Viper 5900 / Clifford Matrix 50.5X
#16
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also to reiterate, youll have a factory siren from viper, piezo in cabin, back up batt/siren....3 total, and horn honk if you want it lol.
im pretty sure you would need the 530t not the 529t, and a relay or 2.(for auto up and down) but contact kpierson on this site and he may have a cheaper solution. cost on the 530t was around 62 for me, and retail was 80+
im pretty sure you would need the 530t not the 529t, and a relay or 2.(for auto up and down) but contact kpierson on this site and he may have a cheaper solution. cost on the 530t was around 62 for me, and retail was 80+
#17
thank you so much guys, i appreciate the info. they didnt have the 515r in any store in san antonio (there's 5 locations www.customsounds.com). i ended up getting the glass break sensor, back up battery, 1 pieza siren in the cabin. i didnt get the tilt sensor because i figured im probably not gonna get aftermarket wheels, my wheels have locks, and if they get stolen my insurance will cover it anyways.
#19
yah The install job was really good too. i talked to the installer about hiding the siren in the engine compartment so it couldn't be accessed easily to cut its wires. he took the front grill off and tucked it into a corner there, it took me forever to find and the wires are pretty tough to find. the shop also only solders and heat shrink wraps every connection. on my older car, the ghetto shop used T clips to tap into the wires. 5 years later the lights stopped flashing. im happy so far with this installation job.
the only prob is that the arm/disarm chirps are not at their loudest, and from what i am reading, a wire needs to be cut on the actual siren. sigh.
the only prob is that the arm/disarm chirps are not at their loudest, and from what i am reading, a wire needs to be cut on the actual siren. sigh.
#21
well i was "sighing" because he took the grill off and i didnt want to mess with that. but that grill is retained by 4 plastic snap on screw things, so it was an easy process, i cut the wire and am happy
before, i couldnt hear the chirps in the parking lot while hunting for my car, i think thats the best feature of the chirps.
the only other problem: while talking to the installer i tried disabling the factory horn honking with the infiniti remote, i wasnt able to do it, and told the installer what i was trying to do. so, he asked me "you dont want the horn" and i said "no". i thought he was talking only about arming/disarming, but when the siren goes off, there is no horn!
looking through the installation manual, there is no "setting" to turn the horn on or off. so, i think he purposely did not connect the wire. before i go to the shop to complain, i need to figure out whether or not i want the horn with the alarm. what do you guys think? i live in an apartment complex and am trying to balance security with nuisance.
also, in the installation manual if you see page 26 discussing all the options, Menu 3-1 and 3-2 discuss the horn settings. 3-2 option 1 is "Horn Function (full alarm only) and the other available option to toggle between is "Siren function -- chirp length (20mS, 30mS, 40mS, 50mS). any idea what these mS times are referring to?
i have heard alarms go off where the honking of the horn is completely random, and some where it is a constant pulsing of the horn. i think the random one sounds cool. anyways, are ya'lls horns active with the full trigger of the alarm? there *is* a way with the viper to not chirp the horn at arm/disarm, but only engage the horn at full trigger of the alarm, right? thanks again for the help.
before, i couldnt hear the chirps in the parking lot while hunting for my car, i think thats the best feature of the chirps.
the only other problem: while talking to the installer i tried disabling the factory horn honking with the infiniti remote, i wasnt able to do it, and told the installer what i was trying to do. so, he asked me "you dont want the horn" and i said "no". i thought he was talking only about arming/disarming, but when the siren goes off, there is no horn!
looking through the installation manual, there is no "setting" to turn the horn on or off. so, i think he purposely did not connect the wire. before i go to the shop to complain, i need to figure out whether or not i want the horn with the alarm. what do you guys think? i live in an apartment complex and am trying to balance security with nuisance.
also, in the installation manual if you see page 26 discussing all the options, Menu 3-1 and 3-2 discuss the horn settings. 3-2 option 1 is "Horn Function (full alarm only) and the other available option to toggle between is "Siren function -- chirp length (20mS, 30mS, 40mS, 50mS). any idea what these mS times are referring to?
i have heard alarms go off where the honking of the horn is completely random, and some where it is a constant pulsing of the horn. i think the random one sounds cool. anyways, are ya'lls horns active with the full trigger of the alarm? there *is* a way with the viper to not chirp the horn at arm/disarm, but only engage the horn at full trigger of the alarm, right? thanks again for the help.
#24
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Garden Grove, CA
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OK, I'm the OP of this thread and I have another question as well. I'm about to purchase the Clifford Matrix through a wholesaler from a friends contact. I know I'll need the key bypass module but I'll end up losing a key. Is there a programmable module so I don't lose the key? I read on a reply that there is but it wasn't sufficient enough for me to find it through a search. If I am to go with losing a key, is there a way I can get a backup key? I'd like to have one at home JUST IN CASE. *hit happens you know?
#25
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Found this on the net, if anyone is in the Houston area...
http://houston.craigslist.org/for/538079503.html
200 bux!
http://houston.craigslist.org/for/538079503.html
200 bux!
