does it matter if i switch the - and + connection going into my sub? will it damage the speaker, i heard it has to do with polarity, i heard this is useful if you turn the sub box around 180 degrees then you will need to switch the + and - of the speaker wire so the sub wont phase out? please help... does red usually mean + or -? and black?

i wanna make sure the shop hooked up my wires correctly and to be sure my sub is out of phase with my inside speakers, that way i will be able to differentiate between the bass and inside speakers more... please help...

 

Phase is always *relative* to something else. Having the left front out-of-phase with the right front would be a big deal (as the left and right speakers would cancel each other out, a bit.)
Having the sub out-of-phase with the fronts wouldn't make much of a difference as, hopefully, the fronts and the sub would be playing different frequencies. (High-passing the fronts around 60-80 Hz is common (for 6.5" speakers anyway) with the sub playing 60-80 Hz and down.)
You won't damage a speaker by switching the + and -.
I don't know, color-wise, what the common scheme is.
(And you'd prefer that the sub is wired *in-phase* with the front speakers.)

 

To check for polarity I take a AA battery and connect each end to a different wire going to the speaker. If the speaker pushed outward then your + is the same as the + on the AA. Otherwise its backwards. BTW just tap it dont leave it.

"I'm not saying you're full of BS, per se" - Zimbo



-JustICE

 

I've always used a 9 volt to 'pop' speakers. Red is typically positive and black is typically negative. As stated above if the subs are out of phase with your front speakers you won't be able to tell a difference. If you have multiple subs and they are out of phase from each other you will have almost no bass coming from them.



Kevin
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04 Diamond Graphite Coupe - FULLY loaded
Windows up with OEM Remote
RE Short Shifter // Z Tube

 

I actually have my passenger side speakers out of phase on purpose. It can help imaging characteristics if used appropriately...

Also, the point of a subwoofer is to fill in the low end without being obtrousive. In an ideal system, you would not want to be able to differentiate between the sub and instide speakers. It should all blend fairly seemlessly.

 

You have your front speakers out of phase with each other?

What does "if used appropriately. . ." mean? I can't imagine an instance where you'd want your speakers cancelling each other out.

 

What applies outside in a more controlled listening enviroment or free field area, does not apply once you put speakers in a vehicle.

Due to the close proximity of reflective and absorbative surfaces, speaker phase can be altered by varying degrees.

In a typical 2way front stage. assuming the pathlengths are maximized as much as possible, and time has been spent adjusting levels and Xo points etc.. inverting the phase of one mid can typically create a much more solid and stable center image.

But this typically comes at the expense of a decrease in midbass. You will get some degree of cancellation at the crossover point which will cause a decrease in midbass response.

This is the major advantage a 3way front stage with a dedicated midbass has over a 2way set. Having a dedicated midbass driver will allow you to invert phase in the midange to obtain a stable and focused center image, without sacraficing midbass impact.

Hope that clears it up a bit.

 

Hmmm. I've never heard that inverting the phase of one driver is a good thing before. It smells fishy.
I can understand using a processor/amp or something to adjust the phase of a speaker, or, more likely to tune one side of the car's speakers, but just flipping the positive and negative sounds wrong.
Whatever works in your car, I suppose.
"Everyone" seems to agree that you should keep your tweet and midrange as close as possible, in order to preserve the soundstage. I noticed that g35audioman has separated those in his car.
I agree that having the drivers on axis with the listener is best, but now you have the tweets aimed at the ears, and the mids shooting straight, and out of phase to boot. It seems like you're monkeying with The Formula.

 

Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a "formula" in car audio. If there was, then everyone who followed that formula would win competitions. That is simply not the case.

As far as changing the polarity, it is a known way to achieve a better soundstage at times. It depends on many factors, but in a car that is not using any time alignment, such as mine, then it can be very benefecial in correcting that issue.

As far as having the tweeters mounted on axis and the mids not, there is simply no rule stating that one way is clearly better than the other. A system is only as good as its tuning. If having both tweeters and mids mounted on axis was part of the "formula" then why not throw a pair of coaxials in kicks and call it the perfect imaging setup? Sometimes, "monkeying with the formula" can create a formula that is even better for a given application.

Bottom line, don't take specifications and general car audio advice to heart. There are many ways to achieve a great system with excellent imaging that simply defy the norm.

Remember to always consider the vehicle as well. What works well in one car, will not necessarily work as well in another car.

Hope this clears things up a bit. If you guys have any other questions, let me know. I'll be happy to clarify.