode... I think.

Since these are both chambered drivers I don't plan on deadening the area behind the kick. I am going to lay some foam on the ECU to protect it from the back of the MR. It just barely kisses it when it is installed.

 

Another great update.

Your attention to detail is second-to-none. I was an installer for a few years while in school and we did some big $$,$$$ jobs, some of which took us 4-6 months at a time. It is so easy to cut corners and you have not done that anywhere. Keep up the great work.

 

Tuesday, June 19th 2007. T-minus 17 days to the North Georgia Nationals. Lots of work yet to do!

I got home around 6 today and went back at it. Like i promised yesterday... tonight was spent wiring.

Documenting this install has been a lot of fun for me. I love the questions I get whether they are posted in public, or in a PM. Undoubtedly, the most common question I have fielded during this process is "So how exactly did you make your wiring look like that?".

So I decided that when the next opportunity arose to apply solder to copper I would document it for everyone. Hopefully the following will help. It is REALLY easy to do. Just takes a little extra time.

First of all you will need the following-

Clockwise from bottom left:

• Shears
• Terminal connectors (If appropriate)
• Soldering Iron
• Solder (Do yourself a favor and get thin solder... much easier to work with)
• Various sizes and colors of heat shrink
• Newcastle (Optional)
• Hot knife
• Techflex
• Carpet knife
• Strippers and crimpers as appropriate
• Wire (I use Tsunami 12 GA from our friends at Elemental Designs)
• Labels

An enthusiastic helper is optional... but makes life so much more fun:


Step 1.

Strip the wire.

Step 2.


Tin the leads as appropriate for your install. These ends are going into terminal blocks. No connectors = Tinned wire!

Step 3.

Cut heatshrink to length.

Step 4.

Apply heat.

Step 5.

Do the other end of the wire. Here you can see that I have soldered the blue wire, and have prepped the silver one.

Step 6.

Apply shrink to the other end.

Step 7.

Using the hot knife, cut the techflex to length. I like to leave it about a half inch short on both ends.

Step 8.

Tack the flex in place using a short piece of shrink, or electrical tape.

Step 9.

Cut two longer pieces of shrink and apply to the cable. I like to leave it about a half inch or 3/4 inch long in order to cover the point where the inner conductors meet the outer sheathing. This allows for the cable to be bent, and still cover the joint.

Step 10.

Apply label.

Step 11.

Cut the clear shrink to length and apply. I use the clear to protect the labels. If you aren't labeling the cables then you really don't need it. Unless you like the look.

And that, my friends, is that.


And here's what they look like attached to the drivers.




Simple, eh?

 

very nice job your works is excellent I try to preform the same quality or detail in wiring nothing makes a car crappier than wires just shove all over the place

 

I think I was using too much of the Newcastle