#26
K@osx71: what i know is that if i were to get starter kill, then i wouldve had to pay like $50 extra for some "interface module." that being said i don't THINK it needs a key. however, the place i went to absolutely refused for liability purposes to place starter kill in a 6mt. so, perhaps with the clutch bypass deal, if you need one, you may need the key. i'm not really sure. i'm sorry if this response wasn't any help
#27
i'm having an annoying problem with my newly installed alarm and wanted to ask here before i take it to the shop on thursday to get the horn wire connected. what happens is that right after i drive it around and park it and arm it, it chirps once, pauses 3 seconds, and chirps once more. this means the system has detected an active zone and is bypassing it, or something.
however, 30 minutes later without getting in the car, if i dis arm it, and re-arm it, its detection of the active zone is gone, and the system beeps once and only once. what does this mean? is the alarm detecting some voltage? i dont get it, does it happen to ya'll's g's?
however, 30 minutes later without getting in the car, if i dis arm it, and re-arm it, its detection of the active zone is gone, and the system beeps once and only once. what does this mean? is the alarm detecting some voltage? i dont get it, does it happen to ya'll's g's?
#28
You can't use the 529t or 530t on these cars, unless DEI has updated them.
They contain a 'one touch' feature that isn't programmable - it is always on. This causes the windows to go all the way down every time you open the doors (because the windows drop that little bit, and the module takes over and lowers them all the way).
You guys are making a killing off of that trunk pin - one extra wire at the BCM. The same goes for trunk pop. And charging to diode isolate?? I've never seen that before. At my old shop a Viper alarm install like this, with remote start and a key based bypass would be right around $500 out the door. I think its funny you guys are mentioning charging money for 'standard' alarm stuff yet neither of you mentioned the only actual hard part of installing an alarm on a G35 - getting the wires inside the door. If you are going to charge extra, that is what you should be charging extra for!
The KPtechnologies module will not work with most DEI alarms. It works off of door lock pulses and you can't send consecutive door lock pulses with most DEI stuff (you can't lock the doors remotely if the system is armed, which is actully kind of dumb). However, you can control the windows (both up and down) with exteneded (-) triggers on the lock and unlock wires. So, with an aftermarket alarm and a few extra channels (or one extral channel and a relay) you can control the windows completely.
They contain a 'one touch' feature that isn't programmable - it is always on. This causes the windows to go all the way down every time you open the doors (because the windows drop that little bit, and the module takes over and lowers them all the way).
You guys are making a killing off of that trunk pin - one extra wire at the BCM. The same goes for trunk pop. And charging to diode isolate?? I've never seen that before. At my old shop a Viper alarm install like this, with remote start and a key based bypass would be right around $500 out the door. I think its funny you guys are mentioning charging money for 'standard' alarm stuff yet neither of you mentioned the only actual hard part of installing an alarm on a G35 - getting the wires inside the door. If you are going to charge extra, that is what you should be charging extra for!
The KPtechnologies module will not work with most DEI alarms. It works off of door lock pulses and you can't send consecutive door lock pulses with most DEI stuff (you can't lock the doors remotely if the system is armed, which is actully kind of dumb). However, you can control the windows (both up and down) with exteneded (-) triggers on the lock and unlock wires. So, with an aftermarket alarm and a few extra channels (or one extral channel and a relay) you can control the windows completely.
#29
So I took my car back to the shop to get the horn issue fixed, along with the bypass beep issue (see my post above). the installer told me that hooked up the piezzo siren which is mounted in the cabin to the horn wire. he said he did this because if he hooked it up with the main siren, then every time i arm the alarm, the glass break sensor will hear the cabin chirps and the alarm would then do the bypass chirp when arming (chirp 3seconds later, chirp).
i told him that right now, mine is doing the bypass chirp anyways. he said he didnt know why it was doing that but did confirm that it was the glass break sensor doing it. he said he will call directed tech support on monday when they are open and give me a call back after he figures out how to do it.
soo.. my question to you guys is, how is your piezzo hooked up? is it tapped into the main siren or to the horn or to something else? do you get bypass beeps with glass break sensor+piezzo in cabin?
i told him that right now, mine is doing the bypass chirp anyways. he said he didnt know why it was doing that but did confirm that it was the glass break sensor doing it. he said he will call directed tech support on monday when they are open and give me a call back after he figures out how to do it.
soo.. my question to you guys is, how is your piezzo hooked up? is it tapped into the main siren or to the horn or to something else? do you get bypass beeps with glass break sensor+piezzo in cabin?
#30
If he really thinks it's the piezo that is causing the glass break sensor to make the alarm chirp I would remove the piezo. In reality, what is it going to do for you anyway?
I would remove it and add a battery back up siren.
I've been in cars with the peizos and they arn't that bad - if you are a thieve focused on disabling a car the peizos arn't going to stop you. If anything, they will cause some hearing loss at which point you will sued for injuring the bad guy!
From a security standpoint the back up battery siren is a much better option. You figure if someone is going to break in to a car that they know has an aftermarket alarm the first thing they are going to is pop the hood and cut the battery cable, rending your piezos useless. The backup battery siren will, at least, continue to make noise possibly scaring off the thieve or drawing attention to the car.
I would remove it and add a battery back up siren.
I've been in cars with the peizos and they arn't that bad - if you are a thieve focused on disabling a car the peizos arn't going to stop you. If anything, they will cause some hearing loss at which point you will sued for injuring the bad guy!
From a security standpoint the back up battery siren is a much better option. You figure if someone is going to break in to a car that they know has an aftermarket alarm the first thing they are going to is pop the hood and cut the battery cable, rending your piezos useless. The backup battery siren will, at least, continue to make noise possibly scaring off the thieve or drawing attention to the car.