Hey What do ya know ...I musta doen something write...This Thread made it to the G35Driver FAQ and DIY section.....

MAN THAT IS MY FAVORITE PART OF THIS SITE....

I Want to THANKS to all the people who took their time to take step by step detailed pics and edit them and post here ...Just to help the nexy G owner out from a Search or Headache....BIG THANKS TO ALL!!!!!!

My Next DIY will be how to remove the back seats, side panels, rear deck, and 6x9's.....

Again....BEATIFUL section the DIY......!!!!!!!

MUCH RESPECT and LOVE TO THE ADMINS AND MODS!!

Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

Great job. I can't wait for your DIY on removing the back seat and side panels. I have some Dynamat waiting for your help!

 

Awesome job on the DIY. When running screws through the car remember to use common sense and check to see what is on the other side. If you can't see whats on the other side, and you have no other options use a screw that is just barely long enough to go through 1/8" of metal. Gas tanks are NEVER mounted directly to the underside of the car. If you ever drill through a gas tank your screw is WAY too long. Also, keep in mind it is next to impossible to blow a car up by screwing through the gas tank. One last thing, next time you see a fuse and have a DMM with you check the resistance of it. If it's over 0.1 ohms throw it away. Two fuses inline (assuming quality fuse holders like shown in the pics here) will not create enough resistance to make any difference in the voltage to at the amps.


Kevin
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04 Diamond Graphite Coupe - FULLY loaded
Windows up with OEM Remote
RE Short Shifter // Z Tube

 

Eurog35,

They make special crimpers for heavier gauges. The cheapest way is an impact route, which involves buying a special crimping tool that you hit with a hammer. Snap-on also sells heavy duty crimpers that will crimp the big stuff. I personally like to use a bench mounted vice, but this can be difficult if you run the wires first! In a vice you can make sure you get a nice solid crimp and it involves little strain on your part.

For the smaller stuff I recomend NOT using a combo stripper/crimper set. The problem with them is that usually the crimpers are on the handle side of the crimper, before the joint. This setup does not provide for optimal leverage on the connector and will end up bending the tool over time. Sears, and other hardware stores, sell crimpers that crimp after the joint, which is a lot easier and crimps a lot better imho. When using crimps in an audio/automobile environment make sure you use the right size for the wire you are using and make sure you pull on each connnector lightly after you crimp it to make sure it is secure. Any other questions PM me!


Kevin
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04 Diamond Graphite Coupe - FULLY loaded
Windows up with OEM Remote
RE Short Shifter // Z Tube

 

Kpierson,

That was very well said and very true....especially about the crimpers....

I should have mentioned that I used two sets of crimper/stripper combos...
One with the crimpers before the joint because the strippers are much sharper than the ones with the crimpers after the joint but then again the one with the crimpers after the joint are easy to crimp with because the crimp is infront.

So all in all its best to have both ....when doing the speaker wires I used the Really Good stripping tool that holds the wire and actually strips it then pulls the housing off for you...

I will be doing my Coupe rear seat, side panels, rear deck removal this coming weekend...granted the weather is good...
So give me about 7 days fellas!!



Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

kpierson, nyc35, thanks for the help guys... im learning alot...

nyc35 are you gonna add a section on how to remove the door panels in your next DIY as well? that would complete everything, that way for those of you who want to install component sets can actually follow the guide...

 

Ah ha.....funny I should read this now because guess what I did tonight.....THATS RIGHT!!! The rear seat,side panel, rear deck, 6x9 removal!!!!

Will be posting right now!!!



Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

The REAL finished product...I'm happy with it...



Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

241171-Total finished system_G35 coupe.jpg

 

You're alternator whine is most likely coming from having your amp ground hooked directly to your capacitor. I can speak from experience in my last car that I had my amp grounded the exact same way as you do at first, but then after reading on the internet to change the ground I got rid of the whine. Just try taking the amp ground off the cap and finding a spot with good chassis contact away from the cap and see if that does it.

