Hey everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose a dead battery in a 2006 G35 Coupe which I believe is due to parasitic draw being a little high. I suppose a defective battery is possible, but I really doubt this is the case. In the past, I've considered 25-50mA to be about right. This particular case, I'm seeing about a 100mA draw. On top of that, I've done a remote start/security system which raises the total draw to around 150mA.

Needless to say, these numbers seem a little high to me, but then again I've never had to diagnose this kind of problem on a vehicle this new (and with as many factory gadgets) Does anyone know what an unmodded G35 Coupe should pull? I need a reference point to see if the draw is indeed too high.

Thanks in advance,

-Mike

 

did you have any problems before you installed the remote start sys? because it sounds like to me that that is your problem

 

I didn't have any problems before the remote start system, *however* I'm still getting the 100mA draw with the system completely unplugged. The extra equipment only raises the number to 150mA. Also, the system has been in for at least a month now with no issues.

The only recent thing that's happened to the car is the sunroof was left open for a little while during a light rain. The carpet was immediately removed and the car dried out, so I can't say water is the culprit either. I HAVE noticed a strange sound coming from the passenger side footwell area when the ignition is turned on that kinda sounds like an audible representation of a capacitor charging up. (As in it starts kinda loud and dies off gradually until it's completely gone after a few seconds) It happens fast enough that I can't pinpoint the source before it goes away. It's definately NOT the fuel pump though.

 

about the best thing for you to do is to take it to the dealer and tell them that you installed an after market alarm sys and that you had a parasitic draw that was really high. also let them know that you have taken it all out. they should be able to find the problem. most likely it is going to be a factory component that is causing the problem in the first place. then you get the car back you can put the alarm back in and if you are still having the same problem. you will need to let everything power down and to get ride of all of the residual power. make sure that the key is out and the doors a shut. then open the doors and let everything else power down. they hook your tester up and start pulling fuses till you find the circuit that is drawing the most power and that should tell you where the problem is with your alarm sys

 

UPDATE:

I found the problem. I have a programmable relay assembly to control miscellaneous things from the convenience system, and one of the modules was bad. All fixed! Thanks for your insight.

 

how did you diagnose this? what is your parasitic draw now. mine's at about 160ma as wel and i'd like to know what you did.

pretty sure its my radio and i just need to unplug it but still looking for other avenues.

thanks!

 

at my shop we use 35 M.a. is the basic draw amount .....
Anything over that will cause dead batteries over time...

Glad you found the problem....