Best ET: 14.730 @ 96.14mph
2003 Black 5AT sedan
My car

 

Thanks for the insight Shotchaz, I'll try that this weekend and see if that does it.....will report back and let you and everyone else know...

If it works then I'll ask one of the Mods to mod my DIY with a new pic ....for a "whine-less" audio set up...

Will let ya know how it goes....either way!


Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

I just de-whined my car. If you have a ground loop isolator, it will help you determine where the actual loop is. I found that my loop was not between the LOC and the EQ, but between the EQ and the amp. The isolator seems to degrade the sound quality a lot though, I wanted to solve it right.

I knew from my last car that some of it is just luck. I started moving the amp ground around. Found the amp was happiest with a longer ground wire running to the right side of the car. Then I experimented with the EQ. It was happier where the old amp wire was. That eliminated most of it. But I wanted it gone.

What I did was left the car running, turned the music down to 0 but turned the gain all the way up. Doing that made the whine as loud as possible so I could hear it back there as I experimented, so it's easier to determine what affects it. Found that RCAs running near the power cables really is a huge deal even for just a short run. The LOC itself was also somewhat sensitive to beoing around ground or power wires.

Another thing I found was that having both the front and rear channels connected to the output of the EQ quadroupled the level of the whine on all speakers. I decided to hook the isolator up to the rear speakers, since I'm not nearly as concened with the quality of those. I'll eventually try some more re-organization to get rid of it, but its all working much better now.

 

Shortchaz,

That didn't do it...moved the ground to different location and even shut one amp down....whine still there...

So maybe that worked 4 U.....but was a no go on my coupe...
Still in seach of a cure???
If i can find that out it will complete my DIY....so keep the ideas coming guys!

Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

Seems like its crazy glued to the system....huh?....

Dont get me wrong...its not something I cant live with to me its not THAT bad..its low and with stereo on you cant really hear it anway...it doesn't go up and down with volume adjustments (for those that dont know)....

Hmm I switched the grounds around and it basically stayed the same....seems like its a trial and error thing....
wish we had some SUPER INSTALL person to come in and say ...Do this, this and this and its gone

I must say the onyl system U put in that didnt have it was when I bought an aftermarket radio that had RCA pre-AMP outs built in ....I did the exact same wiring...and poof!, NO whine... My cars that I have used the factory HU and a LLC, have all had it...

If my choice is dump the BOSE radio, steering wheel controls and buy a double din dash plus radio and CD changer....F- that, I'll just live in ALT-Whine city...and turn up my radio !



Lexus for my luxury and G35 Coupe for my speed. I must say...Life is not always a B!TCH

 

At least with a Ven4 LOC - the output from the HU is clean. No whine whatsoever when I connect directly to an amp.

Try bypassing your EQ and see if you get whine. You need to determine where the problem is first before you can solve it.

Also, looking at your install pics, I noticed you have the power wires of one amp real close to the RCA's of the amp that's next to it. You may try turning the amp around to get the power wires away from the other amp's RCA's.

Whine is a very common problem, even without a LOC. You're not going to find a definitive answer for correcting it. While there are general guidelines, there is no definitive recipe for eliminating it. It takes experimentation. I solved mine in a couple hours.

-- Rob

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by djrobx on 05/01/04 01:30 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

OK, may have found something. Is that wire you are using for your remote a constant 12volt source when the car is on? I have the ESM and found the actual remote wire that the BOSE amp uses. On the connector into the amp it is number 9 and marks the color as G/W so I would think that is a green wire with a white stripe, if I had the BOSE I would go out and check it with a voltmeter to be sure. The constant 12volt source can also put extra noise through the system which I had on this car until I used the remote wire from my aftermarket HU. If you need more specifics on the location of the wire let me know and I'll get you the page.

Best ET: 14.730 @ 96.14mph
2003 Black 5AT sedan
My car